• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Do you Need better brakes coz stock discs are twisted?

There are many of us riding SPYDERs who do/have faced twisted rotors, vibrations in the brake pedal, overheating, or towing trailers and just not having enough braking power,,,
Well, here is the one REAL upgrade for your brakes - High Performance Floating Rotors.
No squeaking sounds, expands with heat, no twisting, wave design with big openings for better ventilation and constant braking power in all kinds of weather and at any level of brake dust!

Click here for more info for Can-Am SPYDER - all models with BREMBO brakes
Click here for more info for Can-Am RYKER - all models
We ship worldwide - nobody else sells their gear worldwide :)

 
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Brembo brakes are what Porsche cars have so they’re damm good brakes. Service them and they’ll work fine. I wouldn’t use anything else.
 
Brembo brakes are what Porsche cars have so they’re damm good brakes. Service them and they’ll work fine. I wouldn’t use anything else.

In the interest of accuracy. The only components which are Brembo are the callipers and pads. The rotors are the same, soft, less than warp resistant, BRP product which have come with Spyders from the beginning. While adequate for most, they tend to warp for heavy users. Especially those who do not use engine braking. This is why I don't recommend replacing a warped rotor with an OEM part. Whatever you did to warp the 1st one, you're probably going to warp the replacement with.

A good aftermarket rotor will not only be less subject to wear, fade, and stop better. They will resist warpage better as well.

So, in short, I agree with you if you're not warping your OEM rotors. But if you are, it is best to upgrade.
 
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In the past, I generally always upgraded my brake pads to EBC HH. On my F3S, I can say that I really didn't notice a whole lot of improvement. I also think the sintered metallic pads generated a bit more noise. I never really looked that closely at my OEM F3S pads to see if they were sintered metallic or organic type? That said, I will likely upgrade my front rotors on my RT STS to a set of EBC and keep my OEM pads in place. I really like Martin's fully floating rotors, but they are a bit too much out of my range.
 
If you take care of your brakes you’ll find they don’t have problems. 60-70k miles in 3 Spyders and no warped rotors or other brake problems. Same with all 5 of the Goldwings I’ve ridden. All with close to if not over 100k each and no brake issues with OEM parts.
 
If you follow the "bedding-in" process correctly, the EBC HH pads are an amazing improvement over stock.
 
Brembo brakes are what Porsche cars have so they’re damm good brakes. Service them and they’ll work fine. I wouldn’t use anything else.

I have learned hard way, especially with Can-Am, that Brembo is Brembo, and then there is 'Brembo'...
Fox - it's a great shock and then there is Fox shock that is complete .....

So yes, you are right, but Porsche has a completely different line of brakes on their cars :))))

Also, look at the rotors if you have Brembo rotors :)))))))
 
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In the interest of accuracy. The only components which are Brembo are the callipers and pads. The rotors are the same, soft, less than warp resistant, BRP product which have come with Spyders from the beginning. While adequate for most, they tend to warp for heavy users. Especially those who do not use engine braking. This is why I don't recommend replacing a warped rotor with an OEM part. Whatever you did to warp the 1st one, you're probably going to warp the replacement with.

A good aftermarket rotor will not only be less subject to wear, fade, and stop better. They will resist warpage better as well.

So, in short, I agree with you if you're not warping your OEM rotors. But if you are, it is best to upgrade.

Good answer Ron as always,. thank you
 
If you follow the "bedding-in" process correctly, the EBC HH pads are an amazing improvement over stock.

Yes,... welll... yes... hmm... I first was thinking the same, then I was more looking into riding different setups on different F3's, and then I think it was more placebo for me... but it's just purely my own experience...
M.
 
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A couple of weeks ago, I installed these floating brake discs and the spring upgrade from Martin onto my friends 21 RT Limited.
I know that I owe you folks a ride report. It will happen, simply been a logistics problem to get that ride in due to weather, and life. Hopefully maybe today.

Regarding the brake discs, they are not inexpensive. The discs are very impressive and are certified to or by the European safety standards system, however that is gets accomplished.

The spring upgrade was a superb mod for my friend. He is a larger rider and taller, both parameters that benefit from the spring upgrade.

To be accurate and clear, his original brakes were not worn, warped or otherwise “bad”, simply my friend bought himself holiday gifts.
Regarding the spring swap, he had ridden the Spyder several months totally oem stock. The front swaybar was replaced with the original style BajaRon bar. The front shocks had the BajaRon preload adjusters installed. He rode this setup for about two years with no complaints. He had no complaints, but also would hear my words explaining the need for firmer springs.

Regarding brake discs, and our own Spyder, I ran original oem brake discs and brake pads until worn. The replacement was installing EBC HH brake pads. Granted, the EBC brake pads stop acceptably fine, but will not be used for the next replacement. My unofficial opinion is the oem Brembos have more initial “bite” with a better feel at the pedal. Even with the brake friction material edge beveled as the retailer instructed, the EBC brakes generate a whurring sound when applied. That said, when the need arrises, our Spyder will get the floating front brake discs and Brembo brake pads.

