• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Spyder RT - New Analog Fuel Gauge Bulletin

ShawnFZR

New member
BRP has posted a new quality control bulletin (#2012-12) for 2011 & 2012 RT-A&C, S, Techno and LTD model analog fuel gauges that have a problem described as "Analog fuel gauge needle does not have any dampening causing a variable fuel level reading". We know it as the bouncing fuel gauge...

We have to verify that the problem exists, the bulletin even says "NOTE: Repair Only if the Described Symptoms Exist". If so, the gauge is replaced with an updated gauge and a software update for the cluster is installed through BUDS. The new analog fuel gauge has a stepper motor that eliminates or reduces the bounce.

I've only seen this on one 2011 and up model, so I don't know how widespread this is...


Have a wonderful day!
 
They haven't fixed his one yet? :yikes:
Maybe I've got too many years of riding snowmobiles; but the float-style gauges never bothered me. Just ride by the odometer and you're good to go! :thumbup:
 
BRP has posted a new quality control bulletin (#2012-12) for 2011 & 2012 RT-A&C, S, Techno and LTD model analog fuel gauges that have a problem described as "Analog fuel gauge needle does not have any dampening causing a variable fuel level reading". We know it as the bouncing fuel gauge...

We have to verify that the problem exists, the bulletin even says "NOTE: Repair Only if the Described Symptoms Exist". If so, the gauge is replaced with an updated gauge and a software update for the cluster is installed through BUDS. The new analog fuel gauge has a stepper motor that eliminates or reduces the bounce.

I've only seen this on one 2011 and up model, so I don't know how widespread this is...


Have a wonderful day!

It was pretty widespread on the 2010's but of course they don't include them as they are mostly out of warranty. I finally gave up on my 3rd gauge and just disconnected it.
 
:agree: Mine is also a 2010 and had two gas gauges before I disconnected it. I also disconnected the gas gauge on the 2011 because akspyderlady did not like the needle movement.
 
Fuel Gauge

BRP has posted a new quality control bulletin (#2012-12) for 2011 & 2012 RT-A&C, S, Techno and LTD model analog fuel gauges that have a problem described as "Analog fuel gauge needle does not have any dampening causing a variable fuel level reading". We know it as the bouncing fuel gauge...

We have to verify that the problem exists, the bulletin even says "NOTE: Repair Only if the Described Symptoms Exist". If so, the gauge is replaced with an updated gauge and a software update for the cluster is installed through BUDS. The new analog fuel gauge has a stepper motor that eliminates or reduces the bounce.

I've only seen this on one 2011 and up model, so I don't know how widespread this is...


Have a wonderful day!


I wonder if this includes "misreading" of fuel.
 
my 2010 has always bounced.

BRP has posted a new quality control bulletin (#2012-12) for 2011 & 2012 RT-A&C, S, Techno and LTD model analog fuel gauges that have a problem described as "Analog fuel gauge needle does not have any dampening causing a variable fuel level reading". We know it as the bouncing fuel gauge...

We have to verify that the problem exists, the bulletin even says "NOTE: Repair Only if the Described Symptoms Exist". If so, the gauge is replaced with an updated gauge and a software update for the cluster is installed through BUDS. The new analog fuel gauge has a stepper motor that eliminates or reduces the bounce.

I've only seen this on one 2011 and up model, so I don't know how widespread this is...


Have a wonderful day!

From what I've read this has been a problem from the get-go on the RT's. (mine has always bounced) I bought it new in 2011 and is still in warranty, as it looks like they have finally gotten a fix, I wonder if it will be done on 2010's that are still under warranty?
 
Have 11 RT and the gauge bounced like a ping pong ball. They ordered part and in the interim, I unplugged the gauge and the digital display appeared. Loved it. When the new analog came in, they plugged it in and away I went. Just waiting until it goes bad - then I'll unplug it again and use the digital display. Or, I may just go ahead and unplug it and call it good.
 
