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substitute

There was a recent poll taken regarding oil usage. I think that AmSoil came out as the most popular replacement to the OEM dino-squeezings...
 
There was a recent poll taken regarding oil usage. I think that AmSoil came out as the most popular replacement to the OEM dino-squeezings...


Really ??? So now I know you don't read my posts Bob !!! :roflblack::roflblack:
 
What kind of oil could be a substitute

How many miles is on your Spyder? Is it an RS or RT? Is it a SE5 or SM5? If you go to an oil like AMSOIL you shoud have about 9,000 to 10,000 miles on a SPIDER or if you use a blended oil you can use any motorcycle oil that meets BRP spec. I use oil filters from BajaRon (he has a add posted on the home page) He great to vendor to buy from. That's IMHO.


Mike
 
Why would you suggest that someone would need 10,000 miles on their Spyder to use "an oil like Amsoil"? The notion that synthetic oil is somehow 'too slippery' is just plain silly. Really. The original GS' required a BRP full synthetic oil. BRP now specs a synthetic blend. There were/are no mileage minimum requirements.

Folks should use whatever oil they like, as long as it meets BRP minimum requirements. I prefer a full syn over any blends, it is much more tolerant of high temperatures. Make sure it's rated for a wet clutch. Mileage, model, and method of shifting don't really matter.........

:agree: That you don't really have to get a lot of miles on your Spyder before switching to Amsoil. The reason is because your Rotax engine (like nearly all modern engines) receive most of the breaking in process at the factory. The small amount of breaking in that remains is complete by the time the 1st oil change is due. It isn't like the old days where you got a new car with piston/rings not yet seated.

If the rings on your Rotax are not seated by the time you need your 600 mile service, they never will.

It is true that authentic Synthetic oils, like Amsoil, will virtually stop any metal to metal wear. With a brand new engine (say a rebuild from a machine shop) you would defintely want to get a few hundred miles on it before using Amsoil. The Amsoil literature will even tell you not to use their oil until the piston/rings have been properly seated.

And I also agree that as long as the oil meets BRP specs. it should do an adequate job. Still, there is no doubt that a true synthetic, Ester based oil is superior in every aspect to the doctored dyno oil with a label that says 'Full Synthetic'.
 
Really ??? So now I know you don't read my posts Bob !!! :roflblack::roflblack:
I might read them... but my memory keeps losing them! :gaah:
:opps: Truthfully I wasn't exactly sure who won that little battle, but I recalled a bunch of folks liking AmSoil; myself included! (from my 2-stroke days though...)
 
On our first Spyder, I used Royal Purple 10W40 Automotive Synthetic, starting at 3000 miles. I got a little flack from the "pros" that my warranty would be voided, transmission start slipping, etc. None of that happened. In fact, after 43,000 miles when I traded it for the RT, the tech checked the valves and found them all to be within tolerance. That was the first and only time they had been looked at. So, the RT is using the same oil. The only thing I worry about is getting enough time to ride like I would like to.
 
On our first Spyder, I used Royal Purple 10W40 Automotive Synthetic, starting at 3000 miles. I got a little flack from the "pros" that my warranty would be voided, transmission start slipping, etc. None of that happened. In fact, after 43,000 miles when I traded it for the RT, the tech checked the valves and found them all to be within tolerance. That was the first and only time they had been looked at. So, the RT is using the same oil. The only thing I worry about is getting enough time to ride like I would like to.
See what happens when retired gentlement go back to work! :D
 
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