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to CANbus or not to CANbus
- Thread starter aka1004
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IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Don't bother with the CANbus version. Spyder headlights have no connection to the CANbus. CANbus is a communication system between components like the VSS and ECM. The headlights are not CANbus smart and do not communicate with any of the CANbus connected modules.
Thank you for the info and how about those warning light eliminator? Vendors sell them for $10-20, something like this https://www.xenonhids.com/warning-cancellers-capacitors.html
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Good question. I believe there have been problems reported when using non-BRP HID kits on a Spyder. Do a Google search (the forum search won't accept less than 4 letter words) on this forum using something like this "hid headlight problem site:spyderlovers.com". The warning light eliminator may solve the problem. Order them with the lights but don't use them. If you have problems then put them in, otherwise send them back.
Not sure what year OP's rig is but I just put HID's in my '14 RT-L. No issues and I'm very happy with the results. I didn't use any warning eliminators. Typically those are used to eliminate errors from systems that send a pulse to determine if a bulb is burnt out or not, Spyder doesn't do this and hence doesn't need them.
As previously noted, Spyder headlights don't interact with CANBUS.
I highly recommend using a quality set of HID's. Check out theretrofitsource.com, I've been using them for years and their stuff is fantastic, highly recommend the Morimoto branded stuff. I've used many sets as well as OEM ballasts/bulbs and found Morimoto to be on par with the OEM brands.
I'd recommend avoiding the cheap Chinese junk brands, such as DDM Tuning, like the plague. Those cheap sets are prone to all kinds of issues being that they're cheap and poorly made. The bulbs put off very poor quality light as well, those super blue tinted bulbs you see on the road are the cheap ones. Quality bulbs have so much better light and color rendering, totally worth the extra bit of cost for quality.
Good luck with the upgrade, you'll love it when it's done.
As previously noted, Spyder headlights don't interact with CANBUS.
I highly recommend using a quality set of HID's. Check out theretrofitsource.com, I've been using them for years and their stuff is fantastic, highly recommend the Morimoto branded stuff. I've used many sets as well as OEM ballasts/bulbs and found Morimoto to be on par with the OEM brands.
I'd recommend avoiding the cheap Chinese junk brands, such as DDM Tuning, like the plague. Those cheap sets are prone to all kinds of issues being that they're cheap and poorly made. The bulbs put off very poor quality light as well, those super blue tinted bulbs you see on the road are the cheap ones. Quality bulbs have so much better light and color rendering, totally worth the extra bit of cost for quality.
Good luck with the upgrade, you'll love it when it's done.
thank you. $150 for set is price I don't mind paying. I would pay for higher end HID if it doesn't cause any problem but it seems price of HID has come down quite a bit since I had my last Spyder.
I had no intention of using cheap HID.
which color did you use? I like 6000k but its either 5500 or 6500. I like whitest white with just little hint of blue and my old 6000k seemed to have just the right color.
I'd go 6500K if you're looking at the Morimoto bulbs. I like the same type of light as you, mostly white with just a touch of blue, the 6500K worked great for me. I've used 5500K in other conversions and it's more a pure white.
Your budget is right on the mark, it'll allow you to get some great stuff without overpaying.
Your budget is right on the mark, it'll allow you to get some great stuff without overpaying.
r1100rider
New member
Not sure how you figure that the lights are not part of the canbus system, I put hid lights on and had limp mode problems had to wrap the ballasts in foil and put a relay to delay the lights from turning on to fix
$150 price mark was after Ive been to their website. ��
It sure looks like price of HID went down and hopefully quality got better too.
If I only can find a way to fit a Yoshimura pipe on a 15 RS now ...
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IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
The interference wasn't caused by a direct interface between the HID bulbs and ballast and the CANbus because there isn't any. As is the case with any direct current electronic device that needs to increase or decrease voltage it is usually done by a switching circuit, i.e., the electricity is turned off and on. The switching generates electromagnetic radiation, i.e., radio waves. Think Marconi and the invention of radio. If the radiation is strong enough and just the right frequency it can cause interference with any system that is sensitive to picking up stray radio waves. One or more of the processors on the Spyder fall into that category. The wiring connected to them acts like an antenna and feeds the RF into the processor. That is why your HID caused the limp mode, and the same reason some LED lights are causing problems with radio reception.
In the world of auditoriums, churches, and such, some LED systems are known to cause interference with wireless microphones.
The radio unit on the RT has a 12 volt output to power a GPS. I tried using a USB power adapter on that circuit one time with the 2013 RT I had. The RF noise generated by the USB adapter was fed directly into the radio via the 12 volt power line and was strong enough it trashed the radio reception completely.
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IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
If by any chance you might some day decide to install a headlight modulator, they won't work with HID.
r1100rider
New member
Ok then why if I left the headlites or taillites disconnected did it cause a limp mode if the canbus is not connected to the lights
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Did you have the hid ballast connected when the headlights were disconnected? If not, then what you are describing is a total mystery.
Looking at the wiring diagram for the 2014 RT the headlights and taillights are in circuits that go directly from the 12 volt power source through relays, bulbs, and shutter solenoids directly to ground. The headlight relay coils are grounded by the ECM. The high beam circuit has a connection to the indicator light in the cluster. The taillights, plate light, fender lights, and day lights are powered through the ignition switch. In all cases there is no wire connection between the light circuits and any CANbus connected processor, as least as is identified on the wiring diagram. The closest the two get together is the high beam indicator light in the cluster, the main headlight relay coil circuit going through the left mult-switch for high/low beam control, and the ground connection through the ECM for the high and low beam headlight relay coils.
Here's the diagram that shows what all is connected to the CANbus. As you can see there is nothing related to lights in the network.
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