Strange fault code at start up - P0135 - any ideas?

[PJveetwin]

Twice now, weeks apart, when I start the bike, engine light stayed on, then the limp mode warning. checked the codes, and P0135 came up. Cleared, then all is fine. I usually leave it on a Bat tender even when it's being ridden on a regular basis. Both times it was not, but only sat for a few days. Battery is a Yuasa AGM 3 years old. Everything is tight. Can't find the code, but assuming. Spins over strong, guess I should load test it. Is the system that finicky?

 

[Mikey]

Good idea to load test it, and yes, it's that finicky. Good luck

 

[BertRemington]

P0135
ECM
HO2S
internal heater circuit defective
Defective internal heater in lambda sensor
Replace lambda sensor

 

[PJveetwin]

P0135
ECM
HO2S
internal heater circuit defective
Defective internal heater in lambda sensor
Replace lambda sensor

Thank you, now to figure out if it's worth hauling it the 120 miles to the dealer, mess with the extended warranty, or just buy it and do the install myself.

 

[Mikey]

I would test the battery first just for kicks!!! Start with the easy stuff first!! And cheap stuff

 

[Peter Aawen]

Thank you, now to figure out if it's worth hauling it the 120 miles to the dealer, mess with the extended warranty, or just buy it and do the install myself.

Do the load test on the battery first! nojoke

As Mikey mentioned, start with the easy & cheap stuff, and Mikey also as mentioned earlier, YES, the system REALLY IS that finicky when it comes to the quality and quantity of the power it needs to start and run properly! You'd be surprised at how many people have spent $$ chasing codes only to still have issues, often complete failures to start after they've ridden a fair way away from home/easy help too, simply because it was the battery all along!

So load test it before doing anything else, and remember when load testing, these Spyders REALLY ARE extremely power hungry AND finicky - so even if you'd normally accept a battery showing anything above 10.5v under starting loads as being OK, that's just NOT GOOD ENOUGH for a Spyder, what with all the computing power that needs to start & work at the same time the starter is cranking hard/before the alternator kicks in - you need to see 12v or better ALL THE TIME!! :lecturef_smilie:

Besides, even a 2-year-old Yuasa might not be up to providing that sort of power any longer, especially if the battery's spent a lot of its life being kept on a battery tender most of the time - while that's generally better than leaving a battery sit for extended periods when it's flat or partially discharged, failing to regularly use a wad of their charge and then re-charging them solidly before letting them sit for a while like that without a tender connected is still not good for batteries and that failure will shorten a battery's potential life! As will failing to properly prepare the battery & then fully charging it before installation; so unless you did that and so know that it was all done correctly, are you sure it happened at all?? :dontknow:

There's a growing bunch of indicators here suggesting that even if it's not the only thing wrong in this particular instance, there's still a good chance that your battery is no longer doing all it needs to do & providing all the juice it needs to provide all of the time! :banghead:

Just Sayin'

 

[Bfromla]

opcorn: Star washers while you're at it! :2thumbs:

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Thank you, now to figure out if it's worth hauling it the 120 miles to the dealer, mess with the extended warranty, or just buy it and do the install myself.

Keep in mind that an O2 sensor is an emissions component, and thus is covered by a vehicle's emissions warranty. See the warranty information in the back of your owners guide.

However, you have two un-related symptoms. A failure of an O2 sensor's heater circuit DOES NOT cause a Limp Mode. So, there's more going on, and quite possibly battery related. Re-enforcing everything that Peter said. An AGM battery can fail prematurely if it was not given the required activation charge after the acid was added. See the instructions. So, who did the activation? And, certain old school battery tenders can actually shorten the life of a battery, because they don't exercise the battery - they only keep it on a float charge forever, and don't de-sulfate. You get what you pay for in that respect. I like the Optimate and Battery Minder products for that. So, as Peter stated, lets focus on the easy stuff first.

 

[Mikey]

opcorn:

 

[PJveetwin]

I do appreciate the responses here! I did a load test, and was fine, but has also been on a Battery Tender since my last issue. I have a better unit, Nocco brand, 3 amp and a switch for AGM, conventional and Lithium. I have multiple vehicles and use both BT and NOCCO brands. I do believe you get what you pay for. I'm going out of town this morning, back on Sunday afternoon. Was thinking I would remove the charger before I leave and test it again when I get back. This particular battery came new with the bike, so could be an early warning. My other machines are not as finicky. I also have a new Yuasa AGM in dry storage on the shelf. I'm pretty good at confirming what amperage a particular battery requires for the initial charge after adding the acid. My chargers range from 1 amp thru 5, so I can match it up correctly. Thanks again! I will report back.

 

[Mikey]

Myself, I do not use a tender during the summer when I have it out of storage, just for that fact that it gives you a false sense of what your battery's really doing. So, I think you are going in the right direction, take it off the tender and see what it looks like when you get back.

 

[PJveetwin]

Myself, I do not use a tender during the summer when I have it out of storage, just for that fact that it gives you a false sense of what your battery's really doing. So, I think you are going in the right direction, take it off the tender and see what it looks like when you get back.

I probably would not either, even though I can ride 360 days out of the year, but I have 6 cycles I ride, so it's a habit to plug each one back in when I get back from a ride.

 

[Peter Aawen]

I do appreciate the responses here! I did a load test, and was fine, but has also been on a Battery Tender since my last issue. ...... < snip > .....Thanks again! I will report back.

Thanks for the info, but I hafta say that accepting a 'Load Test Result' of OK, GOOD, or even FINE is almost as big of a trap as keeping your batteries on a float charge type tender all the time - almost!! - 'OK', 'Good' and 'Fine' aren't really all that helpful as a measure or indicator of battery condition - what does any of that actually mean?? :dontknow: We need a true measure, and cos it can be difficult to get anything more, and because the 'full detail' might be even more confusing, it's probably safest just to stick with what Volts fid you see . :thumbup:

So while I'm sure that I've posted this before, and I guess I'll probably post it again, it'd still be really helpful to us, and it'd help us to help you and others; as well as maybe even help you directly too; if, when you do report back, you could share the following:

1. the 'resting voltage' of your battery, when it has been sitting unused/not on a tender &/or maintainer for at least 4 hours;
2. the 'ignition voltage', when the ign has been turned on but you're not attempting to start yet;
3. most importantly, the 'actual voltage' level while you're cranking before/as (if) it starts (in volts, to at least 1 decimal place ) cos the battery actually drops to when it is placed under the starting engine & all the computer start-up load, and our Spyders ARE so finnicky that they NEED 12v or better at this stage; and
4. the 'charging voltage' that your battery (& by default, your alternator ) settles down to after starting & when the engine is running at a fast idle (1200rpm+).

It'd be great if you could do that, cos we get lotsa 'Good', 'OK', & even 'Fine' reports as the results of load testing batteries, but they're all subjective and could well mean different things to different people; and we rarely get anything that's readily measurable by most which allows a direct comparison to any others who might also be testing &/or sharing their results.

Thanks in anticipation. hyea:

 

[PJveetwin]

OK, update is, it sat off the tender for 4 days, Battery voltage read 12.2, with a load, read 11.1. Started fine, but engine check light stayed on and limp mode warning came on. Checked fault code, and says, P2135. There is a possibility this is what it was before, as I was out in bright sunlight before. I cleared the code, and started again normal with no fault. Had it on the tender for 2 days afterwards, started fine with no codes. Reading other discussions, Spyders don't like below 12 volts. Interesting the spyder is that finicky, but complicated electronics. Sorry I didn't check voltage at a fast idle. I ride 5 different bikes on a regular basis, no plans to take the spyder out of town in the near future, meaning 100+ miles in any direction. So plans for now, is to keep it on the tender, ride it locally, then before a trip, instal a new battery, check prior to my ride, then roll out. All comments have been appreciated !