Time for new Brake pads - should I spend the extra & get BRP pads?

[Blackie312001]

Hey Everyone….

Going to do my first brake pad change on my 2015 RTS. Should I spend the extra and get the BRP pads? If there are any other thoughts, tips, links, videos, etc. you can give me, that would be great.

Thx

 

[Lew L]

.

I suggest EBC pads from Bajaron or Lamonster. Great pads and great service. Support our forum providers.

https://www.lamonstergarage.com/hig...red-front-brake-pads-all-spyder-2013-present/

Lew L

 

[Mikey]

X2:agree:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

:agree: X's -3 :yes: .... BRP just charges more for their inferior product ..... same goes for their OIL & filter kits :roflblack: ....good luck ... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Bfromla]

Before getting started - Also get: some fresh Dot4 fluid, rags/towels, some brake cleaner, maybe some nitrile gloves. (First time can be messy) Ron’s instructions provided with pads simple & accurate.

Spyder rear caliper instructions from BajaRon

"Rear pad install
The rear caliper also serves as the parking brake the rear piston needs to be retracted as the fronts with a C-clamp. However, it is likely that it will not retract far enough to complete the install. You will see 2 holes in the top of this piston for inserting a tool. The rear piston must be turned CLOCKWISE to retract the parking brake system. It is best to clean the rubber piston boot before this step it may take a good deal of force to start the piston turning but should get easier once the piston begins to turn. Turn the piston until it bottoms out.”

 

[Mikey]

Before getting started - Also get: some fresh Dot4 fluid, rags/towels, some brake cleaner, maybe some nitrile gloves. (First time can be messy) Ron’s instructions provided with pads simple & accurate.

Spyder rear caliper instructions from BajaRon

"Rear pad install
The rear caliper also serves as the parking brake the rear piston needs to be retracted as the fronts with a C-clamp. However, it is likely that it will not retract far enough to complete the install. You will see 2 holes in the top of this piston for inserting a tool. The rear piston must be turned CLOCKWISE to retract the parking brake system. It is best to clean the rubber piston boot before this step it may take a good deal of force to start the piston turning but should get easier once the piston begins to turn. Turn the piston until it bottoms out.”

Ok now that you told him how to do the job, what pads would you use? opcorn: :yes:

 

[Longtimer]

Just call Baja Ron and talk to him before you start before ordering any parts he has a lot of info he 'll tell you I am glad I did !!

 

[Lew L]

.

SPEEDBLEEDERSnojoke

Lew L

 

[Bfromla]

Ok now that you told him how to do the job, what pads would you use? opcorn: :yes:

Thought self explanatoryopcorn: “ Ron’s instructions provided with pads” guessing could have caps or bold Ron’s my bad, lost with copy paste laziness

 

[Blackie312001]

Thx for the info !! Any thoughts on the pads themselves? Brand ?

 

[pegasus1300]

EBC, BajaRon or LaMonster

 

[Flamewinger]

Since Porsche cars have Brembo brakes like our Spyders, I wouldn’t use anything less. OEM have always worked well with no problems. Never had to replace a rotor on 5 Goldwings that all had close to if not over 100k miles. Won’t go cheap on my Spyder either.

 

[JayBros]

Your life is in your hands and right foot. In my book that demands nothing less than EBC fully sintered pads all the way around.

 

[JKMSPYDER]

+++ on EBC fully sintered pads. Only way to go.

 

[Blackie312001]

Nope …. My bad lol

 

[BajaRon]

Does anyone know what friction compound is used with the OEM Brembo pads on our rides? I've been told they are organic. But I have never confirmed this.

The pre- Brembo Spyders came with organic pads (except for the original 2008 models, which came with Semi-Metallic).

Brembo pads come in a number of variations from organic to ceramic. Not sure how many options are available for the Spyder.

Everything is a trade-off. Each compound has its advantages and disadvantages. The best stopping comes from Semi-Metallic and Fully Sintered. Each having its own drawbacks. Organic is the least expensive compound (usually a Kevlar or similar material). And is typically found on OEM setups. Organic offers the least amount of braking force and longevity. But offer other advantages.

People worry about rotor wear. The only rotors I've ever replaced on my own or customer's bikes were due to metal on metal from worn out pads, or warpage. Regardless of pad compound. Motorcycle rotors just don't wear out if cared for. You can reduce the chance of warpage by correctly torquing wheels, using compression braking, and not mashing the brake pedal when stopped with hot brakes. Compression braking also has the advantage of keeping you in the correct gear, if needed quickly.

 

[old Timer]

Ron, have never heard the term Compression braking. Please explain.

 

[Woodaddict]

Ron, have never heard the term Compression braking. Please explain.

thats just letting the engine brake some for you. throttle closed, you will feel the speed start to slow down, with no juice the compression of the engine will start to slow the spyder down a little

 

[Peter Aawen]

Ron, have never heard the term Compression braking. Please explain.

Another term for it is Engine braking... at its simplest, just back off on the throttle & let the driveline & gearbox slow the vehicle as it forces the pistons to keep turning against the engine's compression without the throttle supplying fuel to make power.

Or, as Ron suggested, changing down thru the gears as you slow - if you want to 'brake' harder while engine braking, you can even change down a gear or two, matching the engine revs to gear selection & road speed as you do that tho so that you don't slow the drive wheel/s speed so much/so rapidly that it breaks traction; then back right off on the throttle again, letting the s/lower gear selection add to the slowing effort above & beyond that provided by only working against the compression ratio with no fuel to burn. :thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

Ron, have never heard the term Compression braking. Please explain.

Thank you Woodaddict and Peter Aawen for clearing this up for everyone. I should have used the term, Engine Braking, as you did. I need all the help I can get!