Stock seat mod gas door

[Bob Denman]

I just noticed that some of the fuel doors have 8 bolts and others have 6...Which is the better fit???

Mine appears to have 8 screws holding it in place... The two at the nine O'clock position just hold the hinges for the door.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

WELLLLLLLLLLLLLLL

Hi Mike ,I ordered the black one and before I drill holes I am having a denser foam install in the front seat area and then recovered with a new skin that I have yet to pick out. being that the door has a lock I was hoping to us the stock cap, glad to know. How many of these have you done, do you do any thing else.

The foam is going under your BUTT :roflblack: .... not where you put the Gas Door :thumbup: ..... The ones I did all had the lock and there wasn't any interference with the OEM gas cap ...... I said 15 and I'm sticking to that number :roflblack::roflblack: ....PS , when you trim the SEAT material inside the DOOR MOUNTING RING .... do NOT trim it close, leave some extra , this little LIP ( so-to-speak ) will prevent the DOOR to go to FAR in...... Also make absolutely sure your SEAT BOLTS are tight and the latch post goes into the hole cleanly. If the seat slides forward, it will contact the glove box :lecturef_smilie: :gaah:..... some Dealers aren't tightening them correctly........ Mike :thumbup:

 

[MOSESS]

Hi Mike

I received the door today , ill head over to home depot to get the bolts thanks. by the way the screws that come with the door look to be to short, thanks again.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

TOO SHORT

I received the door today , ill head over to home depot to get the bolts thanks. by the way the screws that come with the door look to be to short, thanks again.

Well that's because this DOOR is supposed to put on something else - you are entering the DIY world - WELCOME :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:..............Have fun ..... if you have a problem PM me before not after :yikes:...... Mike .....PS, I hope you read posts # 11, 16 & 22 above .....PPS - please post some Pics when you finish :clap:

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: Mike,
I don't remember what the length of the longest screw that I needed was...

...But they all seemed to be different.
Buy them long, and don't forget a fresh hacksaw blade! :thumbup:

 

[MOSESS]

The door is in and works great, there are two size bolts - 6mm thread, the lengths are 12mm and 18mm. I did not have to grind any of the bolts after installation. I also went with button heads so they would match the dash bolts. Now I need to figure out how to post pics.

 

[ceyer69]

Mike,

Do you have any pics? Would like to see the finished product you have done with the t-nuts. Thanks in advance!

I should have mentioned this :banghead::banghead::banghead: ..... Home Depot ( & Lowe's ? ) sells " T " nuts in various thread sizes .... Use these ( with Lock-tite ) to attach door RING instead of Lok-Nuts. Get the size to fit your bolts..........have fun :thumbup:......Mike

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Mike,

Do you have any pics? Would like to see the finished product you have done with the t-nuts. Thanks in advance!

Sorry no, at Home Depot they come in an orange package 4 @ $1.00 in different sizes - they are a threaded cylinder with a large flat top that has gripping teeth to hold them from spinning. Because the plastic is really hard, I actually cut two off and made two smaller with a dremel. The cylinder goes into the hole, so there is very little above the surface if you use the right length bolt or cut them to size. You may have known all this but someone else may not have, plus, I'm not riding! :yikes: :dontknow: Mike :thumbup:

 

[Eagle1]

Just installed gas cap. Works great, I used T nuts without the prongs, no problem.

 

[Bob Denman]

Can you show us a close-up, of the mounting hardware on the inside area of the seat?
Thanks!

 

[Eagle1]

Here is a pic. I drilled the hole so the T nut would go inside. I still have to trim up and cut excess of bolts. But But, very happy. The queen doesn't have to get off the throne.:clap: Happy wife, happy life.:yes:

 

[Bob Denman]

:clap: :2thumbs:

 

[lou49]

Just installed gas cap. Works great, I used T nuts without the prongs, no problem.

looks good! :clap::clap:

 

[Bfromla]

Here's some pics from MOSESS.
Now if I can get it to post upright¿ Looks great. However, you might want to add a Spyder emblem like the ones from Tricled to the door. :clap: Just for looks.

 

[MOSESS]

Thanks again, I am not into the emblem look, but thanks. I have removed most of the emblems. I only wish I could do away with the one on the body work on the side.

 

[larryd]

What are you guys using to cut the big hole in the seat and the seat covering??? I think someone may have been using coffee can and heating it up and melting a hole in the seat covering???

I want to do this over the winter, and I'd like to do it only once...

THANKS in advance... larryd

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

What works

What are you guys using to cut the big hole in the seat and the seat covering??? I think someone may have been using coffee can and heating it up and melting a hole in the seat covering???

I want to do this over the winter and I'd like to only do it once...

THANKS in advance...larryd

I have done 15 doors using different methods. I have used the coffee can method above and it did work, but I have found a better way. You must mount the door RING first, and you only need to melt the SEAT Material before you use a drill for the MOUNTING holes. Do two bolts to hold the RING on; then you can do the others, you don't need to do ALL of them at once. The RING is very, very, sturdy and it won't bend. FOUR bolts will work to hold it permanently (mine did!) I would skip the very long bolts. After the ring is on, use a new RAZOR knife blade and cut the seat material inside the hole; leave a little extra, this prevents the door from going in. Now you can cut the rest of the foam. Use the "T" nuts. Mike :thumbup:

 

[Bfromla]

I have done 15 doors using different methods. I have used the coffee can method above and it did work, but I have found a better way. You must mount the door RING first, and you only need to melt the SEAT Material before you use a drill for the MOUNTING holes. Do two bolts to hold the RING on; then you can do the others, you don't need to do ALL of them at once. The RING is very, very, sturdy and it won't bend. FOUR bolts will work to hold it permanently (mine did!) I would skip the very long bolts. After the ring is on, use a new RAZOR knife blade and cut the seat material inside the hole; leave a little extra, this prevents the door from going in. Now you can cut the rest of the foam. Use the "T" nuts. Mike :thumbup:

DIY VIDEO :bowdown:

Please, good sir?

 

[MOSESS]

I went for a test ride today and all is fine. I did make one small change that could have been a very big mistake. Guys, you really have to watch the location of the hole. Mine was a little too far forward. You can see it in the pic when you compare it to others. When making the hole I used a 3.5" hole saw from the back, being careful not to go through the seat cover. I had to do a little trim work on the seat pan; located the center of the seat cover; made 6 even cuts; folded the excess over; and glued that onto the pan. Just to protect the paint, I made-up a vinyl trim ring and glued that to the inside. So if the seat comes into contact with paint, I hope to avoid scratches. Thanks.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

If your seat post is in the correct position and the attachment bolts (at the rear) are tight, and the bolts you used aren't above the "T" nuts, then nothing is going to contact the Glove box. What you have done is an added thing for peace of mind. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: Nice Job. Mike :thumbup: