Suddenly, Tach is reading high?? Anybody have a clue?

[PJveetwin]

Out of the blue, my tach is off on my 2021 RTLT. Normal idle should be 800 RPM and is now reading 1150. Still sounds like a normal 800. At 65, it should be around 3000, but is now reading 3900. Everything else seems to be normal. Anybody have a clue? Thanks in advance!

 

[Jetfixer]

As in any other electrical issue on a Spyder, make sure your battery terminal connections are tight and clean. Earlier models, (prior to 2017), utilized BUDS, which had a method to adjust the display needles for tachometer and speedometer. However, since 2017 all Spyders utilize BUDS2. I have not found the similar setting in BUDS2. I would start by checking for fault codes, and then do a TPS reset using BUDS2. You may need to confirm your suspicions using another tachometer.

 

[BertRemington]

Two other considerations:

1 -- did you recently add any electrical accessories or other changes?

2 -- if you are using the heated grips, try turning them off.

 

[PJveetwin]

Thanks for the 2 replies! So, up on my battery being in good condition and tight, along with Dielectric grease. Using a Yuasa AGM. I also alway's leave it on a battery tender even when riding it daily. I have added an electric vest from day one, wired directly off the battery and even use it on short rides this time of year. Grips and seat are usually on low. The RPM thing is not constant and goes back and forth . So will try turning everything off the next time it happens. I have thought about connecting a tach to it, but seriously, I have no clue where the coil is and if it's possible. The bike has just over 8000 miles and only recently started doing it. It's not the end of the world what it's doing, but on these high tech computer operated machines, it could be s sign of something bad around the corner. If I had a dealer closer than 100 miles, I would just swing by, but it's a serious effort on my part.

 

[K80Shooter]

Thanks for the 2 replies! So, up on my battery being in good condition and tight, along with Dielectric grease. Using a Yuasa AGM. I also alway's leave it on a battery tender even when riding it daily. I have added an electric vest from day one, wired directly off the battery and even use it on short rides this time of year. Grips and seat are usually on low. The RPM thing is not constant and goes back and forth . So will try turning everything off the next time it happens. I have thought about connecting a tach to it, but seriously, I have no clue where the coil is and if it's possible. The bike has just over 8000 miles and only recently started doing it. It's not the end of the world what it's doing, but on these high tech computer operated machines, it could be s sign of something bad around the corner. If I had a dealer closer than 100 miles, I would just swing by, but it's a serious effort on my part.

Off topic but.... It's hard reading your posts with your avatar staring at me like that...lol roflmao On topic, I hope you get it sorted out.

 

[BertRemington]

The 1330 engine is coil-on-plug/ignitor-on-plug and if the 2021 is anything like my 2014 buried under the air boxes. And there really isn't a tap point unless you have a current-sensing oscilloscope.

Are you absolutely sure the engine speed is not changing when the tachometer does? The reason I ask is there could be an air leak causing mixture issues. Also the MAPTS or CAPS sensors might be acting up although at 8K miles that's kinda early.

It's probably time to look for someone with the BUDS2 diagnostic tool.

 

[PJveetwin]

The 1330 engine is coil-on-plug/ignitor-on-plug and if the 2021 is anything like my 2014 buried under the air boxes. And there really isn't a tap point unless you have a current-sensing oscilloscope.

Are you absolutely sure the engine speed is not changing when the tachometer does? The reason I ask is there could be an air leak causing mixture issues. Also the MAPTS or CAPS sensors might be acting up although at 8K miles that's kinda early.

It's probably time to look for someone with the BUDS2 diagnostic tool.

I appreciate the possible issue here. So yes, I did focus on engine sound especially at idle, it was easy to tell it was not around 900 RPM. I did try something yesterday. I realized I have been leaving both the seat and grips on low when I turn off the bike, then later restart. After Bert mentioning this possibility. I did around 100 miles yesterday starting and stopping and restarting many times while having the grips and seat off the entire time. It never did it again. Today, if it doesn't rain, I'll go out again and try turning them on after the bike has been started. What it's worth, I did use my electric vest most of the time, but it's wired direct off the battery.