Spyder RT 2011 - Fuel Gauge

[Mr. White]

Just my .02. In the last 65 years of riding many different scoots, I have gotten an idea of my mpg and used the odometer for fueling. In the last few fillups, I have gotten 30 mpg on BR1 and use that figure (and my bladder) for refueling. I run 130 and start looking for a station unless in west Texas and then I refuel more often. (170 on my Motor Trike, but bladder usually wins)

At 150, I take 5.0 to 5.2 gallons. It works for me. We all know gauges are not very accurate....I seldom look at mine....just the odometer. JMHO

:spyder2:

 

[ARtraveler]

I got my :spyder2: back from the repair shop yesterday. They replaced the sending unit this time, instead of the gauge. The gauge needle does not move as much as it did--but is not rock solid either.

The odometer reading is the method I have been using also--for refueling information--I look at the gauge as "ball park"--nothing more.

The could find nothing wrong with the "bucking and snorting" engine issues--no codes--no glitches. I had oil changed, new filters, adjustments required---etc. The bike runs just fine now--I have put 100 miles on since picking it up--and no problems. The even felt that the plugs did not need replacing at 14,000 miles.

Just another computer glitch? Who knows.

 

[clueless]

For years I've known that the fuel level in the tank was determined by a float but not until watching the Autometer video did I know how that turned into a reading. Thanks Clueless. :clap:

No problem. Glad u learned as I did how they work.


Scotty thanks as well. May experiment if not too expensive and can get the specs on brp sending unit. I would hope the meter loading on the circuit would be the same. So not to trip up system.

 

[Lamonster]

I'm not sure why the gauge is all over the place as far as when the light comes on. Sometimes I'll put in 4 gals and sometimes I'll put in as much as 5.2 gal. I pretty much go by miles and how I'm driving as to when I need to pull in for fuel. The gauge is a tool but not a very accurate one. :sour:

 

[BikerDoc]

I get the feeling that most of us have resorted to fill up by mileage just like Scotty, not by the gas gauges. why waste time and money with new gauges when they are a maybe.. If you track the mileage you can get very accurate on fill up times and amounts

 

[clueless]

i use the gauge as a quick look at how much fuel ... like a 1000 ft view of where I am. then I use mileage when I get near the bottom of the fuel guage to know when to gas up. I start looking like others at 125 miles and more seriously (I.E. hit the nearest gas station on Garmin button) at around 150 miles. also to confirm i put as much fuel to be full when filling up. one time the click on the gas pump went off way too early and it reclicked when topping off slowly so I figured i was full like usual... wrong... was low like .5 gals!

but the digital gauge others have said is more accurate then the analog meter, so I am thinking that its the analog meter is not that good when it gets down toward empty.

yeah its only as good as the sending unit and the shape of the tank is strange on the RTs ... but I am trying to get as close to the digital display accuracy as I can with a replacement for the analog gauge ... with a new digital gauge on the side and that way I can keep my fuel and temp gauges...

 

[Lamonster]

What would be nice is a flow meter instead of a fuel gauge. Then you would know how much fuel was used by flow and not a sending unit. :thumbup:

 

[eddieshep999]

New fuel gauge fitted - Bounces Not as much

Just had the Fuel gauge on my 2010 Spyder RT-S replaced with a 2011 gauge

Was stable until I filled up then started to bounce again not as bad, But still off putting


Rather than get another gauge - I have removed both gauges and use the Cluster display Easier on the eye


Have now fitted a Digital Voltmeter and Clock in place of Fuel/Temp gauge

Thanks for the information on this Website, I would never had known the removal of both gauges would give me the same information in the
Cluster display

Thanks

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK

 

[t64507]

I have a 2011 RTS and I disconnected both the analog gauges so they come up on the digital screen. They are more accurate that way. I replaced them with a digital volt meter and digital oil pressure gauge and I am very pleased with the result.:firstplace:

what all do you have to do beside disconect and cap wires?
for this to show up

 

[eddieshep999]

t64507


Ref - what all do you have to do beside disconect and cap wires?
for this to show up

This previous Thread should answer your question

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?25581-Digital-Gauges-Question&highlight=fuel+gauge

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK



Spyder – RT-S SES (AUTO 2010 Model)


List of Mods :-
Added Zuno 660 -Garmin kit as supplied on the Spyder RT Limited
Digital Voltmeter and Digital Clock to replace Fuel and Temp gauge – Fuel and Temp now
displayed in Cluster Display
LED Bulbs Reversing Lights,Front position lights
HMT - Brake Light
LED – Running lights
LED - Mud Flap lights
Rear extended Mud Flap
Sport Tall Wide Clear Windshield
Utopia Backrest
S/S Grills both sides matching
Bottom Panel S/S Protection
S/S stronger Funk Lid brackets
S/S Bracket for RBNS Hood for Zumo 660 GPS + TourTech Lockable Mount
Rubber Tank protector on glove box
Grip Puppies
Power Socket in Switch Cluster and at Rear passenger Handrail
Rear Speaker Switch for passenger On/OFF
Upgraded Front Marine Speakers
Bluetooth On board Radio to Sena SMH10 Headsets

 

[Shaku]

My problem with the fuel level is that I can't really tell with a quick glance how much fuel is showing on the digital display. I can't very well stop and count the little bars. In some light, sure, I can see it, but in other light it's problematic. The yellow bars of the digital temp are even worse. I installed aftermarket full-sweep analog units. I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get it to read accurately at the low end. I found out the cluster is sending some sort of signal down the sensor line from the tank. I used the master wiring diagram to isolate which wire going to the cluster was the culprit. I clipped that wire. This fixed the analog accuracy but then the low fuel level light was on all the time. So, I put 100 ohms or so between the cluster input and ground. Now the digital fuel gauge reads about 3/4 full and since it never changes, I ignore it. Low fuel light is off. It doesn't have to be exactly 100 ohms. Anything in that range will do. With the full-sweep analog, it is a bit over a gallon per 1/4 tank. It does stay on full for quite some time after a fill up, but that is common with float sensors. I would like to kill the digital readouts entirely, but I haven't been able to figure out what the cluster expects to see from the OEM gauges to shut down the digital readouts. I also have a pretty accurate "butt sensor." I need to get off around 130 miles or so and stretch.

 

[Vyperyder]

My personal opinion is that the "problem" may not necessarily be the gauge but the "float/sender and the tank.
From my recollection most bikes don't have gauges for a very good reason...."slosh".
The amount of movement on a bike and the small size of the tank makes a gauge redundant at best.
My Ducati has a warning light which seems to come on after 120km leaving me about 80-90km before empty...nature of the beast, high consumption.
A car has firstly a much larger tank (75liters or more), and I think also baffles to stop "slosh", therefore the gauge is much more stable.
OK a Spyder doesn't lean, but I think that the new design may have a damper of some sort in the "float/sender system to eliminate the "bounce"
Having said that, mine doesn't bounce at all, but I use the mileage system in conjunction with the gauge to decide when to fill.
I tend to refill at around 200km (130m)
cheers all
Pete

 

[sljanssen]

Hi, my name is Shannon and I'm new to the site but wanted to respond. I bought a 2008 Spyder and had it for 3 years and never had a problem with the fuel guage. I then sold that and purchased a 2011 RTS in April. My fuel guage was fine until December, 2011. Now the darn thing jumps from full to quarter tank. I am of course, getting the run around from the dealer who's saying, "their all like that". No, I beg to differ. For 7 months it worked perfect. What could have changed? Can Am knows they have a problem with these fuel guages and us as customers spent a LOT of money on their product. The least they can do is step up and fix our problems! pheeew, I feel better now!

 

[fastfraser]

:welcome: :congrats: on your Spyders :thumbup: No troubles with my gauges 2011 RTS:thumbup: 12,000 miles.

 

[ARtraveler]

:welcome: It does sound like you have a problem with the gauge. If dealer says they are all like that--they are full of :cus:

Did you talk with someone in authority--or not?


You might call BRP and talk to Carlo, or check with another dealer. A dealer that does things like yours--if you were talking to management, is not worth the bother. Free advertising is in order if they don't or are not willing to solve your problem.

 

[NancysToy]

Yes, many of the RTS fuel gauges lose their damping after a while. When they do, some are worse than others. The one on my 2011 started to jump around after about 6,000 miles. This should be covered under warranty. I don't think your dealer is being square with you. I'd contact Carlo or see another dealer.

 

[bluestratos]

My 2011 did not bounce but I disconnected to try the bar graph as mine was horribly off. No improvment on the graph, which makes sense in my mind. May have to resort to a stick to the measure the thank when in doubt, lol.

 

[currin20fan]

fuel guage

So far on my 2011 Limited the fuel guage hasn't been jumping around ........... not that I can tell but I use my trip meter and the low fuel light to let me know that I need gas. It works best for me but will keep an eye out on that guage.

 

[Flight Risk]

Weird Gas Guages

I have a 2011 RT-s SE5 that I bought in November 2011. Has 2,000 miles on it. My gas gauge marker looked like a windshield wiper going insane. My brakes also felt rather mushy. Yesterday I had the gauge replaced and the brakes bled. Once all was done, I got on the bike to head for home as it was starting to rain. I had filled up my tank before going to the dealer. As I got on the road to head home, I noticed the gauge "marker" was now at least 1/4" over the Full indicator mark. Really??? I called the dealership when I made it home and they said to ride it and just see how the gauge responds. I ride every weekend with a large group.....seems like I am the only one filling up at each stop. Now I am going to have to "see how it goes"??? Running out of gas on a back road with 15 to 20 other riders just doesn't seem like a fun day for anyone.

Why is it so hard to make an accurate gauge?

Suggestions are most appreciated!

 

[8 LEGS]

My 2012 RT fuel gage bounces, I have since pulled out the gages and put the cover pieces in.