• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

switched power wiring question

T

tomvolk

New member
Ok

I feel like an idiot--but I have been unable to identify a switched power wire near the battery area. I have wired a Centech fuse panel into the battery and mounted it where it is easy to get at--but I have the Centech2 which (along with an auxilary relay) allows for 3 always- on circuitss and 2 switched . I simply need a positive wire that is only powered when the bike is turned on!

I played with several wiring harnesses but was unable to identify a single switched wire. I heard lots of relays turning on and off in the front of the bike--and got some inconsistent readings. Anyway--I have wired a lot of bikes and this one has (for now ) forced me to wire for 'always on' power only.

Anybody know of a switched wire easily available in the battery area?


Thanks

Tom Volk

Black 2010 RTS
I have all the left side body work off --no problem. I also took off the seat---new Corbin heated seat due in 2 weeks!
 
Only switched power I know off is the front trunk auxiliary plug .I'm sure there are more.
Have the Corbin heated seat as well and is an easy install. Just be careful when you route the fused wire as my seat pinched the wire and shorted the fuse.
 
fastfraser said:
Only switched power I know off is the front trunk auxiliary plug .I'm sure there are more.
Have the Corbin heated seat as well and is an easy install. Just be careful when you route the fused wire as my seat pinched the wire and shorted the fuse.
Click to expand...
On the RT the trunk plugs are not switched like they are on the RS.

tomvolk said:
Ok

I feel like an idiot--but I have been unable to identify a switched power wire near the battery area. I have wired a Centech fuse panel into the battery and mounted it where it is easy to get at--but I have the Centech2 which (along with an auxilary relay) allows for 3 always- on circuitss and 2 switched . I simply need a positive wire that is only powered when the bike is turned on!

I played with several wiring harnesses but was unable to identify a single switched wire. I heard lots of relays turning on and off in the front of the bike--and got some inconsistent readings. Anyway--I have wired a lot of bikes and this one has (for now ) forced me to wire for 'always on' power only.

Anybody know of a switched wire easily available in the battery area?


Thanks

Tom Volk

Black 2010 RTS
I have all the left side body work off --no problem. I also took off the seat---new Corbin heated seat due in 2 weeks!
Click to expand...
I think your best bet is something fed through the load shedding relay. If you have an RTS, about the only thing I see in that neighborhood is the light green/gray 18g wire that feeds the positive terminal on the rear heated grip switch positive ("A") terminal. Beyond that it looks like you will have to wire back to the front or tap into the lights. Sorry I can't advise you further, my RTS went into the shop before my auxiliary fuse block arrived, so I haven't had it available to wire.
 
I think your best bet is something fed through the load shedding relay. If you have an RTS, about the only thing I see in that neighborhood is the light green/gray 18g wire that feeds the positive terminal on the rear heated grip switch positive ("A") terminal. Beyond that it looks like you will have to wire back to the front or tap into the lights. Sorry I can't advise you further, my RTS went into the shop before my auxiliary fuse block arrived, so I haven't had it available to wire.[/QUOTE]

This is the wire that I used on mine. Works great. :D
 
afternoon playing with RTS wiring

Thanks for the info. I spent the afternoon trying to find a switched wire. Could not find one . Tried playing with green/ gray--but it apparently does not switch on . Had several major connectors disconnected to try to find an appropriate wire. no luck. I will simply live with full time power--no problem.

I finished wiring in the fuse box directly to battery--I'll simply have to remember to turn off heated seat when I wire it in (waiting on Corbin). Have GPS and cigarette plug now wired in (put cigarette outlet into small tank compartment so I can charge my phone and still get to it !)

I got the trailer wiring harness from the dealer in the mail yesterday. I wired it to hook up with my trailer. Have not tested it yet but pretty sure there will be no issues. Again--thanks for all who helped with pin out on harness.

Sorry (and a bit worried) that there seem to be issues with the RTS. My son drove it back from dealer last Sat so we only have 80 miles on it. No problems except really bad gas mileage. I am probably the only person who has bought a RTS who has never ridden one (or even the standard Spyder!) and will not be able to ride for another 6-8 weeks (had shoulder surgery 2.5 weeks ago). This leaves me with doing one handed projects on the bike and letting my son ride it! (no riding rfor anybody at the moment since I have it apart and am waiting on Corbin)

Also --working on a custom fuel cell to fit into the front trunk. I am sending a rough drawing to Fuel Safe (they are one of our vendors and also have done motorcycle tanks). It appears that the front trunk is the logical (and somewhat safer that elsewhere) location for a fuel cell ---unless you simply want to put one on the passenger seat. I am not sure how this project will go but will keep everyone informed.

One other thing-- just ordered Grip Puppies. These are simply thin foam grips that slip over the existing grips. I am on my second set on my BMW LT and my son and RPW General Manager all use them on their bikes. I have large hands and appreciate the feel and slightly larger diameter . They work great with heated grips. We do not sell these--I just like them and they are $10 including shipping.

All these projects because I can not ride for a while.
 
Please keep in mind that this wire is only live when the engine is running. Just turning the key on is not going to give you a live wire.
 
manoman14 said:
Please keep in mind that this wire is only live when the engine is running. Just turning the key on is not going to give you a live wire.
Click to expand...

I have that same Centech AP-2 fuse box on my spyder. When I installed the wire harness and relay from the battery, I ran the switched power lead to one of the tail lights for the relay trigger. This gives you a switched 12v source when the ignition is turned on. This always worked fine on my spyder. I hope this helps.
 
I am in the process of installing a set of MotorLights on my wifes RT AC. I am using the red/orange wire, as my tirgger wire, that supplies power for the back light on the analog gauges. This is an easy access on the left side. There are two orange wires so make sure that you get the one with the red tracer and verify before connecting. This is also a delay circut so the power will be on for a few seconds after the key is turned off.
 
Switched Wire near battery

I originally wired in a Blue Sea fuse block and tied into the light green/gray striped wire that feeds the passenger heated hand grip. (auto relay used for switched power) Worked fine, but I decided to pull the whole thing out and now have it mounted in the front trunk behind the liner since most of my accessories will be located up front (GPS, heated gear control and Voltage Gauge). The only accessory I mounted near the battery is my bike alarm which is hooked directly to the battery and fits nicely under the seat, directly behind the battery. The blinking alarm LED was mounted in the plug that is meant to be removed when you install a passenger intercom hookup.

I would recommend using the passenger handrail heater green/gray wire because if it blows no real loss.
 
Last edited:
manoman14 said:
Please keep in mind that this wire is only live when the engine is running. Just turning the key on is not going to give you a live wire.
Click to expand...

I have been working on this for two hours and just realized what you said. I did not have the engine running! Man do I feel stupid!
 
Fuse Panel Location

I located mine in the front trunk but there is room on the left side body panels and you don't have to run wiring and connectors into/out of the trunk.

Lonnie
 
Thanks!

Thanks to all --I found the switched wire --and remembered to test it with the engine running!

My Corbin seat is due this week and I will finalize the underseat location of the Centech fuse box after I check the clearance.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Hound
More wiring questions - looking for switched power for relay?
Replies
7
Views
2K
Hound
Hound
A
After some Guidance on how to route wiring in my example?
Replies
1
Views
144
chipveres
C
jzeiler
Found some chafed wiring on my brand new 2024 RTL - anyone else?
Replies
4
Views
629
djh3
djh3
T
Need help/advice with GPS Installation - 2013 RT
Replies
1
Views
1K
NorwegianRT
NorwegianRT
sledge
Battery Dead, seat not opening - does it need power to open?
2
Replies
38
Views
5K
sledge
sledge
Back
Top