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Torq. spec. of front mainshaft pulley bolt??

Mad Mac

New member
Decided I wanted to check the front pulley bolt(s) on my '14 RTL since it now has 19k on it and getting ready for a trip and was trying to find the specs. in the Green Man. last night and for the life of me, can't find it. I've looked in the engine, gearbox and drive sections and all the exploded views, nothing. The only sect. I found the pulley was in the parts break-down view but no torq. specs. Any ideas? Mac:dontknow:
 
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Not sure....

Can tell you on the 2012 RS pulley with flywheel the torque spec is 92 ft lb's. You can also check to see the bolt ID so if it is a M14 X 1.50 and 10.9 grade the max torque is 125 ft lb. Hope someone with a Triple manual can chime in....:thumbup:
 
110ft/lbs

Can tell you on the 2012 RS pulley with flywheel the torque spec is 92 ft lb's. You can also check to see the bolt ID so if it is a M14 X 1.50 and 10.9 grade the max torque is 125 ft lb. Hope someone with a Triple manual can chime in....:thumbup:

There was a service bulletin about this back on the VTwins, the torques is the same on the triples. They raised the torque from 95 to 110 due to bolts getting loosened.
 
Can tell you on the 2012 RS pulley with flywheel the torque spec is 92 ft lb's. You can also check to see the bolt ID so if it is a M14 X 1.50 and 10.9 grade the max torque is 125 ft lb. Hope someone with a Triple manual can chime in....:thumbup:
The Exploded parts view shows it as a M12x65 and the pulley/sprocket shows 4ea. addition bolts that hold the two halves together, so I wanted to check those also but says "not available"(must come assembled?). Thanks for the reply.:thumbup: Mac
 
There was a service bulletin about this back on the VTwins, the torques is the same on the triples. They raised the torque from 95 to 110 due to bolts getting loosened.
I'm going to use 110ftlbs. and hopefully not snap the darn thing off, because I might need to crack open that bottle of "Jack" that has been sitting in my cabinet for the last 12yrs., if that happens!!:roflblack::roflblack: Thanks for the reply also. Mac:doorag:
 
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DO NOT re-torque the drive sprocket bolt.

You can check if its loose easy enough but do not move the bolt. You will break loose the loc-tight compound. If its loose, you need a new bolt. The torque spec is WITH the new dry compound in place. Its a one use bolt.
 
DO NOT re-torque the drive sprocket bolt.

You can check if its loose easy enough but do not move the bolt. You will break loose the loc-tight compound. If its loose, you need a new bolt. The torque spec is WITH the new dry compound in place. Its a one use bolt.

Thank you, jc. That's a keeper nugget. I couldn't find the torque spec either.
 
Interesting....🤔

The Exploded parts view shows it as a M12x65 and the pulley/sprocket shows 4ea. addition bolts that hold the two halves together, so I wanted to check those also but says "not available"(must come assembled?). Thanks for the reply.:thumbup: Mac


If it is an M12 (65 would be the length) the torque on the highest grade of 12.9 is only 94 ft lb's grade 10.9 is 77 ft lb's but some one with a shop manual can verify this . My data is from the Tightening Torque page. The manual states that the 2008-9 and first production 2010 torque spec is 81 ft lb's second production 2010 on torque spec is 92 ft lb's. Parts list does show it to be an M12 for the twin and the tripple but the one I took out of mine and the replacement I put in with the new washer and pulley assembly is an M14.....:dontknow: you may snap a M12 at that torque...:dontknow:

by the way the 6 bolts that hold the flywheel to the pulley are torqued 18 ft lb's in a 1,3,5,2,4,6 pattern...
 
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The Green Manual is incomplete and does not list that info and more. Been there and done that.

According to my dealer, the spec is, 96 lbft.

Per the info, the bolt is one time use, and if your 14 does not have the latest upgraded bolt I recommend you install it.

On Finless Bobs FB group I posted a dialogue with photos of the task on our 2014 RTS.
 
DO NOT re-torque the drive sprocket bolt.

You can check if its loose easy enough but do not move the bolt. You will break loose the loc-tight compound. If its loose, you need a new bolt. The torque spec is WITH the new dry compound in place. Its a one use bolt.
I did notice after looking at the parts list that the bolt had locktite on the threads, so I just inspected it and could not find any looseness and my belt tracts fine. So in my opinion it's GTG. Thanks for the warning JC. Mac:thumbup:
 
The Green Manual is incomplete and does not list that info and more. Been there and done that.

According to my dealer, the spec is, 96 lbft.

Per the info, the bolt is one time use, and if your 14 does not have the latest upgraded bolt I recommend you install it.

On Finless Bobs FB group I posted a dialogue with photos of the task on our 2014 RTS.
Too bad that for the amount of money you pay, it's incomplete. OH well!! Thanks for warning me on this, was not aware. Mac:banghead:
 
Too bad that for the amount of money you pay, it's incomplete. OH well!! Thanks for warning me on this, was not aware. Mac:banghead:

Did you remove the pulley from the shaft? If so did you find the splines had been lubricated from original assembly? Our 14 RTS had no wear, the bolt was secure and all the splines were lubed.

I cleaned everything, inspected all the splines both on the shaft and pulley bore for wear. None was found. Lubricated the splines, added corrosion inhibiting compound as applicable and assembled with a new updated bolt. For added measure, I also added a hole to the bolt head and locwired the bolt after torquing to specs.

Next inspection will be at 28k miles when the gearbox filter is replaced.
 
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Did you remove the pulley from the shaft? If so did you find the splines had been lubricated from original assembly? Our 14 RTS had no wear, the bolt was secure and all tne splines were lubed.

I cleaned everything, inspected all the splines both on the shaft and pulley bore for wear. Non was found. Lubricated the splines, added corrosion inhibiting compound as applicable and assembled with a new updated bolt. For added measure, I also added a hole to the bolt head and locwired the bolt after torquing to specs.

Next inspection will be at 28k miles when the gearbox filter is replaced.
I took the easy way out. I loosened the belt, pulled the panels, and just felt for end play and if I could "wiggle" it. All was tight and no evidence of rusty powder/dust on the pulley/sprocket. I would have removed and replaced it if I had a new bolt and even thought about removing it and reapplying loc-tite to it, but I was advised not to. Not the way I like to "fix" things. This machine has got to be the most "quirky" recreational vehicle I've had to maintain in all my years of dragging around a tool box. But all seems fine so, if it ain't broke, don't fix it! Macnojoke
 
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