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Temporarily Disable VSS?

I'm not advocating that this be tried... :shocked:
Since the combination of wheelspin and steering angle is what triggers Nanny to wake up...
And you have no way to kill off the steering angle sensor...
Take the aspeed sensor off of the rear wheel, and piggyback it's signal from one of the fronts!
Your bike will think that the wheelspeeds are all the same; no wheelspin! :thumbup:

:lecturef_smilie: BUT IF YOU GO ON YOUR HEAD; you were told NOT to try this! :lecturef_smilie:
 
"Considering a stiffer sway bar" isn't a modification, it's considering a modification. :coffee:

Then again, your sig says you have the Evo bar... :dontknow:

For the record, I've got an Evo bar, plus I sprung for a pair of Fox shocks (they work fine on early RS/GS models). My Nanny experience isn't nearly as harsh as yours, but everybody seems to have a different ride. (How far off do you hang in sharp, slow turns? You get far better results the further off you hang).

That all said... we ride trikes. Trikes at sharp, slow turns lift wheels. The Nanny kicks in when this happens. Disabling the Nanny won't stop your wheels from lifting in turns-- that part is physics-- which means it won't do anything to increase your speed in turns. What it *will* do is prevent your Spyder from returning its wheels to the ground, unless you yourself are faster than the Nanny in applying brake and modulating throttle.

Seeing as you're a human being like myself, I doubt that this is true. :joke:

Anyway, like your link describes, there's a way of disabling the VSS. Why don't you try that and ride around a big open lot for a while, and report your results?
 
...After you're out of the hospital; of course! :shocked:
Pessimist! As the Captain of the Hindenurg once said, "Adventurers and experimenters are shining beacons of painfully won knowledge for all us". He said that "before" the explosion, in case you were wondering. It's unlikely he'd have had time to say it afterwards. Just sayin............................
 
I'm not advocating that this be tried... :shocked:
Since the combination of wheelspin and steering angle is what triggers Nanny to wake up...
And you have no way to kill off the steering angle sensor...
Take the aspeed sensor off of the rear wheel, and piggyback it's signal from one of the fronts!
Your bike will think that the wheelspeeds are all the same; no wheelspin! :thumbup:

:lecturef_smilie: BUT IF YOU GO ON YOUR HEAD; you were told NOT to try this! :lecturef_smilie:

Your a genious. All you would have to do it move the rear abs sensor to the front and place it beside one of the front ABS sensors so it can see the same pulse count. I'm on my way to the garage now! And even better idea is to have a switch that would allow you to switch from back to front sensor Ans just leave the back and add a second front one.

Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
 
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Pessimist! As the Captain of the Hindenurg once said, "Adventurers and experimenters are shining beacons of painfully won knowledge for all us". He said that "before" the explosion, in case you were wondering. It's unlikely he'd have had time to say it afterwards. Just sayin............................

It's the insurance guy in me that does that... :shocked:
 
You're a genious. All you would have to do it move the rear abs sensor to the front and place it beside one of the front ABS sensors so it can see the same pulse count. I'm on my way to the garage now! And even better idea is to have a switch that would allow you to switch from back to front sensor Ans just leave the back and add a second front one.
Not me! :shocked:
This has been kicked around quite a bit over the years in most all of the forums; I just remembered it a bit better...
Give us a full report on the outcome, and Good Luck! :thumbup:
 
I've never been a fan of electronic stability systems and the like. I can see the draw from a manufacturers point of view as they need to cater to a wide audience and the systems ensure a situation is neutralised way before it need become an issue.

My biggest issue with electronic nannies is that they don't operate in a consistent manner. They are designed to work in a certain manner within a pre-programmed set of parameters relying on feedback from sensors. So fair enough, they may stop the back end sliding out under acceleration or the Spyder lifting its wheel to the point it may topple but these are pretty basic scenarios relying on rudimentary sensors (steering angle input, yaw sensor, wheel speed sensors, tilting sensor?).

That said, I've done 350 miles with mine and I'm still running it in. I found the light coming on all the time on my way home from work, I commute through country lanes so lots of curves, bumps, off cambers and all sorts. I went around one corner with a mid corner hump and negative camber, one wheel lifted slightly as is expected going fast over a hump, what wasn't expected was the whole system cutting power and applying brakes, in this instance to the one wheel still on the floor causing the bike to lurch to the left on a right hand bend nearly spitting me off the road by virtue of a total imbalance courtesy of the very system which is supposed to prevent accidents veering me into the gutter.

By trying to suppress certain behaviours, its actually more of a liability and I can't help but feel that I would rather not have it or at least have it switcheable or adjustable in terms of degrees of intervention.

