syn or blend oil

[Vic]

Confused here 2014 1330 motor which is better syn or blend oil ?

 

[Chupaca]

Choices, choices

Comes with a synthetic blend that works well and I have used since new. You will find that most here will recommend many synthetic, full synthetic oils and they are said to be better. So if you opt to go with the full synthetic you will have to choose from the many. BajaRon, a sponsor vendor here on the home page, carries the Amsoil which is a very good one. He also has the filters and much more....:thumbup:

 

[Easy Rider]

Confused here 2014 1330 motor which is better syn or blend oil ?

Unless maybe you plan to run your Spyder for a million miles or so, there probably is no way you could ever tell the difference.

Really. Honestly.

Synthetic is better for really SEVERE service and really EXTREME temperatures, things that most people likely never encounter.

In an engine that already is ~4 years old, there is no good reason to change from one to the other.

 

[BajaRon]

Synthetic oils do a better job of lubricantion. That's why they put a little in with standard oil and call it 'Blended'. More of the better stuff is always better than just a little. With a fully synthetic lubricant your engine will run cooler, you'll get less wear, your transmission will shift better, and you can go further between oil changes and still maintain superior protection.

A true synthetic oil, like Amsoil, is better than a mineral based oil with an additive package (also deemed 'Synthetic' in the USA).

A truly honest discussion will not be about which oil is better. But whether or not you need a better oil. And this is where the opinions vary greatly. This is the arena into which all upgrade decisions ultimately are determined.

 

[2dogs]

Yep, what Ron said..........

Amsoil 10w40 for 9k miles with Ron's oil filters. Couldn't do better if I tried. Had my oil analyzed three times, @ 3k,6k,and 9k. At 9k it was still good and held viscosity at 20w. Used Napa to analyze the oil each time. Cost is about $15 each time and they will tell you all you need to know about your oil.

 

[Deanna777]

Confused here 2014 1330 motor which is better syn or blend oil ?

I have a 2014RTS-SE6 and I run the full Synthetic, Valvoline 4T Stroke Full Synthetic SAE 10W-40.

It's formulated for specific needs of motorcycles including high temperatures, high RPM's, and wet clutch systems. Outstanding wet clutch protection for maximum power transfer and smooth shifting. Add protection against harmful deposits that can decrease engine performance. Excellent wear corrosion protection to help keep the engine performance best.

Exceeds API Services SJ/SG/SF, JASO MA2.


I have not had any problems, I change the oil every year.

Deanna

 

[Joel The Biker]

Full synthetic

I just did my second oil change since owning my spyder. Went with full synthetic Mobil 4T and it does make a difference. Smoother shifts and is running cooler, even with the 90 degree heat today.

 

[Easy Rider]

A true synthetic oil, like Amsoil, is better than a mineral based oil with an additive package (also deemed 'Synthetic' in the USA).

The mineral based product that is allowed to be called "synthetic" doesn't JUST have different additives. It is further refined or refined differently so that it holds it's viscosity better and some extra impurities are removed.

And on a side note, Amsoil is no better (or worse) than any other true synthetic ester based oil.
They have kind of gotten away from that claim recently but for a LONG time they claimed superiority to justify higher prices.

 

[BajaRon]

And on a side note, Amsoil is no better (or worse) than any other true synthetic ester based oil.
They have kind of gotten away from that claim recently but for a LONG time they claimed superiority to justify higher prices.

It is true that there are other 'True Full Synthetic', ester based lubricants comparable to Amsoil out there. Amsoil is just a well known example of a true synthetic oil. That is why I said; 'Like Amsoil'.

I may have missed it. But I do not recall seeing where Amsoil claims to be better than any ester based oil. They do tout their product. But I think you will find this true of any manufacturer. I tout my products. It's the way it's done.

As for cost. Refining a true synthetic at the molecular level is a more expensive process than using a mineral based oil with an additive package. I would classify that as a 'Reason' rather than an 'Excuse' to charge more.

You are correct that there are competitors with lubricants equal to Amsoil products. But they are priced pretty much the same as Amsoil.

I don't try to tell anyone which oil they should use. My intended purpose is to give people as many facts as I can so they can make an informed decision. I sell Amsoil at my actual dealer cost. I do not make anything on the oil. I like Amsoil and for those who want to use it. I try to make it as painless as possible.

 

[Vic]

oils

thank you all for taking the time with your input on this matter.

 

[Zoot]

I used to work for a major oil company and one day I called up a guy who worked with lube oils and asked him about syn blends. His take was that blends were a waste of money, they are typically something like only 10% synthetic. The real advantage of synthetics is resistance to coking, or carbon buildup due to heat. If you still have 90% mineral oil in your system you will still get about as much coking as if you used straight mineral oil.

 

[BajaRon]

I used to work for a major oil company and one day I called up a guy who worked with lube oils and asked him about syn blends. His take was that blends were a waste of money, they are typically something like only 10% synthetic. The real advantage of synthetics is resistance to coking, or carbon buildup due to heat. If you still have 90% mineral oil in your system you will still get about as much coking as if you used straight mineral oil.

I have to agree 100%. In my opinion, blended oil is more a marketing maneuver than a genuine upgrade.

Think of it this way. You could take 90% tap water and add 10% of the highest grade spring water or other excellent water product possible. How much improvement would that actual make? Do you really think that adding 10% excellent product to any 90% lesser product is going to make a huge difference?

Though this gentleman was correct that coking (carbon buildup) is a primary issue with non synthetic oils. There is more to it than this. Mineral oil tends to shear or break down sooner. Synthetic oil adheres to parts better so you have more lubrication where you need it at startup. Full synthetic oil is better at preventing metal to metal contact than blended oils. It also flows better at low temperatures and will give you better protection for more miles. In my opinion, it is well worth going to a full synthetic oil, where you get 100% of the good stuff as opposed to just 10% with a blended oil.

