Top Front Shock bolts??

[BajaRon]

Often yes, but it seems he is leaving the tape in place between the nut and frame. Forgot how I accessed mine, but I reinstalled the bolts with heads forward as oem was. Certainly made installing the nuts easier and was able to tighten the nut vs spinning the bolt. Do know the Spyder had weight on wheels when tightened.

Yes, the tape stays. But it is very soft. It will crush and you can still turn the nut easily. It's just a temporary aid that really makes no difference after it does the initial job.

Of course, any way that works for you is great. I tried this install many different ways and found this to be the best for me. That's the only reason I recommend it.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

I was hoping a BajaRon would respond as his method is great!

 

[fulltimer]

You shouldn't have to take the frunk off!! :lecturef_smilie: IIRC, getting that top bolt off and out isn't really all that hard; it's getting it back IN & DONE UP that's the trick! :shocked: And to do that, it's easiest if you put the bolt in 'the other way' - but it's been waay too long and I can't remember which way that is!! :gaah:

Still, there are a few people here in the know who might help?! :clap: IIRC, BajaRon had a pretty good set of instructions re that top bolt that go with his 'pre-load adjusters' hyea: & there are other members here who've had those bolts out & back in again probably more times than I've had hot dinners!! So hopefully, one of them will post up..... but you certainly don't need to take the frunk off - unless you want to, of course! :thumbup:

Been there, done that, twice. I put Elkas on my 13 STL and the front end looks much the same. As others have said, take the weight off the wheel, the bolt comes out fairly easy if you don't have huge hands and put the bolt back in from the opposite direction. Not hard at all. Would suggest you send the wife to the store as getting that nut back ON can create a little tension:banghead:.

 

[P.W.]

Again thanks to all for your time and help with my question!
Now I just have to tell the wife my idea about new shocks and see what happens.....LOL

 

[fulltimer]

Again thanks to all for your time and help with my question!
Now I just have to tell the wife my idea about new shocks and see what happens.....LOL

Does she ryde with you? In my case, the ryde had gotten so bad my wife was pushing me to get "something better". No argument when it came time to buy.

 

[RICZ]

While y'all are on the subject of shocks, I have a couple questions.
I want to raise the front of my F3L a bit and I read here that tightening the shock springs will do that.
1. Is this a good thing to do? I know it will firm up the ride and I am OK with that.
2. If it's OK, what size are the spanners?
3. How many turn of the rings are recommended?
TIA

 

[PMK]

Yes, the tape stays. But it is very soft. It will crush and you can still turn the nut easily. It's just a temporary aid that really makes no difference after it does the initial job.

Of course, any way that works for you is great. I tried this install many different ways and found this to be the best for me. That's the only reason I recommend it.

It certainly works to hold the nut. Guess I am too old school and tape the nut or use putty to hold the nut in the wrench. When the wrench is removed, the tape or putty comes with it.

 

[P.W.]

Does she ryde with you? In my case, the ryde had gotten so bad my wife was pushing me to get "something better". No argument when it came time to buy.

I have a GREAT wife and yes she loves to ride with.
I just drive her nuts with my never ending mods to make things better.....But I love to tinker.....in the end she always goes along with what ever I want.
FYI....and she gets what she wants also.

 

[h0gr1der]

While y'all are on the subject of shocks, I have a couple questions.
I want to raise the front of my F3L a bit and I read here that tightening the shock springs will do that.
1. Is this a good thing to do? I know it will firm up the ride and I am OK with that.
2. If it's OK, what size are the spanners?
3. How many turn of the rings are recommended?
TIA

Mr RICZ,
Not an F3 guy, but front ends are front ends. If you raise the front end significantly it will change the toe in to a more toed-in position (I think I'm remembering this correctly). A small amount is OK, but if you go a lot you may need an alignment. Raising the frame is exactly what preloaders are for, to set ride height. I used mine to offset the load that resides permanently in my frunk.

 

[RICZ]

Mr RICZ,
Not an F3 guy, but front ends are front ends. If you raise the front end significantly it will change the toe in to a more toed-in position (I think I'm remembering this correctly). A small amount is OK, but if you go a lot you may need an alignment. Raising the frame is exactly what preloaders are for, to set ride height. I used mine to offset the load that resides permanently in my frunk.

From what you say, changing to other shocks would necessitate an alignment as well. Correct?

 

[Peter Aawen]

From what you say, changing to other shocks would necessitate an alignment as well. Correct?

Not unless you change your static ride height when you fit the different shocks! And most alternative/replacement shocks should at least be pretty close to the standard/specified ride height or they might not fit into the gap & total range of suspension travel :shocked:

If your ride height doesn't change, your wheel alignment shouldn't change.... just like fitting an a/mkt sway bar shouldn't change your wheel alignment cos it hasn't (or shouldn't anyway!) change your Spyder/Ryker's ride height! :thumbup:

 

[RICZ]

Thanks guys for the advice. I'm a babe in the woods where three wheels are concerned. I have many decades of two and four wheel experience, but three...meh! That's why I'm here on the forum, to absorb the three wheel wisdom that's tossed about. You guys are great mentors. Thanks.

 

[h0gr1der]

Not unless you change your static ride height when you fit the different shocks! And most alternative/replacement shocks should at least be pretty close to the standard/specified ride height or they might not fit into the gap & total range of suspension travel :shocked:

If your ride height doesn't change, your wheel alignment shouldn't change.... just like fitting an a/mkt sway bar shouldn't change your wheel alignment cos it hasn't (or shouldn't anyway!) change your Spyder/Ryker's ride height! :thumbup:

:agree:
What he said!