Spyder running bad (Confused)

[BLACK WIDOW]

LET ME BEGIN THIS SCENARIO BY EXPLANING THE CONDITIONS: I HAVE THE JB INSTALLED, HIGH FLOW (GREEN) AIR FILTER, HINDLE EXHAUST AND I HAVE RECENTLY HAD THE SOFTWARE UP GRADE DONE. SUNDAY MORNING EARLY WE DROVE TO A LITTLE TOWN IN THE OZARK MOUNTAINS (EUREKA SPRINGS ARKANSAS) ABOUT A 300 MILE RIDE ONE WAY AND THE SPYDER PERFORMED FLAWLESSLY. AFTER ARRIVING AT OUR DESTINATION I FILLED THE TANK (APPROX. 4 GAL) AND WENT FOR A RIDE AROUND TOWN; THE TOWN IS VERY HILLY AND WAS DRIVING IN 1ST AND 2ND MOST OF THE TIME. THE SPYDER THEN BEGAN TO COUGH, SPUTTER, BADLY MISS, AND I WAS BEGENNING TO WONDER IN I WOULD MAKE IT BACK TO THE MOTEL. I FINALLY REVED IT UP TO 5-6K IN NEUTRAL AND HELT IT THERE FOR A FEW MINUTES AND IT RAN BETTER, SO I MADE IT TO THE MOTEL. THE THINGS THAT WERE RUNNING THROUGH MY MIND WERE FIRST BAD GAS, OR SECOND THE MAPPING CHANGE IN THE UPGRADE, AND THE JB SET TO RICH, SO I DRAINED TWO GALLONS OF GAS (SIPHONED OUT OLD AND ADDED FRESH) AND SET THE JB LEANER ON NO.2 MODE. DROVE IT AROUND A LITTLE THAT NIGHT AND SEEMED OK BUT I STILL HAD A 300 MILE TRIP IN THE AM. I LEFT THE NEXT AM (APPREHENSIVE AT BEST) BUT IT RAN LIKE A BOH ( VERY GOOD) ALL THE WAY HOME. NOW I DON'T KNOW WHAT CAUSED THE PROBLEM OR WHAT I DID TO FIX IT. I THOUGHT SOMEONE ELSE MAY OF HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM AND COULD SHED SOME LIGHT ON THIS ISSUE. I DON'T KNOW IF I CAN TRUST IT NOW:dontknow: BTW IT WAS VERY HOT WEATHER 96 DEGREES PLUS.

 

[Don in E Texas]

Just a guess ------- fuel problem.

don

 

[Twodog185]

I read your header and thought, oh crap, another problem. If I was a prospective buyer visitng the forum I would see yet another post of a spyder issue. However, deep into your ALL CAPS story, you mention that you've put breather and fuel mixture mods on your bike.

I can help with your header, but since I have no such mods, I'm unable to get your bike running like it did before you modified it. You can trust the stock configuration though.

Header - "JB and breather mods not working"
:2thumbs:

 

[opticat]

My previous post: Steering Recall Revisited . . .

Yeah, I'm the one that bragged in a previous post that after my recall was done, I noticed NO difference in the Spyder's performance. I believe I said I had the "perfect Spyder". Well, after a 120 mile ride today, or more correctly, towards the end of that ride, the Spyder began to run rough, popping through the exhaust, and where it normally runs 4 bars it wouldn't come off of five at 55 mph with no traffic. I'm running the Two Brothers exhaust, and the backfiring continued even with steady driving, not only when reducing the throttle.

Just wondering if they did change the ECU mapping, and if this could be the cause.

 

[Firefly]

I think some that have had this problem after the update are also running the juice box. Are you running that Opti ???

Also---- FYI folks--- ALL CAPS is considered YELLING and hard to read.

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

juice box

I think some that have had this problem after the update are also running the juice box. Are you running that Opti ???

Also---- FYI folks--- ALL CAPS is considered YELLING and hard to read.

Yes, on the JB--Sorry about all caps (not yelling) simply had my cap locks on when I started and just didn't start over when I noticed.nojoke

 

[Batmobile]

I just got back from having the update and 3K mile service done. I have the same set up, JB, Hindle, and green filter, and have the same problem with the surging when trying to hold a constant speed. I will try to reset ECU and let it idle.
Also, when they brought the bike around for me to leave, I started it and the check engine light came on and "CHECK DPS" started scrolling across the screen. I shut it off and went back inside to tell them. They came out, started it and everything was fine. They pulled it back in, hooked it up to the computer and said everything checked out. I leave, drive 120 miles and stop for gas on my way back to work. When I start it at the gas station the same thing happened again. I try turning it off for a couple of minutes and restarting it but it is still there. I am 10 miles from work so I drive it like that with NO powersteering. I call the dealer when I get to work he tells me to take the key out and walk away from the spyder more than ten feet so it will lose connection with key. Stay away for at least 1 minute and that will reset the codes in the cluster. I do what he says and it works. The message is gone and powersteering is working, for now.
I didn't have any problems before I took it in. :gaah:

 

[bone crusher]

Yes, on the JB--Sorry about all caps (not yelling) simply had my cap locks on when I started and just didn't start over when I noticed.nojoke

I recommend turning the JB OFF when you get the update...this means turning the settings of 1,2,and 3 to 0.5...this shuts it off so you run OEM specs. Then, when the update is done, turn on the bike and idle it for 15 minutes...

