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SWITCHED POWER SOURCE - Spyder RT - S ( SE5 2010 Model)

eddieshep999

Active member
I am thinking of fitting a new Horn to replace the original one
I will use the STEBEL Nautilus Air Horn COMPACT

I was going to wire it direct from the battery via a Relay but as its not
likley to be my last accessory so I have decided to fit a
FZ-1 Fuseblock see link

http://www.fuzeblocks.com/

I need to find out the following :-

Where to take a Switched Power Source from my Spyder RT -S 2010 Model

The installation instructions state -


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Connect a 12 to 18 gauge wire (18 gauge is usually[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]more than sufficient) from the +VT input (J1) to a[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]switched power source on the vehicle.[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]A switched power source is a wire that is +12 VDC when the vehicle is on and 0 VDC when the vehicle is off. [/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Refer to your service manual, local mechanic and/or internet forum* (*This is where your assistance is needed) to find a[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]suitable switched source for your particular vehicle and[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]for the best procedure on tapping the wire.[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]The switched source is used to energize the FZ-1's relay coil (about[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]1A) which will cause the relay contacts to close and supply +12VDC from the battery to the switched +12V output bus.[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]I intend to fit this Fuseblock near to the front of the Spyder to allow [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]easy access - under one of the front service panels if enough room
[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]If someone can advise me the best access to get the switch power source from this would be helpful
[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Thanks
[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Eddie Sheppard
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Reading UK
[/FONT]





 
Switched Power Source

I tapped into the orange wire that is attached to the fuel gauge pod. I had disconnected the OEM dash gauges in favour of the digital readouts on the Spyder's dash screen. The gauges were replaced with a voltmeter and ambient air temperature gauge.

Another switched source that I had used on my fuse block was located in the heated passenger grip switch.
 
I tapped the light green/gray wire that runs to the light in the switch for the passenger heated grips.
 
i wonder as well about how much I can get under the battery terminal screw.

will see if there is a multipoint to single point adapter that I can use and wire the horn, gps, anything else onto the adapter and the adapter onto the battery. thought I saw one somewhere before
 
i wonder as well about how much I can get under the battery terminal screw.

will see if there is a multipoint to single point adapter that I can use and wire the horn, gps, anything else onto the adapter and the adapter onto the battery. thought I saw one somewhere before
It is not recommended to put more than one or two additional connectors on the battery terminals.
 
Look at the "PowerLet Termin-8"
It should simplify adding future connections.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 
thinking something like this

http://www.marine-products.com/marinco-battery-terminals-multi-connector-12vtr.html

12vt.jpg
 
I prefer a fuse block. The Eastern Beaver 3CS has three circuits, ground connections, fuses, and plug-in connectors. It is relay switched, and can be diode protected. Their PC-8 has even more available circuits.
 
PC-8 kit...

I used a 30" PC-8 kit with slighly modified +/- leads to the battery. I mounted the fuse panel on the center rail, under my Corbin seat in the recess where the backrest mounts. With a standard seat you'll have to mount it up front which will require long leads, or behind the battery.
 
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