The other thing I noticed is how a little slip at the rear accelerating through corners, helps the spyder turn and alleviates the forces being generated at the front wheels/through the bars during harder cornering. It allows a certain amount of slip angle before the light flashes, it would be nice if it allowed a bit more but again I can see why they've programmed it as such, last thing you'd want is a highside and they've actually been quite generous in this respect, I was pleasantly suprised they've allowed as much slip and in this instance, the intrusion is subtle.

What I really object to is the activation of brakes on stability systems. Numbing power is one thing, and should be adjustable, but there are too many variables that make brake intervention dangerous imho. Metal drain covers for example, hit one of these with one wheel while braking and the system will react violently, when you're in an on the limit situation, smoothness is one of the key attributes that will see you through, a violent activation of braking and cutting of power as happened to me isn't the best solution. So these systems are fine if you use your vehicle well within the parameters that the system is designed to activate at, but if you're a bit more enthusiastic and driving right up to the safety parameters that CanAm have set the Spyder up to operate within and constantly bringing the light on, or there are particular unpredictable circumstances, more complicated than a basic wheel slip or lift, then imho their presence is actually more dangerous.

Is there a simple fuse pull which can deactivate the system and leave the light on while it's deactivated and auto resets on reactivation? If so I'd gladly fit a switch so when pressing on I could have the confidence that nothing is suddenly going to cut in and cause a potential problem. My fate is then in my hands rather than CanAm's! Then when I'm just cruising etc, quite happy to leave it be as I wouldn't be riding in a manner that would cause the system to get upset.

My 2c
 
The test pilots at BRP were able to ride the early "test Mules", without the benefit of the VSS systems...
They called them "Lawn Darts" :shocked: dart.jpg
 
From the sounds of it, it seems like the system has been refined over the years, I could learn to ride around it happily enough, but the VSS braking and subsequent lurching was a bit disconcerting.

I wonder what the refinements to the new RSS VSS will be like? Would be nice if they could sell sports upgrades to the VSS.
 
I believe that the RS (Or maybe just the RS-S), got a Sport-Tuned version of the system for 2014...
Indeed, the RS-S for 2014 got "retuned" VSS. I had a very brief test ride on one and the difference was marginal at best -- I wasn't even sure I could tell a difference.

I'll repeat my recommendation from earlier in this thread, BRP should provide several rider-selectable settings just like BMW and other motorcycle manufacturers have done. I'm not recommending the ability to totally disable the system, just provide a few different settings. That would please the enthusiasts and still keep the safety factor up.

In fact I did not buy an RS-S to go with my wife's ST-S after that test ride for that reason specifically, instead I bought a new R1200GS LC and am loving it. I therefore voted with my dollars.
 
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I would not suggest disconnecting the VSS, even if you can. The expert test pilots at BRP, thinking the same thing you are and many others of us have, had a switch for the VSS. As mentioned by 'The Insurance Guy', they said it was very dangerous and tossed a few of them like Lawn Darts (their words, not mine).

But there are things that you can do to mitigate the Nanny Factor.
 
I'll repeat my recommendation from earlier in this thread, BRP should provide several rider-selectable settings just like BMW and other motorcycle manufacturers have done. I'm not recommending the ability to totally disable the system, just provide a few different settings. That would please the enthusiasts and still keep the safety factor up.

^ This. BRP, please offer us an optional accessory box with adjustable sports VSS settings.

I'd like to see the ABS auto activation system be switcheable, so ABS is retained but the auto intervention aspect be switched off completely so it won't kick in and apply braking by itself when it deems it fit to do so. This is my biggest beef with the system, as in certain circumstances it is just plain dangerous and I would ride with this permanently off, but I would like ABS to remain!

Then adjustable traction control from a scale of say 1-5 to allow more slip angle. In the wet I can imagine it would be very lairy without TC, in the dry it could do with a bit more or even a fair bit more slip angle. I'm not worried about a total lock out on this, wouldn't really want to smoke out my rear tyre but I guess there are some that would.

Cheers
Nito
 
I suspect DrewNJ mentions funny, but knows also it is a rather complicated setup for owners to alter to achieve every desired result.

PK
 
i rember when i bought my rs some riders were taking the relay or fuse out that worked the vss and it did work but some got in bad things happining like wheel left,so dont try it.:chat: or if you do its not my falt,:yikes:
 
Checking back into this thread, I see that in all this time, no one has yet disabled their Nanny to see how the Spyder rides without it.

Instructions are up above, you're all free to do it, please report back. :joke:
 
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