Starting and running the Spyder all winter

[MONK]

So... What's the best handgun caliber for self defense?

John

.40 cal although most of mine are now 9mm since I tend to leave pistols, full mags and loose rounds scattered all over the house......just in case. I've still got a .40 cal S&W for sale. That'll be the last of my .40's. 10mm is great but ammo is expensive and harder to find than 9mm. Depending on the size of your house, subsonic 300 Blackout works well, slung out of an AR. Supersonic will deafen you and if you're defending yourself, you really don't have time to put on ears. I've also found that 410 is a great gauge for a self defense shotgun. Not quite as noisy as 12 ga but will still stop an intruder in their tracks.

 

[Ready2Retire]

.40 cal although most of mine are now 9mm since I tend to leave pistols, full mags and loose rounds scattered all over the house......just in case. I've still got a .40 cal S&W for sale. That'll be the last of my .40's. 10mm is great but ammo is expensive and harder to find than 9mm. Depending on the size of your house, subsonic 300 Blackout works well, slung out of an AR. Supersonic will deafen you and if you're defending yourself, you really don't have time to put on ears. I've also found that 410 is a great gauge for a self defense shotgun. Not quite as noisy as 12 ga but will still stop an intruder in their tracks.

Actually, I was just being snarky...like what's the best oil, best pick-up truck brand, etc...Having said that, the best handgun caliber for self defense in my most humble opinion is that which the individual shooter can best handle and shoot accurately. I prefer .45ACP (I also have a GLOCK G38 in .45GAP that I like) but that is too much handgun for my DW. She has small hands and lacks the forearm strength needed for that caliber. She shoots best with her Sig .380. For those that would call the .380 a "sub-caliber", let me let her shoot you in the chest, center mass, and afterwards you tell me it's not effective...

Back on topic...

John

 

[Possible]

Handguns are a bad idea for home defense due to over penetration of walls and consequent damage to other people.
Shotgun is the only way to go. Solid stopping power, low penetration of surrounding walls. And, not to mention, very
high intimidation factor.

Okay, now back to the original thread.

 

[SgtRay]

Pickles!!!

OK back on topic

 

[ARtraveler]

Way, way, way, off topic folks.

This thread is about: Starting and Running the Spyder All Winter.

Consider this a gentle nudge. :bowdown:

 

[Gwolf]

Yeah, I start and run my Spyder all winter. Never have put a bike on a battery tender or put stabilizer in the tank. I live in Florida and I will ride even if the temperature never gets above 40 degrees. I ride at least once or twice a week and usually 4 or 5 times a week in winter, summer, fall, and spring. No sense in putting it away when I can still ride. Snows here maybe once every 25 years and stays on the ground about half a day then. No salt ever put on our roads. Worse that you see in winter is if you ride after a rain and freeze, there could be ice on the roads. That is very rare. I almost always ride at least 20 or 30 miles minimum if I start it up. It is about 12 mile just to the nearest town. Never had any gas go bad or battery die before its time. I put average of 8,000 to 12,000 a year on the Spyder now. Back when I was younger I averaged 25,000 a year. Can't get away long enough to do that no more.

Everybody can't ride all year because of the road conditions and weather, but I can so I do.

 

[ARtraveler]

Yeah, I start and run my Spyder all winter. Never have put a bike on a battery tender or put stabilizer in the tank. I live in Florida and I will ride even if the temperature never gets above 40 degrees. I ride at least once or twice a week and usually 4 or 5 times a week in winter, summer, fall, and spring. No sense in putting it away when I can still ride. Snows here maybe once every 25 years and stays on the ground about half a day then. No salt ever put on our roads. Worse that you see in winter is if you ride after a rain and freeze, there could be ice on the roads. That is very rare. I almost always ride at least 20 or 30 miles minimum if I start it up. It is about 12 mile just to the nearest town. Never had any gas go bad or battery die before its time. I put average of 8,000 to 12,000 a year on the Spyder now. Back when I was younger I averaged 25,000 a year. Can't get away long enough to do that no more.

