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To Oil Change or Not To Oil Change

mpapatonis

New member
Hi Everyone,

Hope that it's been a good riding year for all. I will be storing my 2010 RT-S in about a month. I'm just about at 5000 miles since my last oil change (which is normally how long I go). I'm looking for some feedback on storing the trike. Should I:

1. Change the oil now, ride for a month, store for winter
2. Keep riding, change the oil just before storing
3. Keep riding, store for winter, change the oil next year when I break it out in spring

As always, thanks in advance.
 
Hi Everyone,

Hope that it's been a good riding year for all. I will be storing my 2010 RT-S in about a month. I'm just about at 5000 miles since my last oil change (which is normally how long I go). I'm looking for some feedback on storing the trike. Should I:

1. Change the oil now, ride for a month, store for winter
2. Keep riding, change the oil just before storing
3. Keep riding, store for winter, change the oil next year when I break it out in spring

As always, thanks in advance.

#3 absolutely not in my book. Get the condensation and acids out before storing.

#1 & #2, use the 10% rule. If your riding before storage is less than 10% , 500 miles, ride it, oil change, then store. More than 10%, change just the oil and refer to #3.

My thoughts, but see how others see it.

PK
 
Change it now

My vote would be for option #1

Why would you want to drive around with oil that most likely has lost some of the viscosity and is also contaminated from normal use? It will just cause premature wear.
 
If I change the oil now or just before storing, do I need to change it again in the spring or will it be ok, since I'm not running the trike during storage?
 
Changing it at the end of the Season, and again at the start of next Season... innecessary!
One; or the other; not both. I'd change at the beginning of the Season, and It'll be ready for some serious riding! :2thumbs:
 
If not riding more than 500 to 1000 miles before storage, I would ride it, change the oil, and then store it. Probably no big deal if you change it now, ride 500 miles and store it ( no need to change again in the spring). What you want to avoid is storing with dirty, contaminated oil.
 
Change before storage. Especially with 5K on the old oil. Contaminants in the old oil will settle out to the bottom of the crankcase. They can be pretty corrosive.
 
You're running on very thin oil now; be assured the viscosity has sheared down to 20W or less. I'd siphon a quart out and top off with fresh oil, then do the full oil and filters change when you store it. You might have a warm fall and ride longer than you expect.:)
 
#3 absolutely not in my book. Get the condensation and acids out before storing.

#1 & #2, use the 10% rule. If your riding before storage is less than 10% , 500 miles, ride it, oil change, then store. More than 10%, change just the oil and refer to #3.

My thoughts, but see how others see it.

PK

WHAT DID I JUST READ!:gaah::hun:
 
Changing it at the end of the Season, and again at the start of next Season... innecessary!
One; or the other; not both. I'd change at the beginning of the Season, and It'll be ready for some serious riding! :2thumbs:
:agree:With Bob! I asked this same question when I first bought the Spyder and a very smart man, with lots of MC experience,who is no longer posting (NancysToys)said the samething! Especially with the new oils these days, I do this with all my summer vehicles and never had an issue. Changing right before storage and then before riding in the spring, in my opinion is both unnecessary and expensive!But to each their own!
 
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:agree:With Bob! I asked this same question when I first bought the Spyder and a very smart man, with lots of MC experience,who is no longer posting (doc)said the samething! Especially with the new oils these days, I do this with all my summer vehicles and never had an issue. Changing right before storage and then before riding in the spring, in my opinion is both unnecessary and expensive!But to each their own!


AGREE!!!!!!:thumbup:
 
Not that I do not value your input Bob, I do! But we all know the experience that NancysToys has, so his advice is like gold!:thumbup::thumbup:My bad, but I meant NancysToys, which I am sure you figured by now!;)
 
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Depends..!

how much you ryde a month. Agree with Ron change it now you will be tapering down anyway...:thumbup:
 
WHAT DID I JUST READ!:gaah::hun:

In easy to follow simple terms...The original post had a choice of three numbered items. 1, 2, and 3.

From the original post.

1. Change the oil now, ride for a month, store for winter
2. Keep riding, change the oil just before storing
3. Keep riding, store for winter, change the oil next year when I break it out in spring


My reply was, based on the original post 3 items. In my experience and opinion.

#3 absolutely not in my book. Get the condensation and acids out before storing.

#1 & #2, use the 10% rule. If your riding before storage is less than 10% , 500 miles, ride it, oil change, then store. More than 10%, change just the oil and refer to #3.



Used oil holds moisture and acids, not good for an inactive engine or gearbox. Storing in this condition is not best.

If the original post person opts to continue riding, an amount of 10% more than his 5000 change interval will be easily handled. So a change of oil and filter at 5500 should be a non issue. In theory, he could ride this fall, not exceed approx 5500 on the oil and change before storage. Cost effective and best for the engine and gearbox.

If the op, plans to ride a lot in the fall months, then he should change the oil and filter now. Then repeat the oil and filter change for storage in my opinion.

Can the OP store it with low mile oil and filter, certainly, it is his machine. Is it best, no. If this were my machine, and stored with used oil, I would without doubt, run the engine several times during storage to prevent or minimize chances of pitted bearings, cam concerns, and ring marks on the cylinders.

If the op does his own work, the cost is minimal for best results. Overal though, however each person decides is their own choice.

Consider also, unless the engine has one cylinder, at least one other cylinder has the valves or a valve open to the ambient conditions.

PK
 
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