Spyder Tire Preasures

[SpyderMark]

Those who start with 15 lbs might be surprised what the actual cold pressure is when they get around to checking it.

If I fill my tires to 15 pounds, then check them, why would I be somehow surprised at the result? I would expect if I fill them to 15 psi they would be at or near 15 psi when I check them. They always have been so far...

You threw the word "cold" in there and it didn't seem to fit because I just assume "cold" when someone mentions tire pressure... just confused and asking for clarification.


Regards,

Mark

 

[one2doo]

Shocks

How do you like the new shocks Smokester was it worth the green?opcorn:

 

[NancysToy]

If I fill my tires to 15 pounds, then check them, why would I be somehow surprised at the result? I would expect if I fill them to 15 psi they would be at or near 15 psi when I check them. They always have been so far...

You threw the word "cold" in there and it didn't seem to fit because I just assume "cold" when someone mentions tire pressure... just confused and asking for clarification.


Regards,

Mark

I think you guys are talking apples and oranges a bit. My impression was that Way2Fast was indicating that if the tires were filled to 15, cold, then checked a few days later, cold, that the pressures usually be would be down several pounds. I have experienced this myself. For some reason, after filling to 20, the pressures seem to hold much longer. Haven't had to top them off for two weeks at a time, yet did so every day or two at 15 psi. This may actually not be a function of the pressures themselves, but the fact that the tires are now run in well, have heated up, and are seated on the rims better. It might also be that the low pressures don't allow them to seat as well, or that they flex more in turns, on the other hand. Just speculating at this point.

I think you both are checking tire pressures the same way. I think that as long as we run withing the sidewall recommendations, we won't see big problems. I personally like the way the Spyder handles with a bit more air. We don't push hard in the corners, so there shouldn't be VSS issues. We all should just probably do what makes us most comfortable. For any vehicle, I doubt that any design issue would be so criticale and close to the margins, that a minor deviation becomes threatening. I'm sure the engineers left substantial margins for error. That is only prudent for a manufacturer. BRP seems to be the conservative sort.
-Scotty

 

[Way2Fast]

I think you guys are talking apples and oranges a bit. My impression was that Way2Fast was indicating that if the tires were filled to 15, cold, then checked a few days later, cold, that the pressures usually be would be down several pounds. I have experienced this myself. For some reason, after filling to 20, the pressures seem to hold much longer. Haven't had to top them off for two weeks at a time, yet did so every day or two at 15 psi. This may actually not be a function of the pressures themselves, but the fact that the tires are now run in well, have heated up, and are seated on the rims better. It might also be that the low pressures don't allow them to seat as well, or that they flex more in turns, on the other hand. Just speculating at this point.

I think you both are checking tire pressures the same way. I think that as long as we run withing the sidewall recommendations, we won't see big problems. I personally like the way the Spyder handles with a bit more air. We don't push hard in the corners, so there shouldn't be VSS issues. We all should just probably do what makes us most comfortable. For any vehicle, I doubt that any design issue would be so criticale and close to the margins, that a minor deviation becomes threatening. I'm sure the engineers left substantial margins for error. That is only prudent for a manufacturer. BRP seems to be the conservative sort.
-Scotty

Scotty; You said it exactly right....just what I was getting at. When I had my tires filled to 15 lbs and let the bike sit for a week or two, they would slowly loose pressure..."leak" if you will, that would require me to top them off before riding.

While on the subject of tire pressure, I was thumbing thru the full color multi page Spyder brochure and on the "Spyder Vitals" page under "tires and wheels" they state that the "nominal pressure for both the front and rear tires is 13-17psi". Seems that BRP has trouble agreeing on so much of what they say. I don't have faith in any of it. This is one company that needs to get their act together and at least hire someone to proof read the material in their brochures, owners manual , shop manual and vehicle "stickers" before printing it !!

Richard

 

[Lamonster]

Penske shocks, 20 front, 30 back

:agree::thumbup::spyder:

 

[SpyderMark]

When I had my tires filled to 15 lbs and let the bike sit for a week or two, they would slowly loose pressure..."leak" if you will, that would require me to top them off before riding.

I thought this was what you were saying, I just didn't get the "cold" thrown in there -- seemed out of place since tire pressure is always checked cold...

Personally, I haven't experienced this problem with our Spyder. Pressure drops a couple of pounds over two to three weeks -- nothing different than any other vehicle I own and operate on a regular basis.

Short of filling your tires with pure Nitrogen, there will always be some pressure loss over time. The oxygen molecules are small enough to squeeze between the rubber strands and eventually the tire pressure drops. Nitrogen molecules are too big to pass between the rubber strands; theoretically you should experience less pressure loss over time using pure Nitrogen in your tires assuming you are able to completely purge ALL the air out first.

Consumer Reports did a study to determine the difference in pressure loss from Nitrogen vs straight air. I think the study results were tainted because there were unable to ascertain all the air had been purged from the study tires. Nevertheless, they did see a small reduction in air loss from the Nitrogen-filled tires.

While on the subject of tire pressure, I was thumbing thru the full color multi page Spyder brochure and on the "Spyder Vitals" page under "tires and wheels" they state that the "nominal pressure for both the front and rear tires is 13-17psi". Seems that BRP has trouble agreeing on so much of what they say.

I work at a high-tech company. I see a great deal of technical correspondence from engineering, product development, testing and quality assurance folks. I've never seen anything "technical" come from marketing -- they get their information from the other technical people. I suspect BRP's marketing people fouled up a cut and paste operation.

It does seem a bit strange something so obvious could be wrong on a sales brochure, but (at least in the company I work for) it's rare an engineer will even pick up, much less actually read, a sales brochure for a product they designed. Usually, the sales documents are so watered down, from a technical standpoint, the engineers object simply on the grounds the material is too vague. I can see how an error like the one you noted wouldn't get caught early on in a product's life-cycle.

At any rate, I wouldn't consult a sales brochure to determine a technical specification for any mechanical device as complicated as the Spyder. Too many moving parts for those marketing types to keep track of. Find an error like that in the Operator's Guide, or the shop manual and I'm with you.

I intend to ask both BRP and Kenda why the Spyder Operator's guide allows a pressure less than the MINIMUM printed on the tire's sidewall. Guide says 15 +/- 2 allowing a min of 13, while the tire's sidewall says flatly (no pun intended) a min of 15. Perhaps we'll get an answer, perhaps not -- we shall see.

Regards,

Mark

 

[Way2Fast]

Mark; If memory serves me right, there is another conflicting statement printed on the decals on the oil storage tank compared towhat is printed in the owners manual in reference to how the oil level should be checked.

Now going back to tire pressures....Atmospheric air is composed of approximately 28% oxygen, 78% nitrogen and the remainder carbon dioxide and small amounts of other gasses. If you fill the vehicle tires with regular "air" and only the part that is oxygen leaks out (due to molecular structure) then routinely refill the tires with "air" it stands to reason that evidentually the nitrogen level will increase above 78% and the tires will loose less air.....or loose air at a slower rate. what is your imput on my reasoning ??


Richard

 

[SpyderMark]

Mark; If memory serves me right, there is another conflicting statement printed on the decals on the oil storage tank compared towhat is printed in the owners manual in reference to how the oil level should be checked.

Looking at the oil resevoir placard reproduced on page 58 of the Spyder Operator's Guide PDF, it reads:

• Make sure engine is at operating temperature
• Roadster must be on a level surface
• Let engine running(sp) at idle for at least 30 seconds
• Stop engine & wipe the dipstick
• Dipstick must be screwed in completely before checking oil level
• Use SAI synthetic oil 5W40

The oil level verification procedure printed on page 78 of the PDF reads:

NOTICE: Make sure engine is at operating temperature.

1. Park the vehicle on a firm, level surface.
2. Start the engine and let it run at idle for at least 30 seconds.
3. Stop the engine.
4. Remove the left middle side panel.
5. Unscrew and remove oil dipstick.
6. Wipe the dipstick clean.
7. Reinstall and screw in the dipstick completely.
8. Again, unscrew and remove the dipstick.
9. Check the oil level on the dipstick. It should be near or equal to the upper mark.​

At a glance, it appears to be essentially the same procedure. Does the placard on your Spyder read differently?​

If you find a placard that disagrees with the operator's guide let me know and I'll include that with my query to BRP regarding front tire pressure.

Atmospheric air is composed of approximately 28% oxygen, 78% nitrogen ... it stands to reason that evidentually the nitrogen level will increase above 78% and the tires will loose less air.....or loose air at a slower rate. what is your imput on my reasoning ??

Makes sense, except it's 21% oxygen, not 28%. I've seen tires go completely flat during long periods of storage, but I don't believe that has to do with the oxygen sneaking out, I think it's because the bead loses it's seal as the rubber shrinks.

Another benefit of pure Nitrogen is it's non-corrosive. The oxygen in the air we breathe causes all sorts of nasty harm to metalic objects...


Regards,

Mark

 

[retread]

Recently went from 15 front, 20 back, to 20 front, 30 back; worlds of difference in the handling, feels more planted.

 

[Cookie]

I've had my bike PE#900 since Easter and have done 12500k's. I have found that the front seems the best at 17psi and with the shocks up one notch. With some of the roads here in Australia it would be too rough if any higher. With the back end - i have been running at 25psi and have found that tire wear is about 1mm more in middle of the tyre. I've spoken to some tyre people and they agreed that is usually the case in over inflated tyres. Maybe it's been spinning more than i know? Don't want to run any less, so i guess i'll be replacing the rear first.

