Tie down points

[Nyparrothead]

Hi all,

i am am in the midst of a move cross country. I have a alumna TK1 trailer and will be using it the move the F3. It was designed as a trike trailer and has a wheel chock up front. I don't know if it would be better to back it in to take advantage of the chock or not...

I have looked in the manual and didn't see any suggested tie down points. Does anyone have recommendations ?
.
Mark

 

[Bob Denman]

In the manual for my RT; it says to put the straps through the wheels.
Have your anchor points right in front of each front tire, and a nice wide Vee in the rear.

At the rear of the bike; :lecturef_smilie: be careful around the sprocket, AND the rear brake caliper!

I'm surprised that they don't have information about this in your manual; they've always been pretty specific about using this method. :dontknow:

 

[spydaman60]

i've got the superclamps and i have been anchoring off of the passengers footrests! no problem!!!:thumbup::thumbup:

 

[tip]

tie downs

Before anchoring the Spyder backwards I would check it (in the trailer) for balance and tongue weight.
I do not like to tie down motorcycles -Spyders -etc. by any place except the wheels - no load on the suspension and not apt to move due to a bad bump.
It is your trailer so you can add (if you want to ) stationary stops in the front and go from there. Be sure to pad the wheels where the straps pass thru'.
My thoughts,
Tip

 

[Nyparrothead]

Hi

i have soft straps on the tie downs. I was kind of think the wheels would be the best point..

mark

 

[Highwayman2013]

Last November I hauled the Spyder in a Penske truck from Pa to NV (2400 miles) using the through the wheel tie down method and it did not move.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

TIE DOWN

This is no BS....I've trailered and trucked to Spyderfest twice 3000 miles round trip each time. The only tie-down I have used was a single Heavy Duty Rachet strap put over the rear tire ( in line with the tire ) , with the strap secured in the front and back of the rear tire. I lower the tire pressure by 1/2 and rachet it tight. I was in a serious accident and the Spyder never moved ......That Strap cost me about $5.00......Nothing touches the paint , nothing can bend and suspension parts etc. and it takes me about 10 minutes or less to secure. I rarely have to add tension............You can spend a lot more but the Spyder won't be any better secured.......You can't spend any less............Mike :thumbup:

 

[Chupaca]

All of the above...

you should be able to make new tie down points on your trailer. Now I think your only issue will be that front single if your on forwards. You may have to remove it to avoid damage to the front end. If backward, depending on how big a windshield you should remove it for the trip. :thumbup:

 

[TexAmRider]

Tie Down Points

I have trailered mine many times without incident.

Tie the 2 front wheels through the wheel to the frame of the trailer in front of the wheel with a soft strap ratchet. Was told by the dealer to angle the front straps outward on the trailer. Do not do this. Straight forward is right.

Tie the rear through the wheel with a soft strap straight back to the trailer frame under the ramp. After adding Hitch to miss mud flap, I use the wider v method acroos the back. Works fine.

I do use a cloth on the rear wheel placing it between the strap and the wheel.

Ratchet snug and check periodically.

 

[Frank G]

A lot of opinions

After Trailering the Spyder severial times I was never able to avoid scuff marks on the rims no matter how well I padded them.

I went with the over the wheel method as promoted by Mike, only I tie down all three wheels. If you have the CASH the Superclamp for Spyders is another way to go, This would be my first choice for all the reasons mentioned in there ad.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

THE RACHET STRAP THING

After Trailering the Spyder severial times I was never able to avoid scuff marks on the rims no matter how well I padded them.

I went with the over the wheel method as promoted by Mike, only I tie down all three wheels. If you have the CASH the Superclamp for Spyders is another way to go, This would be my first choice for all the reasons mentioned in there ad.

Frank, I was looking at your PIC and I couldn't tell if the floor bracket was bolted or screwed DOWN..........I'm sure it / they are BOLTED ........Right ... Because I wouldn't trust screws into wood ........I actually have a 3/8 th welded " EYE " bolt at the front thru the floor into a plate , in the rear it is a custom Hook welded onto the wheel cradle that is bolted to the truck frame..........I got this idea from looking at what " U-HAUL " has for people who rent the 2 wheel car towing devices....their straps are more complicated but you have lots more room in a car wheel-well than we do.....+ our Spyder"s don't weigh 4000 + lbs......Mike :thumbup:

 

[tpollon2]

Superclamp Spyder Tie Down

Superclamp's Spyder Tie down is specifically designed and intended for securing Can Am spyders down to trailers. They do not hurt Laser wheel alignments and do not damage A-arms or shocks.:yes:
http://www.superclamp.net/superclamp_spyder.asp

After Trailering the Spyder severial times I was never able to avoid scuff marks on the rims no matter how well I padded them.

I went with the over the wheel method as promoted by Mike, only I tie down all three wheels. If you have the CASH the Superclamp for Spyders is another way to go, This would be my first choice for all the reasons mentioned in there ad.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

YES YOU ARE CORRECT ABOUT THE SUPERCLAMP

Superclamp's Spyder Tie down is specifically designed and intended for securing Can Am spyders down to trailers. They do not hurt Laser wheel alignments and do not damage A-arms or shocks.:yes:

:agree:.......But the ONLY difference between the Superclamp & my $ 5.00 rachet strap.......is I have $ 495.00 to spend on Gas or food or booze or charity or whatever........Mike :thumbup:

 

[bmccaffrey]

After Trailering the Spyder severial times I was never able to avoid scuff marks on the rims no matter how well I padded them.

I went with the over the wheel method as promoted by Mike, only I tie down all three wheels. If you have the CASH the Superclamp for Spyders is another way to go, This would be my first choice for all the reasons mentioned in there ad.

Like better then through the rims.

Keep simple

 

[Superclamp]

:agree:.......But the ONLY difference between the Superclamp & my $ 5.00 rachet strap.......is I have $ 495.00 to spend on Gas or food or booze or charity or whatever........Mike :thumbup:

I would not trust $5.00 rachet straps on the front of my 20-30K Spyder, you have a chance of taking your alignment out on the front, as well as rubbing the powder coat off your rims, damaging your A-arms or shocks, etc, and yes your right, you can spend $495.00 on gas, food and booze, then you can spend another $495 + to fix your rims or alignment, A-arms or shocks if you damage them.

 

[tpollon2]

Superclamp Spyder Tie Down

:agree:.......But the ONLY difference between the Superclamp & my $ 5.00 rachet strap.......is I have $ 495.00 to spend on Gas or food or booze or charity or whatever........Mike :thumbup:

I do not understand jeopardizing damage to your $25000 Spyder for a $470 kick azz tie-down. A detachable backrest is over $500, a sport rack is over $400. The Superclamp Spyder tie-downs are simply the safest, easiest way to transport a Spyder. Honestly, straps through the rims or over a-arms is not good for the alignment. How do your rims look after trailering a few times with straps running through them? And we have not even talked about the rear suspension and premature shock damage.:chat:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

YOU NEED TO READ MY .....ENTIRE ORIGINAL POST

I would not trust $5.00 rachet straps on the front of my 20-30K Spyder, you have a chance of taking your alignment out on the front, as well as rubbing the powder coat off your rims, damaging your A-arms or shocks, etc, and yes your right, you can spend $495.00 on gas, food and booze, then you can spend another $495 + to fix your rims or alignment, A-arms or shocks if you damage them.

Dear Sir, I don't put it on the front tires......The strap I use is rated at 3000 lb break strength........And could please explain how preventing your wheel and tire from moving ( any amount ) can possibly damage the RIMS and / or ALIGNMENT..............I and others would be very interested in your explaination...................Anxiously waiting your reply .....Mike :thumbup:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT

I do not understand jeopardizing damage to your $25000 Spyder for a $470 kick azz tie-down. A detachable backrest is over $500, a sport rack is over $400. The Superclamp Spyder tie-downs are simply the safest, easiest way to transport a Spyder. Honestly, straps through the rims or over a-arms is not good for the alignment. How do your rims look after trailering a few times with straps running through them? And we have not even talked about the rear suspension and premature shock damage.:chat:

:yikes:.....Dear Sir : Before you start chastising me about what I Do / DID you need to read my original POST # 7.........you are confusing me with what someone else does ! ! !.............I don't do ANYTHING you have said I do.................Thank you ......Mike :gaah:

 

[Superclamp]

Dear Sir, I don't put it on the front tires......The strap I use is rated at 3000 lb break strength........And could please explain how preventing your wheel and tire from moving ( any amount ) can possibly damage the RIMS and / or ALIGNMENT..............I and others would be very interested in your explaination...................Anxiously waiting your reply .....Mike :thumbup:

Because of where you plan to tie down from and how you tie it down, can cause a lot of problems, 1. example is if you run your strap through the rims and place a cloth around the rim first to prevent the strap from rubbing, as you start your travels, it is fact, tie down straps loosen, and then the cloth works its way out and your strap then rubs the powder coating raw (Fact: we have heard this from many Spyder lovers in North America). 2. The way some trailer manufactures put their tie down points on the corners of their trailers, Some Spyder owner have no choice but to tie down thought the rims and pull tight to the opposite corners (Towing out the wheels) and now they are taking the alignment out. BRP Manual suggest you to tie down through your rims, everyone ties there Spyders down differently also, when you use a Spyder Tie down system there is only 1 way, and there is no wrong way, and lessens the chance of you tying it down the wrong way and possible damage that may occur.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

YOU ARE CONFUSING ME WITH SOMEONE ELSE'S POST

Because of where you plan to tie down from and how you tie it down, can cause a lot of problems, 1. example is if you run your strap through the rims and place a cloth around the rim first to prevent the strap from rubbing, as you start your travels, it is fact, tie down straps loosen, and then the cloth works its way out and your strap then rubs the powder coating raw (Fact: we have heard this from many Spyder lovers in North America). 2. The way some trailer manufactures put their tie down points on the corners of their trailers, Some Spyder owner have no choice but to tie down thought the rims and pull tight to the opposite corners (Towing out the wheels) and now they are taking the alignment out. BRP Manual suggest you to tie down through your rims, everyone ties there Spyders down differently also, when you use a Spyder Tie down system there is only 1 way, and there is no wrong way, and lessens the chance of you tying it down the wrong way and possible damage that may occur.

If you read my posts # 7 & 17 you will see you are talking to the wrong person on this ( try TexAmRider Post on this topic ) ........I don't do it the way you are referring to.......Mike :gaah: