-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
The dreaded leaking air bag!!!!
- Thread starter Lew L
- Start date
Haze
Well-known member
Sorry for your discovery.
Wish I had a serious answer for you.
Previous posts listed a loose or defective Schrader valve as a cause.
The most novel repair idea that I read (Facebook) was give it a shot of Slime or some other leak repair solution. :thumbup:
I'll be watching this post progression for serious answers.
Good Luck and let me know if you need help.
Wish I had a serious answer for you.
Previous posts listed a loose or defective Schrader valve as a cause.
The most novel repair idea that I read (Facebook) was give it a shot of Slime or some other leak repair solution. :thumbup:
I'll be watching this post progression for serious answers.
Good Luck and let me know if you need help.
The only time I ever saw the bag itself leaking was due to small stones/fine gravel under the very bottom of the bag...They wear small holes where the bottom of the bag mounts...If this is the case the only fix is a new bag...If you need a new bag be sure to install a fernco cup under the new bag...You will also need a slightly longer metric bolt...Most of the leaks are at those push lock fittings...Some had check valves leaking back...And there were a few with schreader valves leaking...Do a search, this topic has many posts...larryd
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...-still-avail&highlight=fernco+cup+for+air+bag
You can get limited access from the right side...Easies place to start...You can get better access if you remove the rear tire...You get the BEST access if you remove the rear section of the bike...There is a U-tube video for this option...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEpRbdH3HE0
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...-still-avail&highlight=fernco+cup+for+air+bag
You can get limited access from the right side...Easies place to start...You can get better access if you remove the rear tire...You get the BEST access if you remove the rear section of the bike...There is a U-tube video for this option...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEpRbdH3HE0
You can also remove, clean & inspect the check valve on the outlet side of the compressor with the right side center panel removed...Do the easy things first...larryd
taxmyzer
New member
When my compressor failed for the second time I replaced it with Viair 95C. I had to drill & tap new holes to spin the check valve 180 degrees this was simple to do. I also replaced the section of air line going into the check valve. Others on the forum used Viair 97C this unit was reported to cause fuses to blow as it draws higher current than OE. The 95c draws the same current as OE and works great it's been on my bike nearly a year with no issues. The system is finally working the way it was meant to work. If you end up taking the bike apart I would replace the compressor.
Lew L
Well-known member
Thanks---- that's next. Is the solenoid valve mentioned above attainable without the trunk removal???
Lew L
Well-known member
Is this part attached to the air manifold " block"??????
Lew L
Well-known member
Thanks for the thought Dave but I trust FB as far as I could throw the :spyder2:
Sure seems like adding this to the system would gum up the solenoid and check valves. A short cut I wouldn't take.
I called it a solenoid valve but it is in fact the manifold. The part with the wires coming out of it can be separated from the manifold to gain access and clean it. I wiped mine out with a Q tip and blew it out with air, there was crud in there. The air line that comes out of the check valve goes directly to it, then a line goes to the schrader valve, and one goes to the airbag. If you take the middle panel off on the right side you can easily access the check valve and manifold. At least that's how it is on mine.
Haze
Well-known member
Hey Lew. :2thumbs:
This was meant to be humor not a serious attempt at repair. nojoke.
We share the same feeling about FB advice.
I'll be watching as I need to stockpile ideas for when the air bag on my F3T needs repair.
do they have a rear shock that works=my victory vision has the worst air shock system and the fix is an 800$ penske shock (no air)
that's rebuildable.....my vision holds air fine but it's finicky and the ride is questionable on the rear at times...both my RTs are in working order and I'm hoping they stay that way ...BAKER Wings sells a compressor if that goes out but its mounted in the RT trunk and IDK seems a bit lame but its only 200$
that's rebuildable.....my vision holds air fine but it's finicky and the ride is questionable on the rear at times...both my RTs are in working order and I'm hoping they stay that way ...BAKER Wings sells a compressor if that goes out but its mounted in the RT trunk and IDK seems a bit lame but its only 200$
mcalva
Member
I did it to my RT 2011 Ltd. Pros: A lot less of garbage and much more reliable operation. Cons: More expensive but definitive.
Lew I had a problem with my system also and end up by passing the compressor and solenoid block. Remove the line from the solenoid block that goes to the air bag than remove the line on the solenoid that goes to the Schrader valve connect the two lines with a 1/8 npt coupling and just fill with air manually. I removed my Solenoid valve and link on the left side, saved for later if I want to replace compressor. Make sure and use some tape on threads to seal. I put 70 PSI in air bag for riding 2 up 50 to 60 is good solo. Just an option to keep in mind; but removing the fittings is not easy because of the sealant / Loctite they used on the threads. Good luck with your project. :thumbup:
Similar threads