As a disclaimer. Please, DO NOT drink your oil! No matter HOW GOOD it is!

 

[Deadass]

Back in the early 80’s Amsoil was the goto synthetic oil of choice as there wasn’t a lot of synthetic oil to choose from back then. I used it in my VW Rabbit GTI but left it when it went to $9 per litre (metric system here in Canada). I haven’t purchased my Spyders as of yet but when I do I will be using synthetic oil with Amsoil being the number 1 choice for me. I would love to run them on synthetic oil right from the get go. Due to the high cost of these vehicles is there really a better choice to extend their longevity?

 

[h0gr1der]

One thing I recall that hasn't been discussed came from my air cooled twin days, and that's oil in extreme failure mode. Synthetics keep lubricating long after regular oil has fried out. That was a big issue with the v-twin riding in parade conditions (think Sturgis), it's oil getting excessively hot. Check out the temperature ratings on regular vs synthetic, even the group III base stock synthetic oils do better than regular oils in this aspect.

 

[Gilly]

I also have a 1999 Kawasaki 1500 Vulcan Nomad (with 145,000 klm's) . I was told by a Amsoil rep , that Amsoil was the ONLY oil that you DON"T HAVE to change before you store your wheels for the winter . That's about six mounts here in CANADA . What are your thoughts on this ??

 

[happyspyder2039]

Peanut oil is the best! Gives the exhaust a nice fry chicken smell when you get on the gasss...

 

[2dogs]

This was an excellent oil thread until...........................................

 

[BajaRon]

I also have a 1999 Kawasaki 1500 Vulcan Nomad (with 145,000 klm's) . I was told by a Amsoil rep , that Amsoil was the ONLY oil that you DON"T change before you store your wheels for the winter . That's about six mounts here in CANADA . What are your thoughts on this ??

I sell Amsoil. And I would say this answer from the Amsoil rep is patently false. Lubricants have come a long way in the last few decades. Horsepower per cubic inch has gone way up, increasing internal pressures on components. More and more close tolerance hydraulic valves and solenoid components are used in today's engines that require very good lubricants to function properly. Not to mention, internal temperatures have risen as well. Lubricants have done a great job keeping up with the ever increasing demands that these engines place on motor oil.

This rule of thumb to change oil before storage came from the days when it was imperative to prevent internal damage. However, this is no longer as true as it used to be. Though motor oil is not naturally able to prevent rust or corrosion. More than adequate protection can be engineered into a lubricant. I do not have a list of which oils will protect an engine in storage. But Amsoil is not alone in this. There are others.

Amsoil describes a bit of what I am talking about. This statement refers to their 20w-50 MFC (motorcycle) oil. Other than viscosity, this is pretty much identical to the 10w-40 Amsoil I sell to Spyder owners. Interestingly, this Amsoil statement does not claim to be the only oil with rust prohibiters. And by inference, meaning a pre-storage oil change is not necessary

Motorcycles are prone to rust from storage, humidity and short drives. Rust can cause major damage such as roller bearing failure, uncontrolled wear, compression loss and blow-by. Good rust protection, however, comes by design and is not natural to engine oils. Unlike many motorcycle oils, AMSOIL MCV contains special anti-rust agents. It passes the ASTM D-1748 humidity cabinet rust test and clearly demonstrates superior rust protection (see photos below).


Amsoil -------------------------------Castrol

The one thing I do not like about some of Amsoil's test results (this one as example) is that they do not always provide enough information about the competitors lubricant to be sure we are seeing an Apples to Apples comparison. This, to me, is a bit suspicious. Like cherry picking the results. As an Amsoil dealer, I know there is a good deal of skepticism about Amsoil products. And I think this kind of 'Test' result adds to customer doubts. So I post this more as a response to the OP's question than as any sales pitch for Amsoil. I don't mind being honest about Amsoil. Or any other product I carry. You don't want to buy 'Snake Oil'. And I don't want to sell Snake Oil.

If you would like to view the entire article you can see it here.
http://www.harley-performance.com/amsoil-mcv.html

I will say this. I let my Spyder sit for over 2 years, maybe closer to 3 years, with the same Amsoil which already had over 5,300 miles on it when I parked it. I know, I could be turned in for Spyder abuse! And I am not recommending anyone do this! But to make a point about Amsoil. I put another 500 miles or so on that old oil when I finally got my Spyder running again, and had it analyzed by BlackStone Labs. The results were great and virtually identical to previous test results. Rust or damage to metal parts would definitely be reflected if present. So, to me, this verifies that Amsoil is doing the job. But not that other oils will not do as well. Though, as demonstrated in the pictures above. Not all oils will give this level of protection.

Browsing around the Internet for information on this I stumbled upon this independent video comparing Amsoil to Royal Purple (which is a very good lubricant). I've watched several videos by this guy on a variety of products. It is a bit long. I think he does this to verify that he isn't cutting corners or biasing the results. But you can skip through using the slide bar to the results along the way. I thought it was pretty interesting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2zS8MyvJxU

 

[Gilly]

:agree: with BajaRon , I've been in the Marine business for a good many years . I've seen the difference between good and cheep oil. I don't care on the price of a good oil , especially if i only change it once a year. If i'm lucky enough to get the time to put the klm's on , that i need to change it twice . Then it will be well worth it . I guess it was a great summer. Sorry ... just my 2 cents ..

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks Ron - the testing imho was factual .... Mike hyea: