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998cc Stuck in 3rd gear

Eckhard

Member
2011 RT Ltd. SE5

Went for a ride yesterday and got on the throttle quite hard in 3rd gear. Noticed a funny vibration. When I came to my next stop it wouldn't down shift any more. Or so it seems. The indicator is constantly displaying 3rd gear. Engine was still running but when I went to start off it would bog down for a couple of seconds and then try to shoot off. If I ease off on the throttle when it bogs I can get it rolling by giving a bit more gas. Requires some finesse.

Stopped by a garage and let it sit 10 minutes and checked the oil. 1/8" up from the fill line. Couldn't get the right kind of oil so I started it again and managed to struggle home.

The screen didn't flash any codes.

Any thoughts???
 
Couple....

First check to see (left side engine) if the shifting arm is loose on the shift shaft. Many have come loose and will no longer shift. Other problems would be the paddle shifter or the actuators. You can manually shift using a wrench on the shaft....: this can get you in a better gear to get around suggerst second. :thumbup:
 
Shift arm seems loose. I removed the bolt but can't get the little lever off. I need to make a little puller it seems to be able to bear against the shaft and pull the arm. Anyone have any other suggestions?
 
Well I found a small puller, for battery terminals, that I could modify to pull off the shift arm. Shift arm splines are stripped so I ordered a new shift arm. Not in stock of course so it will take 2-3 days.

I managed to use some vise grips to turn the shaft and get it into Neutral. Now I am concerned that the splines are damaged. I'll have to clean and check them. Maybe dress them up a bit.

Stay tuned.
 
When you get your new shift arm look on the shaft and you will see a dot punched in the end of the shaft. Align the arm with using the split in the arm with the dot. While waiting for the arm to arrive take the bolt to the hardware store and get a new one long enough to go all the way thru the arm and put a nylock nut on the end so it can't come loose again. That is how I fixed mine.
 
When you get your new shift arm look on the shaft and you will see a dot punched in the end of the shaft. Align the arm with using the split in the arm with the dot. While waiting for the arm to arrive take the bolt to the hardware store and get a new one long enough to go all the way thru the arm and put a nylock nut on the end so it can't come loose again. That is how I fixed mine.

AND----- consider Grade 5 hardware.

Lew L
 
Hardware, it's metric and I found some 12.9 grade 6 x 1, 30mm long unplated bolts at the local auto place. They have NYLOC nuts as well but I think the bolts will be too short for that. I'll use regular nuts and some LOCTITE.
 
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Eckhard, I had the same symptoms and replacing the shift arm and bolt corrected it. I did add checking and tightening that bolt to my annual Spring pre-flight checklist.
 
I reckon there's a chance you can save the splines & shaft... Clean any extraneous &/or loose metal out with a scribe, then dress/clean/re-shape the splines with a fine triangular file or an appropriately sized/pitch thread file. If you still need to after that, you could probably get away with adding just a smidge of lock-tite when you slip the shift lever on. ;)

Or if you're still covered by any sort of warranty for that type of thing, you just might be better off to get the whole thing dismantled & the shaft replaced! :shocked:
 
No warranties anymore, 2011.

Thinking of cleaning up splines and then using a structural epoxy adhesive together with the pinch bolt.

I have to get the black flywheel off to get better access. The parts manual calls for Scotch Grip bolts. What are those?
 
A set of modeling files with a triangle file in it and a good set of magnifying glasses and some patience and you can get them to work. As soft as the shifter is I am surprised you have that kind of damage. When you get the splines in shape enough to put the lever on tighten the pinch bolt extra hard so the lever can't move. Remember to index the lever with the punch mark on the shaft.
 
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