Spyder Issue

[WilderThomas]

I made mention earlier of a problem I was having with my 2012 Can Am Spyder RT-SE5. In that it has gone to a dark display, can be started, but cannot be shifted into any gear. The idiot lights on both the speedometer and tachometer continuously flash, the tail, head, and fog lights work. Presently the bike is in neutral so it can be manually rolled around the garage. I spoke with one tech on You Tube, who thought it was likely the dash control module. The Spyder has so many modules, I have no idea of what this one particularly does, and if it has failed, how much it would cost to replace.

 

[Bob Denman]

I spoke with one tech on You Tube, who thought it was likely the dash control module.

:dontknow: Who is this Tech, and what sort of credentials do they have?
Have you actually asked the Tech at your Spyder Dealership?

 

[jwulf74]

Really dumb question... is the battery charged and in food health? When ours started to go bad it acted pretty much like that... really odd electrical stuff and even the parking brake complained. Once we changed out the battery and kept it on a maintainer... no problem.

 

[ARtraveler]

:agree: Another vote for a battery. The funny electrical stuff starts when the battery goes bad. :thumbup:

 

[billybovine]

I made mention earlier of a problem I was having with my 2012 Can Am Spyder RT-SE5. In that it has gone to a dark display, can be started, but cannot be shifted into any gear. The idiot lights on both the speedometer and tachometer continuously flash, the tail, head, and fog lights work. Presently the bike is in neutral so it can be manually rolled around the garage. I spoke with one tech on You Tube, who thought it was likely the dash control module. The Spyder has so many modules, I have no idea of what this one particularly does, and if it has failed, how much it would cost to replace.

Since it is a SE5. It does not matter if it is gear or not. It will still roll around the shop. That is because the clutch is not engaged until the engine gets to 2,000 rpm or above.

Copied from the BRP parts guide. "710003158 Multifunction Speedometer $857.99 USD". You can likely get it cheaper from a online parts discount distributor.

That is just too much money to spend to swap out the part and hope it fixes it. Take it to a dealer and plug it into BUDS. Also you have not ruled out a bad connection to the gauge. Pull the gauge cluster out and inspect the connector.

 

[2Paw]

I vote Battery

I had similar problems and a new battery fixed me right up.

 

[Chupaca]

Gotta say...

I vote you get to a buds system and find the codes to help you find a direction. If you can start it it will not be the battery or it's connections. You mentioned that there was some work requiring dash removal so that is a good place to look for faulty connections. One pin out of place is all you need to mess things up. :dontknow:

 

[Jeriatric]

I vote you get to a buds system and find the codes to help you find a direction. If you can start it it will not be the battery or it's connections. You mentioned that there was some work requiring dash removal so that is a good place to look for faulty connections. One pin out of place is all you need to mess things up. :dontknow:

Agree, sure beginning to sound like the main screen cannon plug. It's easy enough to get to but, if you've never done it before....well, it could be intimidating.

 

[WilderThomas]

No Question is Dumb if The Answer is Important to You.

Really dumb question... is the battery charged and in food health? When ours started to go bad it acted pretty much like that... really odd electrical stuff and even the parking brake complained. Once we changed out the battery and kept it on a maintainer... no problem.

The bike was kept on a Battery Tender all winter since it couldn't be ridden. My wife and I took it for a ride the previous day and never had a problem. The following day I went over a stretch of highway that had been patched in several places, so the bike continually went over internittent patches. The width of the lane. So while the connections to the battery terminals seem tightly secured, I wonder if something else might have been jarred loose.

 

[Bob Denman]

If the battery is the original to the bike: it has probably given you all that it has to give... try a new one! :thumbup:

 

[WilderThomas]

Spyder Issues

Since it is a SE5. It does not matter if it is gear or not. It will still roll around the shop. That is because the clutch is not engaged until the engine gets to 2,000 rpm or above.

Copied from the BRP parts guide. "710003158 Multifunction Speedometer $857.99 USD". You can likely get it cheaper from a online parts discount distributor.

That is just too much money to spend to swap out the part and hope it fixes it. Take it to a dealer and plug it into BUDS. Also you have not ruled out a bad connection to the gauge. Pull the gauge cluster out and inspect the connector.

You're right of course. The best thing to do is get it to the dealer, have them utilize their BUDS system, and obtain the definitive answer. We were trying to eliminate the $175 diagnostic fee, but that could end up being the least expensive action performed on the bike.

 

[Large1]

Just a little more input on this problem

I was there when Wildertomas had the problem and helped load it on the Ramp Truck for the trip home.
I also thought about a plug being loose for a couple of reasons when he got to the coffee shop he stated the the Screen had went black a few times on his way to Coffee, When you turn on the key the spyder does a Self diagnostic run the needles do a sweep up and then down His made a one way trip to the top and stayed there even after turning the key off and turning it back on also if we waited the time it takes to run the system so the mode button should be pressed it would start with out a problem, With the key off the lights didn't appear to dim at all till they timed out and shut off.

 

[Large1]

The bike was kept on a Battery Tender all winter since it couldn't be ridden. My wife and I took it for a ride the previous day and never had a problem. The following day I went over a stretch of highway that had been patched in several places, so the bike continually went over internittent patches. The width of the lane. So while the connections to the battery terminals seem tightly secured, I wonder if something else might have been jarred loose.

Tom if you need help checking the plugs let me know I would gladly ride of to give you a hand.
Dick.

 

[Lew L]

Battery

On one of my trucks I had a battery fail internally. Would still read 12+ volts on the meter but wouldn't start the truck. It was securely held down and terminals tight. BUT a connection between cells cracked------causing the system to sometimes "flicker" in and out when not out all together. This was after hitting some speed bumps AT SPEED.

I would try a known good battery first.

Kaos

 

[cptjam]

Battery

If your battery is original, it is ready to replace. Do that first. Concur with Lew. (Kaos). Spyders do odd things when the battery is even slightly off. Since you can do it yourself (yes, Tupperware has to come off), and the battery is available at batteries plus in Boise, eliminate that as a possibility. If you get stuck, call. I'll walk you through it.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Another vote for a bad battery. The Spyder ain't like older bikes where even a near dead battery would start the bike if it had enough oomph to turn over the engine. Even a nearly dead battery will show 12+ volts with no load. Add a load though and the voltage drops. With the Spyder if the battery drops below 10.5 volts when you hit the starter you can see all kinds of screwy things happening with the cluster. If you still have the OEM battery even being on a maintainer it won't stay in good condition forever. In fact, one way to tell if a battery that shows a full charge is good or not is to watch how long it takes to bring it back to full voltage. If after you run it down some and hook up a charger to it, and see it get back to full voltage in an hour or so, it's bad. A good battery does not come back up to full voltage quickly.

 

[WilderThomas]

Malfunctioning Spyder

I vote you get to a buds system and find the codes to help you find a direction. If you can start it it will not be the battery or it's connections. You mentioned that there was some work requiring dash removal so that is a good place to look for faulty connections. One pin out of place is all you need to mess things up. :dontknow:

It was purchased preowned last September. One of the first things to freeze up on it was the fuel, and temperature gauges. So those issues were repaired, but I don't recall that the display had given out. And it could be started.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I vote you get to a buds system and find the codes to help you find a direction. If you can start it it will not be the battery or it's connections.

It was purchased preowned last September. One of the first things to freeze up on it was the fuel, and temperature gauges. So those issues were repaired, but I don't recall that the display had given out. And it could be started.

Chupaca, I can't agree with you. As I can best recall either my '13 RT or my '14 RT did exactly what you're saying won't. The battery had been run down while I was working on it or it was sitting in the garage, I don't remember which. Anyway, I hit the starter. The cluster went through all sorts of oddball display antics but the bike started. However, the display stayed screwed up. I had to reboot it by turning the bike off and restarting it.

Wilder, which gauges were the problem? The analog round ones in the dash? If the analog gauges, and both were acting up, then it had to have been a grounding problem. The fuel gauge gets direct 12 volt power and controls the signal level with the ground side going through the level sensor. The temp gauge variable voltage comes from the cluster. The only common connection between the two is the ground connection to the frame. So what I'm saying is your previous gauge problem isn't related to the cluster acting up now.

Do you have any idea how old the battery is? As others have said, unless you know for absolute certainty it is good, then it is the first thing to replace. If you haven't already done so, connect a jump battery from your car or whatever and then start the bike. If the cluster stays normal then you know the battery is bad. The OEM Yuasa battery is about the best overall value there is for a replacement. It is one item from the factory that is top notch!

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Wilder, if you jump the Spyder and then start it, and the cluster still is acting up, then it most likely is the cluster. It is one complete module with all the digital readouts and has to be replaced as a single unit. I have doubts that the harness connector has come loose. They're locked in pretty good, and there are about 20 wires in it.

 

[WilderThomas]

The bike was kept on a Battery Tender all winter since it couldn't be ridden. My wife and I took it for a ride the previous day and never had a problem. The following day I went over a stretch of highway that had been patched in several places, so the bike continually went over internittent patches. The width of the lane. So while the connections to the battery terminals seem tightly secured, I wonder if something else might have been jarred loose.

I just wanted to provide an update here. As mentioned earlier, the display remained dark, the bike would start but not shift into gear. All the warning lights were flashing on the speedometer and tachometer. The normal, head, fog, tail, brake lights worked. The windshield was inoperative. As a last ditch attempt, i rapped a knuckle against the display screen, and everything started working again. I do think the connection behind the instrument panel needs to be looked at, and tightened up. But rather a simple loose connection, than have to replace the multifunction display module. Which the service department told me, would cost $1045. Which would have meant, that this year's riding season was now over.