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Technical assist ?

krb1945

New member
A friend a few states north of me sent a note saying his check engine came on after an oil / filter change and won't go off. After changing the oil it started right up oil light turned off as it should but then the check engine light came and the rear cylinder started missing. He said it was running fine before the oil change.

I suggested that he make sure the spark plug wire wasn't loose on the plug and it wasn't loose on the coil. I also mentioned checking the sensor connector below the head on the forward part of the rear cylinder. And to check all the electrical connectors under the left front of the air box.

I would appreciate other ideas on this symptom? All help, suggestions, or otherwise is appreciated. Have a great day folks and ride 'em safely. Ken krb1945
 
A friend a few states north of me sent a note saying his check engine came on after an oil / filter change and won't go off. After changing the oil it started right up oil light turned off as it should but then the check engine light came and the rear cylinder started missing. He said it was running fine before the oil change.

I suggested that he make sure the spark plug wire wasn't loose on the plug and it wasn't loose on the coil. I also mentioned checking the sensor connector below the head on the forward part of the rear cylinder. And to check all the electrical connectors under the left front of the air box.

I would appreciate other ideas on this symptom? All help, suggestions, or otherwise is appreciated. Have a great day folks and ride 'em safely. Ken krb1945

Does not make sense on the face of it. Can't think of anything more than your suggestions.

I did a tune-up on a friends, mothers VW bug one time. The next morning she went out to take it to work and it had a flat tire. I got blamed because she was just sure it was related to the work I did to her car.

I didn't even move it! Probably a sharp feeler gauge slipped and sliced her tire!
 
Did she ask you to fix the tire? I like that story though.

I suspect it is being caused by a loose connection which was bumped during the oil change. My friend is out of town until tomorrow evening so he will let me know after he checks what I suggested. More to follow on what he finds. Ken krb1945
 
If it was just a simple oil/filter change, whats happening shouldn't be happening. My suggestion is for your Friend to go back to the LAST thing he did.:dontknow: Maybe he did more than just an oil change.?
 
All he did was change the oil and filter. If he wasn't about 900 miles north of me I'd go look at it. I suspect a connector or plug wire was loose and got bumped. I'll know more tomorrow evening after he gets back from a business trip so he can do the checking I suggested. /Ken krb1945
 
Engine light

Hello fellow SpyderRyders.I'm new to this Wonderful site. So easy to use , and I am NOT computer savy and SO INFORMATIVE.I bought a use GS , PE 213, with 1400 miles on it a couple of months ago. I have put 1700 blissfull miles on it with no problems. Added half a quart of oil , OOPS, not synthetic, 10w/40. Since then have had problems. Turn it on , no display, wait, keep trying, finally display with engine light, limp home. Turn it off. Try again later. Works, Take a ryde last night. Starts up, runs good. I'm a happy camper. Got to my destination, 45 min later, no go. Wait, Finally works, runs great. Run home instead of going further.......Question..... Was it the oil , don't think so, It does need to be changed ASAP. But,,,,,dirty air filter, I do live on a dirt road. Loose wires? ,,I want my sweet running Spyder back!:gaah:
 
always . . . .

. . . . check to make sure your fuses are firmly seated when you get dash messages or have intermittent problems like you describe.

The front ones seem to be the most problem. See the manual ( in mine, it is page 104 ) for more info.

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After opening the top, just push down on them and then make sure the fuse cover is properly clicked in.

This may not be your issue, but always a good thing to check. The dirt road may be vibrating them loose.

Tom
 
MoonChaser...

I have listed the symptoms you sent so others can make suggestions too... Also mixing oil will not cause any problems as long as you are mixing oil designed for motorcycles with wet clutches. BRP's oil is a synthetic blend. Personally I prefer a pure synthetic because every molecule is identical to the next molecule. Now to the problem at hand...

MoonChasers instrument cluster problem....I turn the key, nothing. I 'll wait, finally get it started and the engine light comes on. Turn it off, Wait, Then it works fine and I ride, Not running hot, all systems go,runs great. Then I'll have the problem. I'm thinking loose wires? I'm going to go check the plugs

First things to check...
The official BRP Shop Repair Manual states in the lights/gauge section the first thing to check is the Battery Condition ie: the state of the battery charge. Many of us use a battery tender every week or so to keep these small batteries up to one hundred percent. Heat, sitting, idling for long periods, additional electrical equipment all put a load on this little battery. Low battery charge can and in many cases will cause all kinds of weird system malfunctions.

If your battery is old and has been sitting a long time and will not get back to what battery tenders call fully charged in an overnight trickle it may be a good idea to replace the battery with a top quality premium battery.

Also check the battery terminal connections. If you can limp it over to my location I'll help you sort it out. If you can't get to me let me know and I'll set up a time to come over to help you.

In the forward Fuse box... The one pointed out in a previous post... make sure all your relays and fuses are fully seated. From your description it sounds like the problem is intermittent which points to a loose relay or fuse.

Under the seat are where the main fuses are... fuse number 3, rectifier, and number 4, main fuse, can cause these symptoms. But having said this... if they were causing an intermittent problem they would have to be mighty loose. If they were loose enough to be arching and sparking that bad they would probably blow even though they are 50 and 40 amps.

I suspect state of the battery charge and/or loose relays in the forward fuse box. Ken krb1945
 
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Ken, have you gotten an update on your friend's situation yet?

I remember reading somewhere on here that the RT will sometimes have the check engine light come on after an oil change, but it goes out if you ryde it for a little while. Of course, if this isn't an RT then all bets are off.
 
Fuses all ok tight and not burnt

Going to check the battery next. The previos owner let it sit for a long time without running it. Maybe it's not up to par.? Got it started finally and it ran. Check engine light not on this time. Very inconsistent.
 
Going to check the battery next. The previos owner let it sit for a long time without running it. Maybe it's not up to par.? Got it started finally and it ran. Check engine light not on this time. Very inconsistent.

Check your battery connections as well. My wife had installed some small LED light pods on hers, connected directly to the battery. We came out of a store one afternoon, she turned the key on her Spyder and got nothing. Checked all the fuses, they were good to go, tried again and nothing. I told her to try disconnecting her LED pods, she did so and everything came back to life. I think she didn't tighten the terminals back up enough, but she decided to get rid of the LED pods for just in case. Anyway, it has fired up and runs fine ever since.
 
Spyderwolf... I don't think he was going to be back until late this evening. I don't imagine I'll hear anything until tomorrow. Ken krb1945
 
It is at the dealer...

for diagnostics. He tried everything we suggested and the engine light would not go out. I will let you know when they know something. /Ken krb1945
 
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