I would then, and only then, play with the JB again...or, better yet, run the bike for a while (100 miles), and then play with the JB...

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

High tech

I just got back from having the update and 3K mile service done. I have the same set up, JB, Hindle, and green filter, and have the same problem with the surging when trying to hold a constant speed. I will try to reset ECU and let it idle.
Also, when they brought the bike around for me to leave, I started it and the check engine light came on and "CHECK DPS" started scrolling across the screen. I shut it off and went back inside to tell them. They came out, started it and everything was fine. They pulled it back in, hooked it up to the computer and said everything checked out. I leave, drive 120 miles and stop for gas on my way back to work. When I start it at the gas station the same thing happened again. I try turning it off for a couple of minutes and restarting it but it is still there. I am 10 miles from work so I drive it like that with NO powersteering. I call the dealer when I get to work he tells me to take the key out and walk away from the spyder more than ten feet so it will lose connection with key. Stay away for at least 1 minute and that will reset the codes in the cluster. I do what he says and it works. The message is gone and powersteering is working, for now.
I didn't have any problems before I took it in. :gaah:

This thing is getting a little spooky---I hope they don't have many more of these so called software updates. My dealer said nothing about re-setting the ECU, but mine seemed to run fine for several days around town, it was only when I took it on a longer drive and then it messed up. Right now it seems to be ok. I just don't know when or if it is going to go mess up again. Some different settings for thr JB may be in order and I will be glad to hear what others have done.:dontknow::doorag:

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

JB

I recommend turning the JB OFF when you get the update...this means turning the settings of 1,2,and 3 to 0.5...this shuts it off so you run OEM specs. Then, when the update is done, turn on the bike and idle it for 15 minutes...

I would then, and only then, play with the JB again...or, better yet, run the bike for a while (100 miles), and then play with the JB...

That is probably good advice; However I have already had the upgrade and already put on approximately 700 miles since. Maybe it has fixed itself.:dontknow:

 

[opticat]

No Juice Box on mine, and it runs crappy after the update.

 

[Firefly]

Seems that many of those with problems after the update are reporting them after they left the dealer - stopped for gas or at home - and then started back up and went for a ride.....

I wonder if disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes to do a reset would help? I know I had to do this when adding the O2 mod. Maybe the dealer is supposed to do this?

 

[Batmobile]

Does pulling out the main 40amp fuse do the same thing as disconnecting the battery? I thought I read that on another forum. Nothing works after you take it out and you have to reset the clock afterwards. Much easier to get to too.
Anyway, I took it out while I finished up some stuff at work and when I was ready to leave put it back in and let it idle. It started fine and after the 15 minutes I shut it back off. When I went to start it again to take of the check engine light came on and the "CHECK DPS" started scrolling again.:shocked: I again did what the service guy said about taking out the key and walking away from the spyder. After a minute went back and started up like normal.
So right now its like every other time I start the bike the problem happens. At least its not when I'm riding, going from having powersteering to not having it could cause a wreck. Oh Yeah, isn't that what this update was supposed to prevent?:yikes:
My dealer is 150 miles away and they don't know what to tell me. Especially since Buds said everything was fine when it was there.

On a side note: surging was cut in half after reset and idle.

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

Strange

Does pulling out the main 40amp fuse do the same thing as disconnecting the battery? I thought I read that on another forum. Nothing works after you take it out and you have to reset the clock afterwards. Much easier to get to too.
Anyway, I took it out while I finished up some stuff at work and when I was ready to leave put it back in and let it idle. It started fine and after the 15 minutes I shut it back off. When I went to start it again to take of the check engine light came on and the "CHECK DPS" started scrolling again.:shocked: I again did what the service guy said about taking out the key and walking away from the spyder. After a minute went back and started up like normal.
So right now its like every other time I start the bike the problem happens. At least its not when I'm riding, going from having powersteering to not having it could cause a wreck. Oh Yeah, isn't that what this update was supposed to prevent?:yikes:
My dealer is 150 miles away and they don't know what to tell me. Especially since Buds said everything was fine when it was there.

On a side note: surging was cut in half after reset and idle.

I don't know if pulling the 40 amp fuse is a total disconnect to the battery, but I would like to know, sure would be easier. The problems you are having are strange and if you find the cause and cure please share info. This software upgrade seems to be causing a multitude of issues that manifest into many symptoms. :gaah:

 

[Firefly]

Does pulling out the main 40amp fuse do the same thing as disconnecting the battery? I thought I read that on another forum. Nothing works after you take it out and you have to reset the clock afterwards. Much easier to get to too.
Anyway, I took it out while I finished up some stuff at work and when I was ready to leave put it back in and let it idle. It started fine and after the 15 minutes I shut it back off. When I went to start it again to take of the check engine light came on and the "CHECK DPS" started scrolling again.:shocked: I again did what the service guy said about taking out the key and walking away from the spyder. After a minute went back and started up like normal.
So right now its like every other time I start the bike the problem happens. At least its not when I'm riding, going from having powersteering to not having it could cause a wreck. Oh Yeah, isn't that what this update was supposed to prevent?:yikes:
My dealer is 150 miles away and they don't know what to tell me. Especially since Buds said everything was fine when it was there.

On a side note: surging was cut in half after reset and idle.

I'm not sure the purpose of the idle for 15 minutes ? That was a procedure dealing with installing the Hindle pipe - I don't think it had anything to do with the ecu - but more with the Hindle warming up and cooling down for the first run after install.

 

[Tom in NM]

Best advice I have seen on this update . . . . .

I recommend turning the JB OFF when you get the update...this means turning the settings of 1,2,and 3 to 0.5...this shuts it off so you run OEM specs. Then, when the update is done, turn on the bike and idle it for 15 minutes...

I would then, and only then, play with the JB again...or, better yet, run the bike for a while (100 miles), and then play with the JB...

. . . . . and if I had the update applied with the JB on and was having some of the troubles that are being posted, I would take it back and have it re-applied - with the JB off. Something that should be done ANYTIME that the Spyder is hooked up to the computer.

I do not have the Juice Box, but given the issues being reported, I would not turn it back on until I heard back from the manufacturer and got their recommendations on new mappings.

There may be other issues for some riders that are effecting how the engine is running. But, you will never get to the bottom of it if there are countless variables "in the loop".

Excellent advice, Bonecrusher!

My 2 cents.
Tom

 

[CaptRalph]

I'm glad I looked in here today. Here's my story. My Spyder's steering lock up momentarily (almost threw me off) about 2 weeks ago. Took it to the dealer (130 miles away). They did the recall, but kept the bike for over a week waiting to get one of the schock adjusters that they broke. It seemed to run OK on the way back home, although admittedly I was only concerned about the steering at that point. Sunday we did a 131 mile run & it was running very rough towards the end, sputtering and back firing like crazy. I have a Hindle but no Juice Box. I thought it was me. I did see the DPS message once when starting, but it went away once started.
Monday it seemed to run OK back & forth from work (only 8 mi one way), although I thought at one point it felt like I had no Power Steering. This morning I rode to work again, seemed Ok. Will disconnect the battery tonight and idle for 15 mins to see if this corrects it. I hope so, don't want to go all the way to Tampa (to the dealer) again. Any more updates on this issue will be appreciated by me, as well as everyone else I'm sure...

 

[spyderwoman]

I have just returned from dealer after having the recall done and my bike is doing the same as some of you complained about. it sputters and coughs and idles rough. the check engine light keeps coming on. i just pulled off the road took the key out and it went away....until about 2-3 miles down the road and it did it again. its funny it didn't start acting up until about 30-40 miles away from dealership. it doesn't fuss at higher speeds but only does it in lower gears or idling. when i was sitting in a work zone area i could hear little puffs coming from my pipe. when i give it gas it acts like it is missing or skipping and then it surges down the road!?? she pops and sputters when i give it gas and let off the gas-alot!! she did not like whatever they did to her! i got mine in 07, it has 13200 miles on it, i did change the pipe to a micron right after i got it but i do not have a jb. we are leaving for the devil's traingle tomorrow and i'm worrying about taking her. any thoughts?:dontknow:

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

JB

. . . . . and if I had the update applied with the JB on and was having some of the troubles that are being posted, I would take it back and have it re-applied - with the JB off. Something that should be done ANYTIME that the Spyder is hooked up to the computer.

I do not have the Juice Box, but given the issues being reported, I would not turn it back on until I heard back from the manufacturer and got their recommendations on new mappings.

There may be other issues for some riders that are effecting how the engine is running. But, you will never get to the bottom of it if there are countless variables "in the loop".

Excellent advice, Bonecrusher!

My 2 cents.
Tom

Tom, the only problem is that a lot of folks seem to have the same "after upgrade" symptoms with or without the JB.:dontknow:

 

[Tom in NM]

I agree . . . .

Tom, the only problem is that a lot of folks seem to have the same "after upgrade" symptoms with or without the JB.:dontknow:

. . . the Juice Box is not the issue for several that have posted.

Given that people have said the update addressed several issues, it could have unmasked a pre-existing problem that had not been an issue. (among the usual suspects is the GearPositionSensor) Sadly, we probably will not "know" for a while.

My experience with complex and inter-related systems tells me that BoneCrushers recommendation ( if you have the JB ) is a first step. Getting back to a basic configuration and then walking through the changes and testing after each step is the only way to get back on track, even if you appear to be fine after the first step.

This is where having a good dealer really pays off. Even so, it is going to take a lot of patience to get a Spyder that is having problems through this.

Tom