Everybody can't ride all year because of the road conditions and weather, but I can so I do.

Happily, I am now in the same situation. I ride most any day of the year and the only thing that keeps me off the road is snow or ice. We had a few hours of each last winter. :yes:

 

[remus]

I ride most days. NO parked bike for me. The only days I won't ride is if it's raining, Arizona drivers don't know how to drive in the rain or on wet roads.

 

[AeroPilot]

No riding today for us, but here's some things to think about - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCo2kQwBFSI

NOCO Genius is on the 16 F3T and Stabil 360 in the tank; your brands will vary! Looking forward to the next warm day or two...

 

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

What do I think of you repeatedly starting & running your Spyder for short periods throughout your winter layover?! :shocked:

DON'T DO IT!! nojoke

Unless you are starting and running your Spyder at RYDING REVS for at least about 30 mins each time, all you'll be doing is sucking green steam outta the battery with each start and not running the engine long enough to properly replenish the voltage drain caused by each of those starts, leaving your battery getting weaker & weaker & pretty much just destroying it over time; you'll be repeatedly starting it on cold oil and not running it for long enough to properly warm THE OIL up to its proper operating temps (oil takes somewhat longer than the coolant to reach its operating temp) so you'll be repeatedly applying accelerated wear rates to the 'usually oil coated' internals; you'll never be running it for long enough to properly warm the metal bits up properly, causing condensation to form throughout the engine internals & especially in the exhaust system & really just not running it for long enough to heat everything up enough to 'cook' any of that condensation out, creating accelerated corrosion in there too; and basically, you'll be doing your Spyder a WHOLE LOT of disservice thru those repeated 'Not Ryding' & start ups/short running!! :gaah: :banghead:

If you are going to park it up for the winter:

• just add the fuel stabiliser in order to stop the fuel going off AND to avoid the fuel attracting & absorbing too much moisture/water contamination from the air, as well as not spreading that throughout the whole fuel injection system, thereby starting rust & corrosion chewing into the entirety of the fuel system internals AND making starting/running well in the new season harder/much less likely;
• connect it to a battery TENDER/MAINTAINER if that's your bent (not just a 'Charger' - you don't want to 'cook' the battery by over-charging it!) or you could even disconnect &/or take the battery out if you want to put it up on a bench/in a cupboard;
• protect your Spyder/Ryker from rodent attack & cover it if you feel that necessary; and
• then LEAVE IT ALONE to hibernate safely thru the winter until you are ready to start ryding again in the new season!!

Repeated starts & short duration periods of engine idling &/or running during lay-over periods are quite simply, not very good at all for any machine in sooo many ways, and the fuel 'going off' & getting stale is probably the least of the very valid reasons for choosing to add fuel stabiliser!! :lecturef_smilie:

Good post..I might add, an automatic battery charger works for long term storage too , as it does the same as a Battery Tender (cuts off when the battery is full). Also, fill the tank with ethanol free fuel. Ethanol tends to attract water, so use real dinosaur juice and fill it full. Also, add a cup of kerosene to the mixture. That will inhibit any corrosion that dares to form and will actually clean the injectors when burnt.. And, if you feel the need to start it up during the hibernation period, then the tryke needs to be ridden a minimum of 20 miles. That should be enough to dry and circulate everything completely.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Good post..I might add, an automatic battery charger works for long term storage too , as it does the same as a Battery Tender (cuts off when the battery is full). Also, fill the tank with ethanol free fuel. Ethanol tends to attract water, so use real dinosaur juice and fill it full. Also, add a cup of kerosene to the mixture. That will inhibit any corrosion that dares to form and will actually clean the injectors when burnt.. And, if you feel the need to start it up during the hibernation period, then the tryke needs to be ridden a minimum of 20 miles. That should be enough to dry and circulate everything completely.

" Add a cup of Kerosene " to a tankful of gas ....... Coule you please provide the SCIENCE that says this is a Good idea ..... thank you , ..... Mike :thumbup: