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syn or blend oil
- Thread starter Vic
- Start date
BajaRon
Well-known member
There are advantages to a premium, true synthetic oil. The down side is usually price. I do what I can in that regard. And I try to dispel misconceptions like believing that you can't put another brand in if you need to add oil on a trip and can't find Amsoil. This is not a problem. Amsoil gets along just fine with other lubricants. Or that you can't put a fully synthetic oil in a high mileage engine. It is amazing how persistent these kinds of ideas are in respect to just about any product.
In a pinch, if you ever get in one, you can use any oil designated for diesel engines. Cheap-O diesel engine oil generally will not have the additives in it that modern gas engine oils have in them. Be sure and change out your oil and put the good stuff back in it ASAP. The little two banger Rotax engines burn oil, the three bangers don't, or at least they shouldn't.
carbonation
New member
By your own information, that oil was no longer good.
It may have had TBN left (acid buffer) and anti-wear additives in sufficient quantities (Zinc, Phosphorus, Ti, Moly) but failed in viscosity.
9000 miles is way too long in a shared sump engine.
You'll counter with "yeah but Can-Am tested it, blah, blah."
I call bovine scat. Can-Am only has a responsibility to make sure the thing gets to 2 years and one day of warranty. They know their market, it's a recreational vehicle that will likely never see 100k miles. That 9k change interval is a marketing tool, not what the Rotax engineers would have decided.
For example, the old 998 twin was also used in the Aprilia line of bikes. Only change was tune, and 6 speeds, where we had 5 and a reverse.
Aprilia stuck with the Rotax recommendation of 15w50, CanAm recommended their 5w40 in it.
Each rider will do what they will, it's your machine. But you are not doing the equipment any favors by running oil that long.
What was the viscosity at 3k, and 6k? No doubt you'll begin to see a pretty steady decline in viscosity at 100c at those intervals.
Ask yourself, if CanAm wanted a 20 weight protecting the moving parts, why not just start with that? Plenty of stout 20 weights out there. Would you change the oil, and replace it with 5w20? Yeah, everyone would shy away from that, but you are OK with a 20 weight spinning around in there at 7000 miles.
Wear occurs when the oil film breaks down, or the dirt particles are larger than the oil film itself.
Some oils will be a bit better, some way worse at viscosity retention.
But rest assured, AmSoil, Redline, Motul, BelRay, or WhizBang will all break down over time.
It's the nature of any multi-viscosity oil, ie, 10w40.
I like AmSoil, I like BajaRon, there is no insult to either intended. Both are fine products, and vendors.
But you are seriously better off running off the shelf Rotella 15w40 or Valvoline 10w40 conventional and changing at 4500 to 5000 than 9k intervals of any synthetic, for the longest life of the equipment and to protect the gearset from micro pitting.
carbonation
New member
Sorry to keep quoting you.
Diesel oils, since the CK designation a couple years back, are much more like gas engine oils now.
Lower Z and P, so the DPF, (soot trap) lasts longer and regens are reduced.
Older diesel oils ( there are still a few CJ oils) has much higher levels of anti-wear additives, and were actually very good for motorcycle engines if changed regularly. CK diesel oils will usually have more anti-wear additives in them than car oils, but generally fall between car and motorcycle oils as far as zinc, phosphorus, boron and titanium adds. They will have more anti-foam agents (silicon).
If you still want a VERY stout diesel oil, go get some JohnDeere Plus 50 II.
CK Rotella (current version) still has CJ levels of additives, very stout oils. PQIA just reviewed the 3 majors diesel offerings. In order for MC use, Rotella, Delvac, and I'd pass on Delo. https://pqia.org/2020/05/05/a-look-at-delo-delvac-and-rotella-sae-15w-40-heavy-duty/
Rotella beats some motorcycle oils in add pack, and it's made from Shell's slack wax process. It just will do the job fine if changed on regular intervals.
Long ago, I'm talking the 70's, the Shell plant in WoodRiver, IL bottled Rotella and Suzuki oil on the same line, same product.
500 quarts of Rotella, 500 quarts of Suzuki from the same batch and tap. Same date codes on the bottom, different boxes and bottles. Diesel oils have been going into motorcycle sumps for long time.
redrazor
Member
Being a Diesel Mechanic for over 25 years, I used either Rotella 15-40 or Dello 15-40 in every vehicle I owned; up until we purchased a 2016 Hyundai Genesis G80 a couple of years ago.
Since we (wifey and I) want to keep the extended warranty in tackt; I have told the Service Station Mech to use the fully synthetic Mobil 1 5-30w in the oil changes he does for me and my retired self's Genesis. **(not the 5-20w) "pee oil" that it came with. It's a 2 hr job to do it myself with all the under panels (tupperware) and other crap to get to the oil filter and drain plugs; soo I pay the guy $25 for his time to do the job with all the parts and oil I bring to him. I do believe I'll use the suggested Amsoil 10-40w that Baja Ron suggests when I change my 2014 RT LTD from now on. Thanks to all for their input on this subject.:thumbup:
filgolfnut
New member
Very useful info. Thanks
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