Stranded on the road

[SpyderRx]

Installed a set of tricled sender strips last week. First ride since installing and I am sitting at a gas station stranded. Pulled up to the pump and turned off. Would not start back. Battery is dead. A guy jumped me off but made it to the 4 way stop and died again. I have an 09 and as far as I know it's a stock battery. Is it possible the battery is just bad or do you think it's the LEDs? I disconnected them and tried to jump again but it will not hold enough charge to start. My riding partner has gone home to get a truck and trailer. Have about an hour to sit here.

 

[Bob Denman]

:yikes: Ouch! Sorry to hear about your difficulties! :gaah:
LEDs normally draw very little juice; I don't see how they could kill a battery if they're properly hooked up and happy.
This might very well have been the death of an OEM battery at the end of it's useful lifespan and little else... :shocked:

While hooking them up; did you spend a lot of time with the bike powered up and not running? :dontknow:

Good luck getting it home; please let us know what you find! :thumbup:

 

[NancysToy]

If the battery won't charge, it is more likely a dirty or loose connection (inside the bodywork, not under the seat) or a loose rear frame ground (negative jumper terminal under the seat. It could be a bad battery, though, or a loose main relay or blown main fuse (under the seat). Without a voltmeter, it will be hard to check further.

 

[SpyderRx]

Didn't really spend a lot of time with it on but haven't ridden in about 2 weeks. Had ridden about 40 minutes before it died. I hope it is just the battery but it is very coincidental if the case.

 

[asp125]

If the battery connections are good, then you either have a bad battery (they normally die in 3-4yrs) or your charging system isn't charging. As stated before, LEDs draw very little current. If your battery reads full charge after being on a battery charger, and then seems to die after one or two starts - then definitely the battery is no good. Most motorcycle charging systems with the bike running, should have somewhere between 13.6 to 14.0 volts a full charged battery should have 13.6 volts. If it has been sitting for a while it may only show 11 to 12 volts. if you try to start it and the voltage drops below 9 or 10 volts try charging it

 

[SpyderRx]

When you turn the key on the lights and display just blink rapidly for about 3 seconds them everything goes out. Not showing any codes. When I jumped it off before it was showing a battery light and engine light and scrolling check engine across the screen

 

[bruiser]

What Scotty said!!

 

[Bob Denman]

Loose connections are certainly a possibility!
Scotty isn't usually right; he's ALWAYS right! :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

 

[SpyderRx]

Thank you for all the replys. Got it home on the trailer and pushed into the garage. Had the charger on for about an hour now and still will not crank. Charger showing no charge, so I'm thinking bad battery.

 

[jerpinoy]

Buy a new battery and let us know if it work.

 

[elixermixer]

This may not help. We had a stranded problem not long after doing strips as well. Not sure if you removed the fender at all or even tugged on the wires coming out of the fender but we had a clip come lose that holds the wires up under the fender and thus the tire rubbed the fender and caused a short. This prevented the Trike from running for whatever reason it would not let us start because even though we were actuating the break the fuse was dead from the frayed wire and the computer would said we weren't activating the break and the spyder won't start otherwise I guess?

Not sure what other symptoms your having. Is the dash and electronics turning on but the motor not turning over? Ours were, I would imagine if the battery was truly done they would not.
is the motor turning over but not firing to life? (ours in that situation did not turn, again because it was the computer saying we weren't on the break)
are your break lights working? (not the running lights but the break lights)

Food for thought we wish you the best.

Really hope it's jut a bat as electrical demons are no fun and sometimes it feels like it require the ghostbusters to solve.

 

[SpyderRx]

After charging the battery I am only getting around 10 to 10.5 volts reading and the spyder still will not crank. Even putting a jumper on it, everything lights up and boots, hit mode button, hit start and everything just clicks, reboots, and starts whole process again. Am I safe to assume that 10 volts is not enough to crank it. If it is a dead battery will it not allow the jumper to start it either? Thanks for your help!

 

[Bob Denman]

Yup! It's the battery that needs to be replaced.
But you might also want to take the time to check over whatever wiring and connections you worked on so as to make sure that there aren't any shorts that could be the cause of this battery's untimely demise... :shocked:

 

[bill pitman]

I'd try...............

jumping starting the Spyder,
rev to 3000 rpm,
disconnect the "jump-start" battery.
With a voltmeter, check for a charging voltage, something like 13.8 vdc(keep revs up above 3000rpm)
If you connect to the terminals under the seat and get a charging voltage, I would say battery is NG.
If you do not get the charging voltage, start looking elsewhere: wiring,fuse, relay....frayed wires at LED area.

Best of luck, look forward to hearing what out come is.

Bill

 

[NancysToy]

After charging the battery I am only getting around 10 to 10.5 volts reading and the spyder still will not crank. Even putting a jumper on it, everything lights up and boots, hit mode button, hit start and everything just clicks, reboots, and starts whole process again. Am I safe to assume that 10 volts is not enough to crank it. If it is a dead battery will it not allow the jumper to start it either? Thanks for your help!

Bad battery, bad connection, or loose frame ground. First, lift the seat and check the negative jumper terminal with a wrech to see that it is tight. Remember...righty tighty, do not loosen it! If it can be turned, you will likely have to remove the right side body panels, find or make the right tool, say a few cuss words, and hold your mouth just right to tighten it securely...but you may get lucky. The left rear body panel will have to be removed to get at the actual battery terminals. They should be dismantled, cleaned, and tightened. While they are exposed, it is a good time to try to charge the battery again. While it is connected, check the charging voltage. It should be around 14 volts. After charging, let the battery sit for a few hours. It should then read at least 12.7 volts. If not, it is bad.

 

[SpyderRx]

Jumper terminals are tight. Cleaned terminals and wires at battery. Hooked charger directly to battery and only getting 10.3 volts. Feel almost certain it is the battery.

 

[boborgera]

Jumper terminals are tight. Cleaned terminals and wires at battery. Hooked charger directly to battery and only getting 10.3 volts. Feel almost certain it is the battery.

You think??
Change out the battery, It's due any way and when you do get a new one fully [slow] charge it your self.
The salesman will tell you its fully charged but just for kicks make sure and do it your self.

 

[SpyderRx]

Ok, which battery should I go with?

 

[NancysToy]

Jumper terminals are tight. Cleaned terminals and wires at battery. Hooked charger directly to battery and only getting 10.3 volts. Feel almost certain it is the battery.

Yep! Sounds like the battery lost one cell.

 

[boborgera]

Ok, which battery should I go with?

There are more choices than you can shake a stick at, Me i would get one from the dealer.
But if for some reason that's not an option i would then take the old battery to Battery Plus,etc and tell them to mach it.