squeak from brakes

[beerman]

I am a new spyder owner (yellow) . I have had it for about 3 weeks and the breaks are squeaking. Any ideas for a fix? Is this a common problem? Thanks Beerman

 

[tatt2r]

I think all spyders have squeeky brakes ... My dealer beveled the edges of pads seemed to help but they still squeek ... So far brp hasn't come up with fix yet

 

[NancysToy]

As others have said here before, it seems to help for a while to go fairly fast then do a panic stop, using the brakes hard. Not a cure-all, but helpful. In high humidity the problem seems to be worse. For ours, also backing up.
-Scotty

 

[SpyderMark]

I am a new spyder owner (yellow) . I have had it for about 3 weeks and the breaks are squeaking. Any ideas for a fix? Is this a common problem? Thanks Beerman

Beerman,

The squeal you hear is a high-pitched vibration of the brake pads. It can occur for a number of reasons:

• Pads not properly insulated from the caliper
• Pads not properly secured to the caliper
• Improper composition of the brake pads
• Contamination on the surface of the rotor or brake pads

If I'm not mistaken, the Spyder brake assembly already incorporates an anti-rattle clip. Some have suggested applying an anti-squeak compound on the back side of the pads, or going with a different brake pad altogether. These are all options, but I believe the issue lies with contamination and proper "bed in" of the pad/rotor pairing.

When you apply the brake, your Syder's speed is converted to worn away brake pad material -- brake dust -- and heat. (Part of the rotor is also worn away, but nowhere near as much as the pads.) On properly bedded in brakes, the brake pads actually "float" on a layer of brake dust between the rotor and pads which acts as a "lubricant" for lack of a better word.

If a chemical contaminant gets on the rotor or pads before you bed them in it could coat the pad, rotor or both (especially when the rotors/pads get hot) preventing the pads from wearing properly and depositing the requisite layer of dust on the rotor. Without that fine layer of dust, the pads can chatter -- rapidly grab and release -- instead of slide smoothly over the rotor. The chatter is so rapid it sounds like a squeal. Think of a door hinge that needs lubrication and you get the idea.

Bedding in the brakes ensures the (clean) rotor is coated with a fine layer of necessary brake pad material while avoiding contaminants that might interfere with the process.

To bed in the brakes:

1. You must ensure both the rotor and brake pads are clean and free of any contaminants. Thoroughly clean the rotor (both sides) with a solvent (I like acetone) to remove all oil and/or other residue. To clean the pads it's best to remove the caliper from the brake assembly and pull the pads out. Lay a sheet of fine grit sand paper on a flat surface (grit side up) and scrub the brake pad (material side down) back and forth across it to remove a layer of material. The intent is to remove enough pad material to take any contaminants too.

CAUTION:
SECURELY CHOCK YOUR SPYDER; DO NOT USE THE PARKING BRAKE. IF YOUR SPYDER STARTS ROLLING YOU CAN'T APPLY THE BRAKES. IF YOU APPLY THE BRAKES WITH THE CALIPER REMOVED YOU WILL PUSH THE PISTON ALL THE WAY OUT OF THE CALIPER. IF THAT HAPPENS, ALL THE BRAKE FLUID IN THE LINE BEHIND THE PISTON WILL WIND UP ON THE FLOOR OF YOUR GARAGE/SHOP/DRIVEWAY. Ask me how I know...

If you ignore the above caution, you will have to trailer your Spyder to the nearest dealer and have the brake fluid replaced and the lines bled -- unless you know how to do it yourself.

2. Reinstall the pads being careful not to touch the working sides of the rotor or pads (wear gloves).

3. Select a stretch of road with little or no traffic near where you live. You'll probably need about three to five miles. Use the brakes as sparingly as possible until you can get there; you don't want them to get hot -- yet. Pick a day with no rain and avoid any puddles which might splash road-grime-and-grease contaminated water on your brakes.

4. For the actual bed in procedure you accelerate to 70 - 80 mph, then apply the brakes with a medium to heavy pressure until slowed to 20 - 30 mph; MAKE SURE NO TRAFFIC IS BEHIND YOU. You don't have to apply the brakes hard enough to engage the anti-lock, but don't be afraid to get on them hard -- a 70 to 80 percent effort stop should do it. You are trying to generate brake dust, so GET ON 'EM! Once slowed, immediately accelerate back to 70 - 80 mph. Once back to speed, immediately apply the brakes. Repeat the cycle eight to ten times.

CAUTION:
DON'T STAND UP TO GET MORE LEVERAGE ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. DO I NEED TO EXPLAIN WHY?

CAUTION:
THE BRAKES WILL GET VERY HOT; YOU'LL LIKELY SMELL THEM FOR THE FIRST TIME. DON'T TOUCH THEM! ASIDE FROM BURNING YOURSELF VERY BADLY, YOU WILL CONTAMINATE THE ROTORS AND HAVE TO BEGIN THE WHOLE PROCESS AGAIN -- WITH BLISTERED HANDS AND FINGERS.

CAUTION:
THIS PROCEDURE CAN BE DIFFICULT FOR A NEW RIDER NOT FAMILIAR WITH THE SPYDER -- BE CAREFUL! BETTER YET, FIND SOMEONE WHO IS FAMILIAR WITH THE SPYDER WHO CAN DO IT FOR YOU. IN ANY CASE, IF YOU BEND YOUR SPYDER OR HURT YOURSELF PLEASE REMEMBER -- I WARNED YOU!

5. After eight to ten cycles, pull over and allow the brakes to cool for 15 - 20 minutes before continuing. The cool down is important! Don't drive in traffic until the brakes have cooled. The rotors are going to be very hot and you don't want to sit stopped with the brakes pads clamped on the extremely hot rotors -- this might cause the rotors to warp.

If this doesn't stop the squealing you might need to actually replace the pads. If so, make sure you follow the same bedding in process (minus sanding the pads).

I've bedded in the brakes on every new vehicle (motorcycle, car, Spyder) I've owned for the past 15 years -- no squeaky brakes. Brake bed in should be one of the first things you do when you get a new vehicle, or when you change pads and/or rotors on an old one.

So far (2,000 miles), Spydie doesn't squeak -- unless I get on the throttle too much!


Regards,

Mark