Wanted to add, the packaging from Martin, and the detail “stuff” of correctly packaging was very welcomed, and impressive, especially in these days of Amazon shipping items in soft envelopes and your items arrive crushed flat.
 
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I did, to the letter.

Same here. Bedded in the new brake friction materials to the cleaned discs. Just never found the EBC HH to have the initial bite that the oem Brembos had.
The EBC brake pads stop ok, however on our Spyder I believed the oem Brembos gave a better feel under braking. Not enough difference to warrant an immediate change, just different.
 
I have learned hard way, especially with Can-Am, that Brembo is Brembo, and then there is 'Brembo'...
Fox - it's a great shock and then there is Fox shock that is complete .....

So yes, you are right, but Porsche has a completely different line of brakes on their cars :))))

Also, look at the rotors if you have Brembo rotors :)))))))

Yes, various industries, suspension, brakes, filters, fuel management, batteries, tires, and many others utilize a multi tiered series of products. Name recognition sometimes has consumers, unaware of how companies structure product tiers, believe that there is one level to be bought or supplied as oem. So then, simply, you have production oem tiers, stipulating expected performance, specified by the oem. Then there can be aftermarket tiers, which even though the item is made by the same company, can have many upgrades in materials, coatings, performance, etc.
 

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We don't push our RT's hard, pretty relaxed riders. My 2020 RT started experiencing brake "pulsing" and visible vibrating on the right fender recently.
Due to dealer availability and down time, I decided to throw away several hundred dollars and purchase EBC rotors and pads.
Well, it only took a few short rides, and the pulsing and vibration was returned on my RT and Julies started shortly after with the stock rotors/pads. Since having to drop
them off at a dealer was really a major hassle, I decided to purchase a couple of sets of the floating rotors from Martin. I was warned by an auto mechanic that the issue was probably due to a defective brake line, caliper, or master cylinder issue. I proceeded to replace the rotors with the floating rotors from Martin and followed the Break-in schedule. Over 1K miles later and zero issues. As another FYI, the rotors do look "bad ass" according to my wife, who is always right.

FYI, do not fret about shipping/packaging, Martin and His Team make sure everything will arrive safely.

Ken
 
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A couple of weeks ago, I installed these floating brake discs and the spring upgrade from Martin onto my friends 21 RT Limited.
I know that I owe you folks a ride report. It will happen, simply been a logistics problem to get that ride in due to weather, and life. Hopefully maybe today.

Regarding the brake discs, they are not inexpensive. The discs are very impressive and are certified to or by the European safety standards system, however that is gets accomplished.

The spring upgrade was a superb mod for my friend. He is a larger rider and taller, both parameters that benefit from the spring upgrade.

To be accurate and clear, his original brakes were not worn, warped or otherwise “bad”, simply my friend bought himself holiday gifts.
Regarding the spring swap, he had ridden the Spyder several months totally oem stock. The front swaybar was replaced with the original style BajaRon bar. The front shocks had the BajaRon preload adjusters installed. He rode this setup for about two years with no complaints. He had no complaints, but also would hear my words explaining the need for firmer springs.

Regarding brake discs, and our own Spyder, I ran original oem brake discs and brake pads until worn. The replacement was installing EBC HH brake pads. Granted, the EBC brake pads stop acceptably fine, but will not be used for the next replacement. My unofficial opinion is the oem Brembos have more initial “bite” with a better feel at the pedal. Even with the brake friction material edge beveled as the retailer instructed, the EBC brakes generate a whurring sound when applied. That said, when the need arrises, our Spyder will get the floating front brake discs and Brembo brake pads.

Wanted to add, the packaging from Martin, and the detail “stuff” of correctly packaging was very welcomed, and impressive, especially in these days of Amazon shipping items in soft envelopes and your items arrive crushed flat.

Wow,. thank you very much for nice wrap up :)
 
As a routine hard braking RTL ryder with upgraded tires, M2 front and rear shocks, BR original swaybar on my '13 RTL, the difference in braking ability when I installed the EBC Pads and rotors from Baja Ron was ASTOUNDING! I can't attest to Martin's new setup, but if it's as good or better than Baja Ron's set, for those that DO weigh more and drive fast, They're worth it. I'm certain I will have a tough time deciding on which to put on my new to me 2018 RTL when it's time for a brake change. ALSO I"ve learned that routine brake fluid flush and replace can make a significant improvement on older spyders. Oh, if anyone's interested in some old stock front rotors PM me. They're just hanging on the wall in my garage. (Rear rotor was completely warped when I replaced them all with Ron's EBC set.
 
I agree with Dave G! I'm on my second set of EBC pads all around with EBC rotors when I made the switch. Installed second set of pads in May '23 at 83,285, with 33,880 on first set before a summer tour and now have 4,088 on 'em.
 
My set of EBC rotors have arrived from BR. I'll swap them out when I swap to my PPA wheels and install Slayer front turn lights.
 
Will be the floating brake discs on our Spyder when needed, provided the rivets clear the Centramatics.
Race bikes with 4 pot calipers typically run floating discs on the front for improved performance and minimal or no noise from brake rub.

Most times, the smaller diameter rear disc does not float, but requires careful attention to keeping the slide pins clean and lubricated with the correct type grease.
 
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