Sputtering Spyder

[SLO RYDER]

My California emissions SM5 08' has had a miss or what I call sputtering. It seems to be getting worse and it only does so around 3500-4500 rpm. This is when it is at a steady cruise (I have cruise added so I know it is not throttle change). I cruise at 70 + and when the rpm's are 5k or above it doesn't do it. It is almost like hitting the kill switch quickly and repeatedly. I've had it in to my dealer but he say's it's because of the California mapping lean condition and can't do anything about it. :gaah:I don't buy it, I have a 09' f800 GS BMW with a rotax motor and it is smooth at all rpm's. Is Germany better at the mapping of the computer than Canada? I've test rode the new RT and did not have the problem but then again these were Canadian units. Does anyone have this problem? I love my Spyder but I might need to sell it bcause this condition is unaccceptable. Please let me know if anyone has had this issue!! :dontknow:

 

[docdoru]

Service updates and/or JB Pro. :doorag:

 

[SpyderWolf]

Did your dealer perform the Engine Performance Update, I think it came out in November 2009? The symptoms you are describing, surging between 3500 and 4000 RPM, is the major issue that update was supposed to correct. Both of our Spyders had the issue, and this update cured it for us.

 

[durango kid]

Mine was at the dealers for 7 weeks with the same problem. Check your spark plug wire and caps.

 

[sabunim5]

JMHO. The Spyder engine was not tuned to run at such low rpm consistently. Max tourque is at 6500 rpm. You say yourself that everything smooths out at 5000 rpm. Many people have had this problem and yes the updates are supposed to help, and often do. The bottom line is that 3500 to 4000 rpm is a range you should be passing through to the next gear, higher or lower. It is not a range to run the engine for prolonged periods as you are "lugging" the engine at such a low rpm. It was hard for me to come to this conclusion as I grew up with twins that had much lower red lines than the Rotax engine. Most engines perform best at about half of their redline or more. I used to ride in the 3500 to 4500 range, but came to the conclusion that this was hard on the motor and now that I keep the rpm at 4500 and above my Spyder runs much better. hyea: This is even more important if you are ryding two up and/or with any kind of load (luggage, trailer etc.). I usually add about 500 rpm if I have a passenger and another 500 rpm if I am pulling my trailer.
It is of course possible that you do have a mechanical problem as mentioned above. Get your updates, if you have not already, and have it checked out by the dealer for any mechanical issues. Then increase your rpms a little and Spyder life will be good.

 

[nater1]

mine did the same thing result was bad oil pressure switch

mine did the same thing result was bad oil pressure switch, and sounds like oil pressure switches have been a growing failure in our spyder family.

 

[Justin]

JMHO. The Spyder engine was not tuned to run at such low rpm consistently. Max tourque is at 6500 rpm. You say yourself that everything smooths out at 5000 rpm. Many people have had this problem and yes the updates are supposed to help, and often do. The bottom line is that 3500 to 4000 rpm is a range you should be passing through to the next gear, higher or lower. It is not a range to run the engine for prolonged periods as you are "lugging" the engine at such a low rpm. It was hard for me to come to this conclusion as I grew up with twins that had much lower red lines than the Rotax engine. Most engines perform best at about half of their redline or more. I used to ride in the 3500 to 4500 range, but came to the conclusion that this was hard on the motor and now that I keep the rpm at 4500 and above my Spyder runs much better. hyea: This is even more important if you are ryding two up and/or with any kind of load (luggage, trailer etc.). I usually add about 500 rpm if I have a passenger and another 500 rpm if I am pulling my trailer.
It is of course possible that you do have a mechanical problem as mentioned above. Get your updates, if you have not already, and have it checked out by the dealer for any mechanical issues. Then increase your rpms a little and Spyder life will be good.

My Spyder don't lug at 4000 rpm with or without a passenger. To have to run the bike over 4500rpm is nonsense. The RT is a different story.

 

[sabunim5]

My Spyder don't lug at 4000 rpm with or without a passenger. To have to run the bike over 4500rpm is nonsense. The RT is a different story.

Have you ever looked at the horsepower and torque curves for this motor :dontknow:

 

[Neez]

Have you ever looked at the horsepower and torque curves for this motor :dontknow:

True! It's a Spyder, not a Harley. Wind 'er up and set 'er free.

 

[Firefly]

JMHO. The Spyder engine was not tuned to run at such low rpm consistently. Max tourque is at 6500 rpm. You say yourself that everything smooths out at 5000 rpm. Many people have had this problem and yes the updates are supposed to help, and often do. The bottom line is that 3500 to 4000 rpm is a range you should be passing through to the next gear, higher or lower. It is not a range to run the engine for prolonged periods as you are "lugging" the engine at such a low rpm. It was hard for me to come to this conclusion as I grew up with twins that had much lower red lines than the Rotax engine. Most engines perform best at about half of their redline or more. I used to ride in the 3500 to 4500 range, but came to the conclusion that this was hard on the motor and now that I keep the rpm at 4500 and above my Spyder runs much better. hyea: This is even more important if you are ryding two up and/or with any kind of load (luggage, trailer etc.). I usually add about 500 rpm if I have a passenger and another 500 rpm if I am pulling my trailer.
It is of course possible that you do have a mechanical problem as mentioned above. Get your updates, if you have not already, and have it checked out by the dealer for any mechanical issues. Then increase your rpms a little and Spyder life will be good.

:agree:

Spyder likes the RPM's much higher than other bikes----Keep those RPM's UP!

 

[docdoru]

My California emissions SM5 08' has had a miss or what I call sputtering. It seems to be getting worse and it only does so around 3500-4500 rpm. This is when it is at a steady cruise (I have cruise added so I know it is not throttle change). I cruise at 70 + and when the rpm's are 5k or above it doesn't do it. It is almost like hitting the kill switch quickly and repeatedly. I've had it in to my dealer but he say's it's because of the California mapping lean condition and can't do anything about it. :gaah:I don't buy it, I have a 09' f800 GS BMW with a rotax motor and it is smooth at all rpm's. Is Germany better at the mapping of the computer than Canada? I've test rode the new RT and did not have the problem but then again these were Canadian units. Does anyone have this problem? I love my Spyder but I might need to sell it bcause this condition is unaccceptable. Please let me know if anyone has had this issue!! :dontknow:

Here are the vacuum hoses that we talked over the phone:

 

[Raptor]

:agree:

Spyder likes the RPM's much higher than other bikes----Keep those RPM's UP!

I totally agree, Firefly. I have been bonding with this Spyder and engine for a month now and in that month I have learned a great deal about it. I have put this bike through the paces man and some of the a things that stand out for me and seems to be consistent is:

1) This chassis/engine loves momentum, so don't be afraid to carry that speed through turns; the throttle response is good as long as you are in the power band which is past 5000 so you can really power out of trouble if you miss your line and have to correct. The Nanny helps too when you really miss!! pps:
2) the sway bar replacement and shock tweak I did has put a real premium on air pressures now and I have noticed that other parts of the suspension are now seeing stress that it didn't before. In short, the stock shocks are basically crap for performance riding and will need replacing. But I digress!
3) this engine is strong even in its "re-tuned" state and likes to rev higher than you might think. No matter what the situation, revs and momentum are key to getting the best out of her.

Now I realize that I ride this thing pretty hard but I need to know what she will and will not do; it's just my nature. And if I have learned nothing else, it is that she likes to rev! Don't be afraid; she can take it. :2thumbs:

 

[Justin]

Have you ever looked at the horsepower and torque curves for this motor :dontknow:

Sure have, but it don't lug at 4000rpm. Sure it likes higher RPMs but there is no need to be running at 6000 rpm cruising. I am by no means easy on my bike. I have a tire done at 3000 miles.

 

[spyryder]

Sure have, but it don't lug at 4000rpm. Sure it likes higher RPMs but there is no need to be running at 6000 rpm cruising. I am by no means easy on my bike. I have a tire done at 3000 miles.

:agree: Hums along real nice at around 3000 rpm, 3rd gear, 30 mph.

 

[bjt]

:agree: Hums along real nice at around 3000 rpm, 3rd gear, 30 mph.

That's basically idling the engine in those conditions. The engine surely doesn't like it if you give it throttle right there without downshifting first. The engine will labor until it gets close to 4000 rpms. I do sometimes ride in those conditions while putzing through a neighborhood but I will always downshift to second before I think about giving it throttle.

 

[spyryder]

That's basically idling the engine in those conditions. The engine surely doesn't like it if you give it throttle right there without downshifting first. The engine will labor until it gets close to 4000 rpms. I do sometimes ride in those conditions while putzing through a neighborhood but I will always downshift to second before I think about giving it throttle.

You can easily roll it on gradually without downshifting......there's no need for the engine to be 'on the boil' all the time, unless traffic conditions dictate it. :f_spider: