Thinking of buying a Spyder, but have a lot of Questions - any help please?

[FrogmanDave]

I am convinced that there's not very many 4 wheeled machines and virtually no 2 wheeled machines out there that can handle the tight corners & short straights like a 3 wheeled Spyder being ridden hard by a skilled rider! :yes:

A Spyder running a good set of Sport Touring or Hi-Performance Car tires at the right pressure for the load (usually 20 psi or lower ) has waaaay better braking than just about aanything out there courtesy of the 2 front wheels & the Brembo brakes; so a skilled rider can dive into corners faster, brake harder, take the corners tighter & faster with far more stability & surety than even the best of 2 wheeled machines, then get on the throttle sooner & accelerate harder earlier coming out; so anywhere with tight twisties & short straights, a skilled Spyder rider working it can get thru the twisties showing even the most expensive/fastest sport/super cars & the fastest & most skillfully ridden 2 wheel sport bikes a clean pair of heels! hyea: But once the corners start to open out & the straights get longer, Spyders do start to suffer at higher speeds from the dirty great wall of air they hafta push along ahead of them courtesy of the 2 front wheels, the broad frontal area, and any windshield they may have fitted, let alone the extra weight they and many of us ryders seem to carry these days!! :gaah:

My thoughts exactly. I can push my Spyder much quicker through a tight corner than I ever could any sport bike I have ever owned. I'll never be able to push my Spyder like some of these guys can (and probably don't want to), but for me the cornering and braking are just phenominal on this machine.

 

[Wahrsuul]

Yep, True that! :thumbup: Besides, I'm told that 60 is the new 40! hyea:

Maybe, but 9pm is the new midnight.

Anyway, just to toss in my .02 - I have a 2014 RTS. Pretty much the same as the RTL, but less chrome. I love all the storage space on it, seems to be more of it than the same years of F3.

I don't care for the SE system and would rather have a manual. I've been with it over three years now so I've given it a fair try.

I'm on an RT because the wife preferred the passenger seat over the F3. Having sat on a few F3s, I like the riding position better for me, but the RT is ok. I could use some highway pegs, but haven't done that yet.

Everyone's butt is different, but mine does not like the stock seat for anything over about an hour.

Tires are a preference just like on two wheels, but car tires definitely wear better and work at least as good if not better in most cases than the stock Kendas.

I find "nanny" to be a bit too abrupt for me, but I'm in the minority there as well. And I figure it's just me needing more practice finding her limits, but I don't get enough steady riding time to get that in.

Routine maintenance is different - having to pull the front off the tryke to change the plugs... The oil changes and air filter are pretty easy.

 

[Crewless]

60 is nothing.

I’ve heard of riders in their mid-70s, some close to 80, who hopped on a Spyder and having the time of their lives !!

I'm 75+ and ride (2021 RTL) the Cascade Foothills every day (Except Rain), many days with my 71 Year old wife. The rear car tire switch (215x60x15) at 9000 miles was a must for me. Few upgrades are needed, yet, for my riding style, after a year of mountain riding I just haven't seen the need. Most days I ride with my son who rides an HD Road King, we both take the curves at about the same speed. Usually 100-200 miles a day. I've read a lot about the sway bar changes and yes I rock a little, swaying with the road and curves, but we are very comfortable at our chosen speed at the curves (Usually less than 20 over max). In March we did a 5 State 3,700 mile ride (Western States). Interstate speeds 80mph (SF bay Area 90+) and the bike performed great. Set the cruise and stay awake. The wind and Snow of Idaho and Utah made me appreciate the electric windshield adjustments. Southern California traffic made my hand really appreciate the paddle shifter and auto downshift. Funny how after a while you feel safer riding a spyder than driving a car, must be the ability to see so much around you. I do need to upgrade with some fog lights, learned that in Laguna predawn fog. In desert/warm/hot riding, RT Hot seat is a fact (Still Search for the right fix here). Sometimes I think the Spyder was built for old men to ride. The best gear I've bought is the 12-volt heated jacket liner and Snow Overalls with leg zippers. Makes Oregon winter riding enjoyable.

 

[Kromm]

I signed up The Wife and I for the Rider course (When I told my wife about the class she said she wanted to learn how to ride one also) on Aug 13th in Santa Clara Ca. After all the Info I have gathered, I am torn between an RT Limited and an F3 Limited Special. I put that on my notes for the class, so hopefully they will have both there for me to check out. To be honest, I am leaning towards the RT. I have a Dealer here in town, and their web site lists that they have an RT Limited in stock. But right now, the next step is to go and ride one.

 

[Steve W.]

I saw a few mentions about the auto-shifting, and wanted to clarify something.

The mentions were that you had to push the paddle to upshift, but the bike would automatically downshift. A bit yes AND no on that. If you are slowing to a stop, yes, the bike will quietly downshift as you slow down, ending up in first gear when you stop. HOWEVER, ... if you are cruising down the 2-lane at 60 mph and come up on someone you want to pass, opening the throttle all the way will just get you more noise and a bit of acceleration. If you want to downshift right NOW, you must bump the paddle a time or three. THEN the bike will jump forward to do what you were originally hoping to accomplish.

Other than that, all the other responses were pretty much right on. :thumbup:

.

 

[cruisinTX]

After scanning quickly through all the answers so far, I can't add much other than the stock seat is by far the most comfortable I have ever straddled. Now, that's comparing it to all of the motorcycle seats I've ever sat on since 1968. This is my first Spyder (2014 RTL) and the initial ride home of 450 miles was as good a ride as I have ever had.

 

[Kromm]

I went to my Dealer to talk to them and get some info on what their maintenance costs were. They have 3 RTLs and 1 F3 in stock ready to go. I got to sit on one of the RTLs and was very surprised about the seat. I didn't get to talk much with the Salesman, My Daughter in law called and was having Car problems.
I found one thing that surprised me was I asked about the first maintenance, I thought I read somewhere that it was to be done at 600 miles. But the Salesman told me first maintenance is done at 3000 miles. Then every 9000 miles after that. That seems like quite a long ways on the first maintenance.

 

[K80Shooter]

I went to my Dealer to talk to them and get some info on what their maintenance costs were. They have 3 RTLs and 1 F3 in stock ready to go. I got to sit on one of the RTLs and was very surprised about the seat. I didn't get to talk much with the Salesman, My Daughter in law called and was having Car problems.
I one thing that surprised me was I asked about the first maintenance, I thought I read somewhere that it was to be done at 600 miles. But the Salesman told me first maintenance is done at 3000 miles. Then every 9000 miles after that. That seems like quit a long ways on the first maintenance.

3,000 on the 1st and then every 9,000 or one year, whichever comes 1st.

I won't do 9,000 in two, maybe 3 years myself. As long as it's under warranty I'll do the once a year but after that...... nope no way for me.

 

[Peter Aawen]

That 600 miles thing is an ancient history relic hang-over from the V-twins, or it could be a mistaken idea transferred from the Rykers, but it never actually applied to the 1330's at all!! :lecturef_smilie: . As the salesman & others have mentioned above, Their first service is scheduled at 3000 miles or 1 year/thereabouts, & every 9000 miles/year there-after, altho some do like to just change the oil earlier on the first cos they are concerned about the possibility of production/manufacturing swarf &/or debris floating around in the initial oil fill - but I'm pretty sure that like most modern engines, these 1330's are all filled with oil & coolant before being run up on a test bed at the end of the production line; after which they're drained, packed up, & sent on their way from the factory.... :thumbup:

So it's really up to you - the maintenance schedule doesn't call for an earlier oil change, but I don't believe anyone's been refused a warranty claim because they've changed the oil too often on a Spyder.... not yet, anyway! Probably won't hurt, but is it really of any benefit?? :dontknow: So that one is definitely your decision to make! hyea:

Good Luck! :cheers: