The Next Upgrade

[robmorg]

So, in actual practice, what is it that causes these clips to fail. Is it the frequent "whacking" of the mirror housing to get it on and off, or would it take a more severe shock than that, like a large pot hole (or both)?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

CAUSES

So, in actual practice, what is it that causes these clips to fail. Is it the frequent "whacking" of the mirror housing to get it on and off, or would it take a more severe shock than that, like a large pot hole (or both)?

From what others have commented , both have occurred with these......Mike :thumbup:

 

[jwulf74]

What I want to see is the "keyhole" type for all 3 mounts and then some sort of locking mechanism to keep it from hopping off. That way the are easy to put on and take off and no more smacking the mirrors and potentially breaking stuff to get them on and off...

 

[Roadster Renovations]

So, in actual practice, what is it that causes these clips to fail. Is it the frequent "whacking" of the mirror housing to get it on and off, or would it take a more severe shock than that, like a large pot hole (or both)?

Sometimes someone will bump them, walk up and learn on the mirror (a big no-no), etc. etc.

The system is not ideal. Especially when they fall off going down the road. :yikes:

 

[garb55]

I was putting the RT back together and decided that I would use the new clips that I have been carrying around for over a year in case one broke. Upon closer examination I see that they have been modified from the original. First, they are side contingent. So you will have to carry one for each side. They also have put slots in for added flexibility. Not sure that I like these new ones. They seem even more fragile. I am going to try them and get one of the originals to my machinist. I know that to be fabricated correctly, they will have to have some tight tolerances. Beyond what I can do in my shop. Half the battle with this stuff is knowing what you can and can't do.

I did not use tight tolerances on the ones I made
I just eyeballed them and cut the metal washers with a dermal
They work fine
Don

 

[robmorg]

Sometimes someone will bump them, walk up and learn on the mirror (a big no-no), etc. etc.

The system is not ideal. Especially when they fall off going down the road. :yikes:

:agree: The attachment design for these mirrors is simply ridiculous. I can't understand why BRP continuously fails to correct the design flaw, year after year. Especially since the entire bike is designed such that you have to remove them in order to perform almost all repairs.

And it's not just the attachment design. The multiple piece housings snap together with thin, flimsy, breakable plastic tabs. What's wrong with actually using screws (or at least metal clips) to keep the mirror housings together?

Doc, forget the attachment clips. I think you ought to design a whole new mirror assembly and sell the design to BRP. That would make a huge improvement to the Spyder line.

 

[Cavman]

When I picked up my 2010 RT from a repair, the left mirror fell off. So, I duct taped it back into position as I was leaving to go out of town.
When I got back, the dealer had to order one of those items. In the mean time, I made a replacement out of aluminum sheet metal. I carry the ordered part because the aluminum one was still working fine.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

:agree: The attachment design for these mirrors is simply ridiculous. I can't understand why BRP continuously fails to correct the design flaw, year after year. Especially since the entire bike is designed such that you have to remove them in order to perform almost all repairs.

And it's not just the attachment design. The multiple piece housings snap together with thin, flimsy, breakable plastic tabs. What's wrong with actually using screws (or at least metal clips) to keep the mirror housings together?

Doc, forget the attachment clips. I think you ought to design a whole new mirror assembly and sell the design to BRP. That would make a huge improvement to the Spyder line.

It would be possible to use a new attaching method utilizing the existing housings. That might be the best way possible. I have also toyed with the idea of mirror extensions. Move the mirrors out farther (1-2") and set a foolproof locking method in the gap that could have some sort of cover that would slip into the void, maybe snapping into place. Plenty of room to secure the mirrors several different ways then.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

It sounds like several of you have come up with workable solutions for your bikes. If I am going to offer them they will have to be uniform and I just cannot do that on a large enough scale. We'll see what my machinist says. Should see him tomorrow. WE need a system that stays where it is put, is durable, and easily removed.

 

[pitzerwm]

Maybe its just "planned obsolesce" build a reasonably good product with a lot of cheap/poorly designed parts that aren't covered by warranty that have to be replaced and charge ridicules prices. The upside is that it gives smart people the opportunity to build a better mousetrap and make a few bucks.

 

[eddieshep999]

Working on a metal version.............

Maybe carbon fibre ones if they could be made instead of metal

 

[PMK]

After some research of Part Numbers, it seems those with model year 2013 made on and after April 11, 2013 have got unique fasteners to mount the mirrors compared to all other years including early 2013 versions.

Seems as if BRP tried to improve the mirror mounting on the late 2013 RT series but for some reason, and I do not know why, the reverted back to the original design and parts. These original style mounting parts may or may not fit the 2013 RT Spyders built April 11 and after of the 2013 Model Year.. More research would need to be done to verify this.

PK

 

[jcthorne]

The plastic "Upper Pellets" as they are called in the BRP parts catalogue are $12.99 each. To me, that is not cheap. I recently bought 2 left hand & 2 right hand so I could have one of each to carry with me on the Spyder, and one of each to have at home in my tool box. The total with shipping was $62.69. I have replaced these three times now. Yes, they are a LOT cheaper than a mirror assembly, which is why I carry spares. I also zip tie the electrical connectors together to keep the mirror from completely falling off in case the "pellet" fails. That saved BOTH of my mirrors when I was unable due to traffic to avoid hitting a large pothole and both mirrors fell off. Glad I was carrying spares.

You obviously bought something different than I did. I bought 4, both sides use the same part and they were $6 and change each with discount. List was $8. The screws are stupid priced from BRP so I bought a box of several hundred on amazon for less than $10.

 

[jcthorne]

So, in actual practice, what is it that causes these clips to fail. Is it the frequent "whacking" of the mirror housing to get it on and off, or would it take a more severe shock than that, like a large pot hole (or both)?

Someone leaning on the mirror will do it......

 

[jcthorne]

What I want to see is the "keyhole" type for all 3 mounts and then some sort of locking mechanism to keep it from hopping off. That way the are easy to put on and take off and no more smacking the mirrors and potentially breaking stuff to get them on and off...

Sorry, you just have not learned how to remove and replace them yet. You do not need to smack anything and nothing breaks taking them off or installing.

 

[Bob Denman]

Or if someone leans down by a front tire, and tries standing back up just a bit too close to the mirrors...
(Don't ask... pps

 

[jcthorne]

After some research of Part Numbers, it seems those with model year 2013 made on and after April 11, 2013 have got unique fasteners to mount the mirrors compared to all other years including early 2013 versions.

Seems as if BRP tried to improve the mirror mounting on the late 2013 RT series but for some reason, and I do not know why, the reverted back to the original design and parts. These original style mounting parts may or may not fit the 2013 RT Spyders built April 11 and after of the 2013 Model Year.. More research would need to be done to verify this.

PK

That would explain why the broken ones on Louise RT (late 2013) looked different than the ones that I had on my early 2013. Regardless the replacements I bought for mine (early and look like the pics above) work fine on both.

 

[copilot]

The dealer that did my recall broke the plastic piece on my left mirror. They broke the right side when I bought it. 12.99 a piece for new pieces. I bought one for each side and they bought one. That being said, they will not mount any tire other than what they sell. 180 miles round trip and they want me to go to them to fix what they broke.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

[ceyer69]

Video Demonstration Please!!

Is their a good video out there of the proper removal of the mirrors?

Sorry, you just have not learned how to remove and replace them yet. You do not need to smack anything and nothing breaks taking them off or installing.

 

[Firefly]

I got rid of their entire mounting system... because it SUCKS. I used stainless bolts in place of the mounting studs. No way are my mirrors coming off without removing the bolts. I'll post some photos sometime, but to remove mine you have to remove the outer shell of the mirror and then unbolt the mirror from the Spyder. They are rock solid and cannot move.

This mounting system is a real sore spot with me... It blows my mind that BRP would have such a hokey way of mounting the RT mirrors.

I used to have a 'safety cord' on them out of fear of them falling off... as has happened out here by a few people.

The only difficulty would be taking mine in for service work, but I do almost all of that myself, and if I ever do need service work, I usually strip all the panels off and take it in naked (the Spyder.... not me).