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Spyder RT 2011 Won't Start

Cliff Hitchman

New member
Went out to do some errands today and wouldn't you no it, bike won't start was able to pull up code PO 335 does anybody know what this code is. Had to tow it into the shop said they will get back to me sometime tomorrow. Great
 
From the tech manual, crankshaft position sensor, damaged CPS, circuit wires, connector or damaged ECM output pins.
 
P0335 = Crankshaft Position Sensor - damaged CPS, damaged circuit wires, damaged connector, or damaged ECM output pins

First, check that the battery is fully charged and the the battery connections (inside the body) are clean and tight. A low battery can give some unexpected warnings. I do suspect you have major problems, however. Time to have the Spyder towed to your deale for repairs if the battery is up to snuff.
 
P0335 = Crankshaft Position Sensor - damaged CPS, damaged circuit wires, damaged connector, or damaged ECM output pins

First, check that the battery is fully charged and the the battery connections (inside the body) are clean and tight. A low battery can give some unexpected warnings. I do suspect you have major problems, however. Time to have the Spyder towed to your deale for repairs if the battery is up to snuff.



Thanks guys for the info. Hope its just the battery, but when trying to start the bike it turns over fine just doesn't ever seem to try and fire up. Where can I find the list of codes? This would help me in the future dealing with the service rep at the dealership.
 
Went out to do some errands today and wouldn't you no it, bike won't start was able to pull up code PO 335 does anybody know what this code is. Had to tow it into the shop said they will get back to me sometime tomorrow. Great

How long your:spyder2:sitting? make sure you have a good battery and try to start it. Good luck.
 
Tks, I'm assuming that 2012 manual will work for 2011? If so I will order it.
Yes, & I believe it also highlites any changes from previous model years as well :thumbup:

The only caution I would add :lecturef_smilie: and I don't know this from personal experience :dontknow: but I'm inclined to think that the 2013 version would be different than all the rest, considering the major design changes with the frame & arcitecture :shocked: but again, I haven't verified this to be fact :rolleyes:

On a side note, Teddy & I are following along with this thread, because we also have the dreaded P0335 along with the check engine indicator warning, but unlike yours, our 2011 RT-S starts and seems to run just fine :pray: so I'm curious what your Service Tech says is the root cause for yours :dontknow:
 
Yes, & I believe it also highlites any changes from previous model years as well :thumbup:

The only caution I would add :lecturef_smilie: and I don't know this from personal experience :dontknow: but I'm inclined to think that the 2013 version would be different than all the rest, considering the major design changes with the frame & arcitecture :shocked: but again, I haven't verified this to be fact :rolleyes:

On a side note, Teddy & I are following along with this thread, because we also have the dreaded P0335 along with the check engine indicator warning, but unlike yours, our 2011 RT-S starts and seems to run just fine :pray: so I'm curious what your Service Tech says is the root cause for yours :dontknow:


Just got a call from the service tech, said the battery is low and plugs are fouled. Have not been able to put on computer yet because battery needs to be charged up. Will call me back in a couple of hours. With that being said, it just happens to be that I know the owner of the dealership and made a call to him and guess what within minuets I received a call from the service manager and dealership manager with apologizes regarding the service that I have received since having my bike towed in yesterday. I explained to them that I just had my 28,000 miles complete service done by them a month ago and I can't see how the plugs are already fouled since I use 91 oct gas. So I think when they call me back today they will give me the correct info regarding the problem. I also pass onto them the code that pop up when this happen which kind of threw them back a little, that I new as much as I did and that they were not dealing with a average Joe. Will let you know what happens.
 
Just got a call from the service tech, said the battery is low and plugs are fouled. Have not been able to put on computer yet because battery needs to be charged up. Will call me back in a couple of hours. With that being said, it just happens to be that I know the owner of the dealership and made a call to him and guess what within minuets I received a call from the service manager and dealership manager with apologizes regarding the service that I have received since having my bike towed in yesterday. I explained to them that I just had my 28,000 miles complete service done by them a month ago and I can't see how the plugs are already fouled since I use 91 oct gas. So I think when they call me back today they will give me the correct info regarding the problem. I also pass onto them the code that pop up when this happen which kind of threw them back a little, that I new as much as I did and that they were not dealing with a average Joe. Will let you know what happens.


Just got home from the dealership with my bike with my wallet a little bit lighter. Not pleased with what has transpired, but will be meeting with the owner regarding his service dept. Tech said there was nothing wrong with my bike, charged my battery up said it was a little low and replaced my spark plugs. When I told him that I was able to pull up code PO 335 manually he had no answer but to buy a battery tender and put it on the bike each night to kept battery up because even with the bike turned off it will continue using battery power all night. Did not know why plugs foul, probably because when I tried to start bike and it would not fire that the raw gas caused them to foul. He said my bike is very sensitive and could pick up false codes. My bike is rode everyday, put on between 50 and 100 miles a day and have never had this problem until now. I have 28,000 miles on this bike I would think that I would have been having this problem all along not all of a sudden and produce PO code. Would like to hear any suggestion from this forum concerning this issue before I meet with the owner in a couple of weeks. Tks
 
It was probably flooded. If it happens again try this:

Drowned Mode (Flooded Engine)
If engine is fuel-flooded and does not start, this special mode can be activated to prevent fuel injection and ignition while cranking.

Proceed as follows to activate it.
With ignition switch turned ON while engine is stopped, twist and HOLD throttle at WOT (wide open) position. Press the start button and hold to crank engine. The mode is now on. Releasing throttle will bring back the normal mode.
 
A battery tender??? :shocked:
What does that fix; other than making more space on his shelves??
If you're putting that much mileage on your bike every day, and you've got no other funky power usages going on...(Like extra lighting...), than your bike should be more than capable of keeping the battery well-charged. :shocked:
 
Of course the battery was a little low...you cranked the engine for a while trying to start it, and didn't recharge afterward. The fouled plugs are undoubtedly the result of the fail to start. Both are symptoms...not the root problem. The code could be a glitch, or it could be a sign of an impending sensor failure or wiring problem. I agree that the next time your Spyder fails to start in a few cranks, you should try the flooded engine procedure...or first try cranking with the throttle cracked a bit, then try WOT if that doesn't bear fruit. If you get a code, reboot, waiting 30 seconds or so before turning the ignition on again. For now, ride it and see if it behaves. Meanwhile I would search for another dealer...your tech has a lot to learn and a bad attitude.
 
Curious how this is transpiring

Teddy & I are still following along, any new news :dontknow: We had to replace our fron S02Sensor (Oxygen Sensor & was able to clear our 1code :clap: but we're still trying to figure out our Brake Failure Warning C1282 (I think) the one for Low Brake Pressure :shocked: any :helpsmilie::dontknow::bowdown:
 
Teddy & I are still following along, any new news :dontknow: We had to replace our fron S02Sensor (Oxygen Sensor & was able to clear our 1code :clap: but we're still trying to figure out our Brake Failure Warning C1282 (I think) the one for Low Brake Pressure :shocked: any :helpsmilie::dontknow::bowdown:

I had the C1282 on my 2011 RTS back in May. Brought it in to dealer. They adjusted the rear brake cable and tested low pressure sensor on BUDS. No problems since. Try that?
 
Come on Bob D

A battery tender??? :shocked:
What does that fix; other than making more space on his shelves??
If you're putting that much mileage on your bike every day, and you've got no other funky power usages going on...(Like extra lighting...), than your bike should be more than capable of keeping the battery well-charged. :shocked:

Bob D you surprised me besides making room on the display rack it puts $$$.$$ in the bank account. Makes a comission bonus for the Parts Manager.' Causes the wholesale distributor a sale and adds another unit for the Battery Tender manufacturer here in neighboring Deland FL

Some good ole boy over there needs a new fishing boat. :ohyea:
 
Bob D you surprised me besides making room on the display rack it puts $$$.$$ in the bank account. Makes a comission bonus for the Parts Manager.' Causes the wholesale distributor a sale and adds another unit for the Battery Tender manufacturer here in neighboring Deland FL

Some good ole boy over there needs a new fishing boat. :ohyea:

You guys down there where it stays warm have a pretty cynical view of battery maintainers. In the winter up here in snow country they are essential. If the battery is left in the vehicle in an unheated garage the voltage will drop off as the temperature drops. If it drops off far enough and the temperature gets cold enough, the battery freezes and breaks...or drives the lead out of the plates/mats. While I don't use one in summer, and it certainly shouldn't be needed if you ride/drive only once a week or so, in winter storage they are invaluable. :D
 
Even in our temperate area a tender is a must in the winter. Found that out last winter. Even though last winter was fairly mild, I still needed to put a tender on our 2010 RTS. In fact, had to finally replace the OEM battery in my '04 Silverado.

Have to agree that there's something fishy about what the tech did/said. I can understand the low battery. But like Scotty said, there's something else there.

Dave, have you had the brake fluid flush done???
 
You guys down there where it stays warm have a pretty cynical view of battery maintainers. In the winter up here in snow country they are essential. If the battery is left in the vehicle in an unheated garage the voltage will drop off as the temperature drops. If it drops off far enough and the temperature gets cold enough, the battery freezes and breaks...or drives the lead out of the plates/mats. While I don't use one in summer, and it certainly shouldn't be needed if you ride/drive only once a week or so, in winter storage they are invaluable. :D
He was responding to my post, and reply to a Floridian being told that a battery Tender should be purchased...
...Which seems to me to just be silly!
 
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