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Torx

bmccaffrey

bmccaffrey

New member
Anyone know the size of Torx on floor boards for F3 Limited.

And is there a better choice to put in there than a torx bolt.
TIA
 
Rattlebars said:
Desperately hating Torx. I am on a mission to eliminate all Torx (star) screws on my F3. I am using m5 x .8 x 20mm stainless black oxide pan head phillips screws. I got them on Amazon but you might be able to find them elsewhere. I bought 50 of them for $13 on Amazon.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F31V3ZM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

View attachment 177291
Click to expand...

To each his own, but a torx head is a more positive connection as far as tool to screw than a Philips head!! I find that they strip easyer! Just my two cents:dontknow: Now if you are trying to loosen a Allen head screw with a torx bit well that don't work so well!!! That has been some thing that's driven me nuts with BRP, mixing up all these fasteners threw out the bike! Allen, torx ,Philips, keep them the same for god sake!!
 
Mikey said:
To each his own, but a torx head is a more positive connection as far as tool to screw than a Philips head!! I find that they strip easyer! Just my two cents:dontknow: Now if you are trying to loosen a Allen head screw with a torx bit well that don't work so well!!! That has been some thing that's driven me nuts with BRP, mixing up all these fasteners threw out the bike! Allen, torx ,Philips, keep them the same for god sake!!
Click to expand...

They are not thinking about the end user, only what works on the assembly line.
 
Torx is to Hex (Allen) what Phillips is to Flat Blade.

When you consider that the ultimate purpose of a machined bolt or screw head is to resist stripping and transfer as much torque energy to the fastener as possible. The undisputed fact is that Torx is superior in every way to a Hex or Allen head. Personal preference aside. It's just a matter of physics. One of the issues I've seen many times is someone using an Allen wrench on a Torx. Or vise-versa. This will definitely give you grief. But this is not the fault of the design.

Here is a short article which outlines the benefits of the Torx. I don't have a dog in this race. And I am all for each person using what they prefer. After all, it is your ride. But go into it with all the facts.

http://rtstools.com/why-torx-bolts-are-better-than-hex-bolts/
 
Last edited:
Too many can't figure out Torx or Allen heads. That's why they strip them out. Torx and Allen work great. Put your glasses on and look at the differences.
 
Mikey said:
To each his own, but a torx head is a more positive connection as far as tool to screw than a Philips head!! I find that they strip easyer! Just my two cents:dontknow: Now if you are trying to loosen a Allen head screw with a torx bit well that don't work so well!!! That has been some thing that's driven me nuts with BRP, mixing up all these fasteners threw out the bike! Allen, torx ,Philips, keep them the same for god sake!!
Click to expand...

If your assumption is that I'm using the wrong tool, I'm not. I agree that the inconsistent application by BRP is... well... Thanks for the basic elementary but unnecessary education. If the torx they used would react to a magnet, I would have left them. However, they don't because they are made of some alien alloy. I use an impact driver to work on my bikes and never have a problem. But after dropping several alien torx into the bowels of the Spyder I made the change. They are M5 x .8. After 30 years in the auto industry... Anyway. putting torx that is immune to magnetism IN A RECESS is less than ideal, by polite verbiage. Engineers should be forced to use what they design 10 times daily for a year before the design becomes final. The mudguard on the rear of the F3T is a good example of insanity. The only thing a torx bit is good for is to get a stripped allen head out.
 
BajaRon said:
Torx is to Hex (Allen) what Phillips is to Flat Blade.

When you consider that the ultimate purpose of a machined bolt or screw head is to resist stripping and transfer as much torque energy to the fastener as possible. The undisputed fact is that Torx is superior in every way to a Hex or Allen head. Personal preference aside. It's just a matter of physics. One of the issues I've seen many times is someone using an Allen wrench on a Torx. Or vise-versa. This will definitely give you grief. But this is not the fault of the design.

Here is a short article which outlines the benefits of the Torx. I don't have a dog in this race. And I am all for each person using what they prefer. After all, it is your ride. But go into it with all the facts.

http://rtstools.com/why-torx-bolts-are-better-than-hex-bolts/
Click to expand...

The bolts I replace are low torque. Again, no magnet will hold the ones on the body panels. I often wonder what magical device the assembler use on the line.
 
Rattlebars said:
If your assumption is that I'm using the wrong tool, I'm not. I agree that the inconsistent application by BRP is... well... Thanks for the basic elementary but unnecessary education. If the torx they used would react to a magnet, I would have left them. However, they don't because they are made of some alien alloy. I use an impact driver to work on my bikes and never have a problem. But after dropping several alien torx into the bowels of the Spyder I made the change. They are M5 x .8. After 30 years in the auto industry... Anyway. putting torx that is immune to magnetism IN A RECESS is less than ideal, by polite verbiage. Engineers should be forced to use what they design 10 times daily for a year before the design becomes final. The mudguard on the rear of the F3T is a good example of insanity. The only thing a torx bit is good for is to get a stripped allen head out.
Click to expand...

:agree: ….. However there is reason they do this ….. If you need a T30 Torx bolt ….. where do you get it …. from a dealer that sells OEM bolts ….. How much do you pay for it ???? …. $3 - $4 - $5 ( I've never bought any ) … What do you think BRP paid for it $ .03 - $.04 - $.05 ….. Now you know why they don't care how many you lose !!!! :banghead:...………….. Mike :ohyea:
 
Rattlebars said:
The bolts I replace are low torque. Again, no magnet will hold the ones on the body panels. I often wonder what magical device the assembler use on the line.
Click to expand...

I agree that mixing up the drive tools needed is not good engineering. I always wonder if low bid gets the nod more than it should. I also agree that Torx, though superior in the ways mentioned, is not necessary in low torque applications. Using a non-ferrous metal keeps rust out of the picture. This may be a reason for the bolts used by BRP.
 
Rattlebars said:
If your assumption is that I'm using the wrong tool, I'm not. I agree that the inconsistent application by BRP is... well... Thanks for the basic elementary but unnecessary education. If the torx they used would react to a magnet, I would have left them. However, they don't because they are made of some alien alloy. I use an impact driver to work on my bikes and never have a problem. But after dropping several alien torx into the bowels of the Spyder I made the change. They are M5 x .8. After 30 years in the auto industry... Anyway. putting torx that is immune to magnetism IN A RECESS is less than ideal, by polite verbiage. Engineers should be forced to use what they design 10 times daily for a year before the design becomes final. The mudguard on the rear of the F3T is a good example of insanity. The only thing a torx bit is good for is to get a stripped allen head out.
Click to expand...

Like I said, to each his own:bowdown:
 
Quote "Using a non-ferrous metal keeps rust out of the picture. This may be a reason for the bolts used by BRP." Remember this is a "snow sled" with wheels. Got to watch out for rust in all that wet out doors snow.
 
You can buy a whole set of Torx Bits for about $10 or a set of Torx Sockets for $15. Why would anybody buy just one Torx tool? You gonna need a different size one day next week.

spyder-gasmonkey-01.JPG
 
When dealing with brand new "Lok-tited" bolts and screws its always nice to have a new Torx bit to grip better. I found a 2 pack of Torx 30 bits at Lowes the other day for a little more than $3.

I'll keep one in the tool kit on the RT and add the other to the tool chest. It also seems that the more I wrench on these things, most of the bolts don't really have to be as tight as they tend get wrenched on by techs at the dealerships... or even the oil drain plugs on the car for that matter. Usually snug is good!IMG_0601[1].jpg
 
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