Ken

 

[Way2Fast]

Looking at the oil resevoir placard reproduced on page 58 of the Spyder Operator's Guide PDF, it reads:

• Make sure engine is at operating temperature
• Roadster must be on a level surface
• Let engine running(sp) at idle for at least 30 seconds
• Stop engine & wipe the dipstick
• Dipstick must be screwed in completely before checking oil level
• Use SAI synthetic oil 5W40

The oil level verification procedure printed on page 78 of the PDF reads:

NOTICE: Make sure engine is at operating temperature.

1. Park the vehicle on a firm, level surface.
2. Start the engine and let it run at idle for at least 30 seconds.
3. Stop the engine.
4. Remove the left middle side panel.
5. Unscrew and remove oil dipstick.
6. Wipe the dipstick clean.
7. Reinstall and screw in the dipstick completely.
8. Again, unscrew and remove the dipstick.
9. Check the oil level on the dipstick. It should be near or equal to the upper mark.​

At a glance, it appears to be essentially the same procedure. Does the placard on your Spyder read differently?​

If you find a placard that disagrees with the operator's guide let me know and I'll include that with my query to BRP regarding front tire pressure.



Makes sense, except it's 21% oxygen, not 28%. I've seen tires go completely flat during long periods of storage, but I don't believe that has to do with the oxygen sneaking out, I think it's because the bead loses it's seal as the rubber shrinks.

Another benefit of pure Nitrogen is it's non-corrosive. The oxygen in the air we breathe causes all sorts of nasty harm to metalic objects...


Regards,

Mark

The 28psi was a typo on my part and I deserve a kick in the butt for not proof reading my post.

I know there was a discussion on the other Spyder board a long time ago about oil level reading or change proceedure because of differences and contradictions in the printed material from BRP. I completely agreed with what was said back then, but right now forget exactly what it was. When I have time I'll check my canister label and see if it reads the same as yours.

Rich

 

[OZBITS1]

tyres

I got my tyre dealer to fill my tyres with nitrogen cost o$ to do but has any one had problems with the rear tyre chafing/rubber pealing off any advice would help.
regards Darren

 

[ataDude]

...but has any one had problems with the rear tyre chafing/rubber pealing off any advice would help.
regards Darren

Haven't had that or even heard of it.

.

 

[Bersquack]

I recently added Ride-On to my tires and took advantage to set my tires to the 20/30 configuration that a lot of people here use. I have to say that it gives me a smooth ride. I am thinking about getting the penske shocks, but it is just a lot of money. I guess I'd have to try it first!

 

[jedd]

oh oh 19psi all 3 tires. rear wears center too fast for me at 30

 

[SethO]

I am going to put my 3rd rear tire on and I am 6k for miles, it is pissing me off having to change them all the time. I was wondering if anyone has tried to go with a 205 or 215 tire, I noticed that the tire I am putting on weights 23 lbs,I thought that motorcyle tires weighted like 9 lbs so if it weights less can't you get more out of it.

 

[Lamonster]

When I changed rims at 25K my front tires still looked great but I put new ones on anyway. I get about 13K on the stock rear. I run 30psi on the stock rear and 20psi on the stock front. I'm running 32psi on my rear car tire now. I run all my rims with no weights on them, just Ride-On and the ride is smooth as can be. :doorag:

 

[Dudley]

I am going to put my 3rd rear tire on and I am 6k for miles, it is pissing me off having to change them all the time. I was wondering if anyone has tried to go with a 205 or 215 tire, I noticed that the tire I am putting on weights 23 lbs,I thought that motorcyle tires weighted like 9 lbs so if it weights less can't you get more out of it.

You may not like this answer, but if you are on your third tire and you wonder why, ask yourself why you are the only one changing it so often. I don't know what your driving habits are, but tires have a life directly related to your driving habits. If you like the way you ride, and continue to do so, keep changing tires. I don't think there is a tire made that will last you. From the posts on this forum, the overall average is probably 10,000+/- miles. From the looks of my tire with 10,000 miles, I will probably get 20,000 miles.

 

[ataDude]

No, he's not the only one... and I know exactly why I get 2,500 to 4,000 miles from a rear tire. hyea:
.

You may not like this answer, but if you are on your third tire and you wonder why, ask yourself why you are the only one changing it so often. I don't know what your driving habits are, but tires have a life directly related to your driving habits. If you like the way you ride, and continue to do so, keep changing tires. I don't think there is a tire made that will last you. From the posts on this forum, the overall average is probably 10,000+/- miles. From the looks of my tire with 10,000 miles, I will probably get 20,000 miles.

 

[smokster]

20/30 with Penske shocks and sway bar.
Perfect fit