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Tire Choices

Poking around the tire sites, I see that the Michelin Defender isn't available in 215/60R15 (the same size as my current General), nor in the stock size of 225/50R15. Best match to the Spyder seems to be 205/60R15.

The 215 has the happy result of making the speedometer match GPS indicated speed (i.e., more accurate). How does a 205 size tire affect the speedometer?

It's the second number that affects the speedometer. So the 215/60 and the 205/60 would be the same to the speedometer. The first number is how wide the tire is. The difference from 225 to 205 is 20mm (less than 1") I run the Michelin Premier A/S in the 205/60R15 and it been the best tire I have tried on the RT. 24,000 miles on the first one, but I was running to much pressure (24#} in it and it wore out the center . Now running 18# and current tire wearing more even - I expect I will get no less then 30,000 miles on this one.
 
TIRE SIZE VS. SPEEDOMETER

It's the second number that affects the speedometer. So the 215/60 and the 205/60 would be the same to the speedometer. The first number is how wide the tire is. The difference from 225 to 205 is 20mm (less than 1") I run the Michelin Premier A/S in the 205/60R15 and it been the best tire I have tried on the RT. 24,000 miles on the first one, but I was running to much pressure (24#} in it and it wore out the center . Now running 18# and current tire wearing more even - I expect I will get no less then 30,000 miles on this one.
Not exactly .... all the above numbers off the sidewall have a mathematical relationship to how far it will travel per rotation based on that number ..... The " 60 " you refer to is the aspect ratio ... which is combination of the width and the sidewall height .... a 275 /60 is going to be different than a 205/60 as far as rolling distance per rotation .... the difference between a 205 vs a 215 is going to be very, very small .....but it is different ...... Mike :thumbup:
 
Not exactly .... all the above numbers off the sidewall have a mathematical relationship to how far it will travel per rotation based on that number ..... The " 60 " you refer to is the aspect ratio ... which is combination of the width and the sidewall height .... a 275 /60 is going to be different than a 205/60 as far as rolling distance per rotation .... the difference between a 205 vs a 215 is going to be very, very small .....but it is different ...... Mike :thumbup:

Mike,

I sit corrected!

Les
 
I am about to put my 3rd tire on the rear. The last one I installed (Yokohama S Drive) I had our local Big O Tire dealer un-mount the factory Kenda and mount the new Yokohama, They could not balance it however since the spyder rim would not fit on their balancing machine, so I had to make a special trip to my Spyder dealer and they actually agreed to balance it for me ($20). I was surprised they did it with the non-Kenda tire on it, but they did and that worked out.

I have since moved and now just ordered my new tire from Discount Tire (Cooper CS5) and I know they will mount it for me but they are also guessing that they will not be able to balance it.
I don't like the idea of using tire balancing beads (but open to it) and I tried balancing the Yokohama myself by putting the tire on its axle between 2 jackstands and just spinning/re-spinning to find the heavy point, but that did not work well either.
Is everyone mounting their own tire also balancing it (or not) - and if balancing, curious on how you are doing it.

Many thanks


I may have started the Cooper tire thing, but I really like it and this will be my tire of choice in the future. Anyway, as to balancing, you can try an independent motorcycle repair shop or a dreaded Harley dealer, because some of the newer models of bikes have super fat rear tires and the Spyder rear wheel is essentially the same design. So if they have the right jigs, their balancing machines will work.
 
Based on my research of all the many tire threads here and comments from individuals on the forum who've I come to regard as very experienced or experts, i put the same tire on mine.:thumbup:[/QUOT The OEM (Kenda )was replaced at 5,284 miles. I went with the General Altimax RT43 because of the Spec's. It also has the "tire replacement "indicator built into the tire itself.

This is a great tire.

Go to" My albums" for pictures of the General Altimax RT43 tire.

Deanna
 
Status of wear

I have 7,877 miles on the rear General Altimax RT43 215/60R15. The tire started with 10/32 tread depth. I now have 8/32 depth and the tire is wearing exactly even across the tread. I am running 18#s psi. Assuming I will replace the tire when I get to 2/32 tread, that means I have used the tire for 25% of it's tread wear life. Giving me about 31,500 useful miles. I am more than happy If I get close to that. By contrast, I wore two OEM Kenda down to 0 tread depth (in the middle) in about 8K miles each. Not trying to start a tire longevity contest. Just showing the wear contrast between CTs and OEMs. And a bonus is the CT cost much less than the OEM.
 
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Rear tire

Looking at getting a new rear tire. I've seen the 2 sizes people are running, stock 225/50r15 or 215/60r15. I ride mostly 2 up and don't want the tire rubbing if using the 215. I'm about 270lbs plus the wife. I would like to know your opinions. If I go stock size I know it's either stock Kenda, Vee Rubber or Kuhmo Ecsta AST. I have a bunch of choices if I go to the 215. Thanks

I am running a Dunlop Direzza 205/55/15 Ultra High Performance Summer tireand it is incredible. Tire Rack for less than $100.00.
 
Based on my research of all the many tire threads here and comments from individuals on the forum who've I come to regard as very experienced or experts, i put the same tire on mine.:thumbup:[/QUOT The OEM (Kenda )was replaced at 5,284 miles. I went with the General Altimax RT43 because of the Spec's. It also has the "tire replacement "indicator built into the tire itself.

This is a great tire.

Go to" My albums" for pictures of the General Altimax RT43 tire.

Deanna

:thumbup: Your posts are highly regarded by me. Thanks
 
DUNLOP

I am running a Dunlop Direzza 205/55/15 Ultra High Performance Summer tireand it is incredible. Tire Rack for less than $100.00.
Actually it's only OK in the wet ..... there are 1/2 dozen tires that are better .......... But this is up there in performance ...... Please keep us posted on your experience with it ....... Mike :thumbup:
 
I have 7,877 miles on the rear General Altimax RT43 215/60R15. The tire started with 10/32 tread depth. I now have 8/32 depth and the tire is wearing exactly even across the tread. I am running 18#s psi. Assuming I will replace the tire when I get to 2/32 tread, that means I have used the tire for 25% of it's tread wear life. Giving me about 31,500 useful miles. I am more than happy If I get close to that. By contrast, I wore two OEM Kenda down to 0 tread depth (in the middle) in about 8K miles each. Not trying to start a tire longevity contest. Just showing the wear contrast between CTs and OEMs. And a bonus is the CT cost much less than the OEM.
This seems to be the consensus and it's what I have on both my RTs. The tire pressure issue is something I'm still conflicted about simply because there are two different sets of opinions, both sides represented by people whose opinions I value highly. So, I've compromised and run them at about 22#.
 
I am running a Dunlop Direzza 205/55/15 Ultra High Performance Summer tireand it is incredible. Tire Rack for less than $100.00.

Have looked at that tire. I'm running a Yokohama S drive at present. How stiff is the sidewall on the Dunlop tire? The Yokohama has a stiff side wall and like it. Makes it easy to mount.
David
 
This seems to be the consensus and it's what I have on both my RTs. The tire pressure issue is something I'm still conflicted about simply because there are two different sets of opinions, both sides represented by people whose opinions I value highly. So, I've compromised and run them at about 22#.

Yeah, I did the same, and for the same reasons, Pete......but then I realised that I was in the middle, and probably not getting the full benefits of either option, so I dropped mine to 19 (320lb Rider). Seat of the pants feeling is that I am more comfortable in corners than I was at 22psi, my tyre pressure is increasing by some 4psi when warmed up, and I have not experienced any downsides. I know that “seat of the pants” is not very scientific, but if you saw the size of my seat in my pants, there is plenty of room for credibility there;):D

Pete
 
Yeah, I did the same, and for the same reasons, Pete......but then I realised that I was in the middle, and probably not getting the full benefits of either option, so I dropped mine to 19 (320lb Rider). Seat of the pants feeling is that I am more comfortable in corners than I was at 22psi, my tyre pressure is increasing by some 4psi when warmed up, and I have not experienced any downsides. I know that “seat of the pants” is not very scientific, but if you saw the size of my seat in my pants, there is plenty of room for credibility there;):D Pete
I'll go with your seat of the pants then! Don't want to argue with that! :bowdown:
 
This seems to be the consensus and it's what I have on both my RTs. The tire pressure issue is something I'm still conflicted about simply because there are two different sets of opinions, both sides represented by people whose opinions I value highly. So, I've compromised and run them at about 22#.
I side with Mike on the question of pressure in the rear tire. Here's a pic of the General Altimax I took off this spring after 17,800 miles running at 23 to 25 psi. The center treads are worn much more than the outer treads.

General rear tire at take off.jpg

I'm running my current Cooper CS5 at 18 psi.
 
ALTIMAX -PIC

I side with Mike on the question of pressure in the rear tire. Here's a pic of the General Altimax I took off this spring after 17,800 miles running at 23 to 25 psi. The center treads are worn much more than the outer treads.

View attachment 162250

I'm running my current Cooper CS5 at 18 psi.
I don't like what I'm seeing in that wear pattern ..... I would be surprised to see center wear on any CAR tire .... 23 to 25 psi for a CAR tire is below ( for Spyder weight ) what it was designed to carry ( normally for a car )..... I have a suspicion the rear wheel is not well aligned, as this wear shown is more on the left ....as if it's SCRUBBING (?) .... I don't suppose you any pics of other rear tires you had ????? ............. or verbally what was their wear pattern ........ I hope Peter Aawen see's this pic ..... I value His opinion ........ Peter are you out there ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
I don't like what I'm seeing in that wear pattern ..... I would be surprised to see center wear on any CAR tire .... 23 to 25 psi for a CAR tire is below ( for Spyder weight ) what it was designed to carry ( normally for a car )..... I have a suspicion the rear wheel is not well aligned, as this wear shown is more on the left ....as if it's SCRUBBING (?) .... I don't suppose you any pics of other rear tires you had ????? ............. or verbally what was their wear pattern ........ I hope Peter Aawen see's this pic ..... I value His opinion ........ Peter are you out there ..... Mike :thumbup:
Here's a closer look at the left and right of the tread.

20180417_160527.jpg 20180417_160514.jpg

Here's a shot of the Kenda the General replaced. It had about 8400 miles on it. I ran it at about 25 psi, IIRC.

PA231922.jpg
 
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I don't like what I'm seeing in that wear pattern ..... I would be surprised to see center wear on any CAR tire .... 23 to 25 psi for a CAR tire is below ( for Spyder weight ) what it was designed to carry ( normally for a car )..... I have a suspicion the rear wheel is not well aligned, as this wear shown is more on the left ....as if it's SCRUBBING (?) ....*snip*....... Peter are you out there ..... Mike :thumbup:

Yeah, that wear pattern doesn't look great to me either Mike!! :shocked: I guess that it could be that dirt or dust is distorting the image & what we can see, but I'd think from looking at that image that tread depth measuring across the face of that tire would show that it HAS worn more in the middle & on one side (the left) than the other!! :sour: Running your hand up & down along the tread will probably also feel as though one edge of the rows of tread blocks has a raised & sharp edge; I'd guess most likely worse on the most worn side of the tire (but if the wear has progressed far enough, it might be all the way across the tread face! :p )

And IF that is the case, then you'd hafta think that it IS scrubbing & the pressure it has been running is a little too high for the load it's carrying & the way it's being ridden. ;)

Over to you lot, to do with as you will (or won't!:dontknow:) :thumbup:

Ps: another thought IMS, put a straight edge across the face of the tread at 90 degrees to the sidewalls - you shouldn't be able to see any gap between the straight edge & the middle of the tire tread.... if you can, the tire is definitely wearing too fast in the middle & that's suggesting you are either spinning it up at high revs waaayyy too often or the pressure you are running is a bit too high! :(,
 
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BETTER PICS

Here's a closer look at the left and right of the tread.

View attachment 162263 View attachment 162262

Here's a shot of the Kenda the General replaced. It had about 8400 miles on it. I ran it at about 25 psi, IIRC.

View attachment 162264
IMS, imho the split screen is larger - good , however it's harder to compare both sides of the tire - simultaneously .....the focus is ok , clean the tread area and just take a close -up of the entire width ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
IMS's tire pic

Yeah, that wear pattern doesn't look great to me either Mike!! :shocked: I guess that it could be that dirt or dust is distorting the image & what we can see, but I'd think from looking at that image that tread depth measuring across the face of that tire would show that it HAS worn more in the middle & on one side (the left) than the other!! :sour: Running your hand up & down along the tread will probably also feel as though one edge of the rows of tread blocks has a raised & sharp edge; I'd guess most likely worse on the most worn side of the tire (but if the wear has progressed far enough, it might be all the way across the tread face! :p )

And IF that is the case, then you'd hafta think that it IS scrubbing & the pressure it has been running is a little too high for the load it's carrying & the way it's being ridden. ;)

Over to you lot, to do with as you will (or won't!:dontknow:) :thumbup:

Ps: another thought IMS, put a straight edge across the face of the tread at 90 degrees to the sidewalls - you shouldn't be able to see any gap between the straight edge & the middle of the tire tread.... if you can, the tire is definitely wearing too fast in the middle & that's suggesting you are either spinning it up at high revs waaayyy too often or the pressure you are running is a bit too high! :(,
Peter, if it's " Scrubbing " ..... WHY , what's causing this ....my belt moves back and forth on the sprocket constantly .... And I don't have un-even wear ...it has been reported some engines weren't ALIGNED perfectly ...... Also too high a psi won't imho cause UN-EVEN tire wear - it would be the same across the footprint ....... Mike :thumbup:
 
Peter, if it's " Scrubbing " ..... WHY , what's causing this ....my belt moves back and forth on the sprocket constantly .... And I don't have un-even wear ...it has been reported some engines weren't ALIGNED perfectly ...... Also too high a psi won't imho cause UN-EVEN tire wear - it would be the same across the footprint ....... Mike :thumbup:
But if the rear tire is slightly off parallel with the bike frame doesn't the laser alignment process compensate for that? I thought after the laser alignment is completed the bike will track straight with respect to the three wheels but the bike frame might be slightly off parallel with respect to the line of travel.
 
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