Fuel Gauge reporting wrong

I have the same problem on my new RT LTD the dealer has ordered a replacement




BRP has posted a new quality control bulletin (#2012-12) for 2011 & 2012 RT-A&C, S, Techno and LTD model analog fuel gauges that have a problem described as "Analog fuel gauge needle does not have any dampening causing a variable fuel level reading". We know it as the bouncing fuel gauge...

We have to verify that the problem exists, the bulletin even says "NOTE: Repair Only if the Described Symptoms Exist". If so, the gauge is replaced with an updated gauge and a software update for the cluster is installed through BUDS. The new analog fuel gauge has a stepper motor that eliminates or reduces the bounce.

I've only seen this on one 2011 and up model, so I don't know how widespread this is...


Have a wonderful day!
 
My 2010 RTS is on its second gauge, and so far nice and steady (has about 20k miles on it).

Hope I didn't just tempt fate!


Bill
 
I wonder if this includes "misreading" of fuel.

You know, you might have something there.

Picked up bike on the 10th with a fuel reading on the analog gauge of just over 5/8 tank. Drove it 98 miles until at 1/8 tank and gassed up using only 3.6 gals and a reading of just over 5/8 tank. I was sure that I had a gauge problem. I placed a 1 gal can in the frunk and went off to test the limits so I could interpret the gauge delt to me.

Before I thought to stop to put gas in the can, she shut down - out of gas at 108 miles! This time, filling up my RT-S took just over 6 gals? Barely over 6 gal, not 6.6 on an empty tank? This time the gauge needle was all the way to the full mark, though.

While I'm not totally cinvinced that my gauge is working correctly, I am willing to concede that I may have "misread", "misfueled", and certainly "misjudged" the limits of a brand new bike. Don't fret, I'll get smarter. (I told my wife the same thing nearly 43 years ago and she's still waiting.)
 
You know, you might have something there.

Picked up bike on the 10th with a fuel reading on the analog gauge of just over 5/8 tank. Drove it 98 miles until at 1/8 tank and gassed up using only 3.6 gals and a reading of just over 5/8 tank. I was sure that I had a gauge problem. I placed a 1 gal can in the frunk and went off to test the limits so I could interpret the gauge delt to me.

Before I thought to stop to put gas in the can, she shut down - out of gas at 108 miles! This time, filling up my RT-S took just over 6 gals? Barely over 6 gal, not 6.6 on an empty tank? This time the gauge needle was all the way to the full mark, though.

While I'm not totally cinvinced that my gauge is working correctly, I am willing to concede that I may have "misread", "misfueled", and certainly "misjudged" the limits of a brand new bike. Don't fret, I'll get smarter. (I told my wife the same thing nearly 43 years ago and she's still waiting.)
While the tank capacity is listed as 6.6 gallons, that includes head spacwe and the volume above the fill opening. The usable capacity is about 6.0 gallons. Do not overfill! The fuel can splash and push past the vent and flow into the evap canister...creating a gas odor and ruining the canister. Fill slowly, with the nozzle barely inserted into the tank, and stop when fuel just begins to spit out the vent slots. Most of us go by our mileage and the trip meter. The gauge is just a rough indication.
 
filling correctly

I've been trying to figure out exactly when it's full in a little over 11 k miles I still struggle trying to fill it to the same level every time. I wonder if I haven't saturated my canister already? I sure do notice when I'm running below half a tank the fuel smell I read somewhere on here it boils if not full. so I usually fill up at 80 or 90 miles and been noticing I'm lucky to get 20 mpg! guess I could go slower but hardly ever drive anywhere except to work lately.
never sure if it's cause I filled to a different level or what. for sure when I park it in the garage at night if it's not real cool I make a point of putting my box fan on it to cool off before I close the garage door. has anyone seen loose clamps on the RTs? cause I smell gas if it's not full. and about 70 degrees when I pull in.
 
Back
Top