SpyderBed (trailer)

[FrankPa]

Since I don't have an Iron Butt (it's kinda' old and soft), my trip from Cental Pennsylvania to SpyderFest via my daughter's place in Nashville and back to PA through Columbus, OH, is not going to be on my Spyder's back.

I decided to trailer and to that end, bought the aluminum and wood trailer shown below. In the pictures you can see how well the :spyder2: fits on a 6' x 10' trailer. You can also see the extra 2x6's I added to give the :spyder2: a bit more clearance getting on and off the trailer.



As my girl says down in Nashville, "See y'all at SpyderFest!"

 

[edbremer]

Very nice. What brand is that?


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[FrankPa]

Ed...

Very nice. What brand is that?


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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?1woc3p

Quality Steel and Aluminum Trailer from BestChoiceTrailers in Carlisle, PA.

 

[IGETAROUND]

Very nicely executed. What make/model trailer??

 

[rhansen309]

I like the additional 2X4 for added height. I got stuck once when I was backing off my trailer. I have been trying to think of ways to add height and the 2X4's look like they will do the trick. I have an 8X10 Interstate trailer. See ya at Spyderfest!!!!!

 

[SteveMac]

Nice!
See ya in April!

 

[NancysToy]

You might want to stick a microtowel or some other soft pad between the tie-down and the wheel. The straps can chafe the wheel finish. BTW, a quick seam with a sewing machine makes a microsoft towel folded double into a dandy protective sleeve that never slips off your strap.

 

[IGETAROUND]

You might want to stick a microtowel or some other soft pad between the tie-down and the wheel. The straps can chafe the wheel finish. BTW, a quick seam with a sewing machine makes a microsoft towel folded double into a dandy protective sleeve that never slips off your strap.

Great idea Scott, and you sew also besides being a master wrencher!!!:bowdown::bowdown::yes::clap:

 

[FrankPa]

Sounds like...

You might want to stick a microtowel or some other soft pad between the tie-down and the wheel. The straps can chafe the wheel finish. BTW, a quick seam with a sewing machine makes a microsoft towel folded double into a dandy protective sleeve that never slips off your strap.

a new potential vendor from Kellogg Land... :clap:

But seriously, that's a great idea!

 

[Cavman]

I got a polyester lifting sling from US Cargo Control that I loop around the back wheel. Then I clip in ratchet tie downs into the sling on each side.

I bought an Alumna TK-1 Trailer for my RT. The ramp slides inside under the bed of the trailer. There is a tool box incorporated in the front stone guard. There are 4 tie down rings in the bed. I will be adding some of the Anchor Point Tie Down Kit with Round Bases to the bed of the trailer. (APK2BLR) these are used in aircraft to hold things down.

I'll be towing the Spyder to SpyderFest too. I'm adding some "pretty lights" to my trailer.

I sew too, but it's OK because I have a Federal License to do so. :2thumbs:

 

[TuckMiddle]

Another approach to the loading problem

I like the additional 2X4 for added height. I got stuck once when I was backing off my trailer. I have been trying to think of ways to add height and the 2X4's look like they will do the trick. I have an 8X10 Interstate trailer. See ya at Spyderfest!!!!!

I also have a 6x10 foot trailer, only because the RT wouldn't fit "nicely" in my 5x10 I had for years. I bought a trailer hitch for my car/truck that simply cranks with a ratchet wrench to level the trailer many years ago. It also happens to have a pretty good range of travel. I simply hook up the trailer and "crank it up to the max. This gives a nice angle for the tailgate/trailer combo and the Goldwing, Spyder or what ever drives on like a champ. I was concerned about the Spyder being so low slung, but there is ample room for the Spyder to clear ther "hump." Don't remember how much I paid, but that was way back in another lifetime!! I'll add a pic one day when I get ambitious enough to hook it up and drag it up to the level street for a photo or two with the Spyder sitting over the hinge point. Also bolted a 2x4 on the deck on each side to keep me from banging the fender into the side and a couple pieces of 4x4 for front and rear chocks so the nose/tail end won't get crushed if it did somehow loosen the tie-downs a little. I always ride the bike and never trailer unless it won't start, etc. So far, so good for the Spyder - only have 10,000 miles. As the sticker on my helmet says "I rode my bike to trailer week."
Tuck

 

[Floyd Baughman]

Ancors

I see that you run your strap throught the rear tire? I did that same going to Az last winter and the back moved around some, so I added another strap so the strapes are pulling against each other and it never moved. I did the same on the front, X your straps and the Can Am will stay put.

 

[fastfraser]

I see that you run your strap through the rear tire? I did that same going to Az last winter and the back moved around some, so I added another strap so the straps are pulling against each other and it never moved. I did the same on the front, X your straps and the Can Am will stay put.

:agree: use the same method when I trailer the baby .

 

[NancysToy]

I see that you run your strap throught the rear tire? I did that same going to Az last winter and the back moved around some, so I added another strap so the strapes are pulling against each other and it never moved. I did the same on the front, X your straps and the Can Am will stay put.

+1

 

[dancogan]

... In the pictures you can see how well the :spyder2: fits on a 6' x 10' trailer. You can also see the extra 2x6's I added to give the :spyder2: a bit more clearance getting on and off the trailer.

View attachment 41793View attachment 41794View attachment 41795View attachment 41796

As my girl says down in Nashville, "See y'all at SpyderFest!"

Frank,

I really like the 2X6 boards you added to the trailer ramp and may do the same thing on my Featherlite trailer. Did you bolt the boards directly to the ramp, or use "U" bolts, or ???

Thanks.

Dan

 

[FrankPa]

Small pilot hole and sheet metal screws...

Also added one thing that's not on these pictures...

In order to clear the nose onto the ramp, I laid 2' 2x6 just in front of the 2x6 screwed on to the ramp. Now, I just hinged them on and they fold up with the ramp and are velcro strapped to the fixed 2x6.

Aw crap... I'll just have to post a picture!

 

[dancogan]

Also added one thing that's not on these pictures...

In order to clear the nose onto the ramp, I laid 2' 2x6 just in front of the 2x6 screwed on to the ramp. Now, I just hinged them on and they fold up with the ramp and are velcro strapped to the fixed 2x6.

Aw crap... I'll just have to post a picture!

A picture would be great, but I think I've got the idea. Good thinking to hinge the 2' sections and secure them with velcro!

Thanks.

 

[FrankPa]

Snapped a quick one last night...


(Ooops. don't forget to tilt your head left to view...)

 

[gbouten]

When I went to put my Spyder on my 6X4 open trailor I had problems clearing the hump. What I did is crank the front of the trailor all the way up with it disconnected from my truck. As I drove up the ramp the front of the trailor went up and the back went down. Then I just eased up the ramp untill the from came back down. Coming back off is the reverse and seems to work good. It was kind of a strange way to do it and I had to think about it for a while. In fact, my wife was the one that suggested disconnecting the trailor from the truck.

 

[dancogan]

Thanks for the picture! :thumbup: