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Spark plugs
- Thread starter SllimG
- Start date
That is a silicon paste that brp uses. It is a heat sink paste made by Wacher Silicones. purchased thru brp.
never install plugs with out it.
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It's a heat sink compound, It transfers heat better between the plugs and cylinder heads.
You can get it at Radio Shack # 276-1372- A. Only 2 or 3 dollars for a small that will last for years.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
:agree: Don't neglect to use it...your plugs will have a much shorter lifespan without it. Also be sure to use a little coating of boot release (dielectric grease) inside the spark plug boots, so they don't stick too hard to the plugs and so your plug wires will not be damaged taking them off.
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BajaRon
Well-known member
Thermal Heat Sink compound is correct (same thing as used on computer CPU's). Some people think it is anti-seize, DO NOT use anti-seize! Anti-seize is an insulator and does exactly the opposite of what is needed, which is enhanced heat transfer from plug to head (as already mentioned).
The reason for this is the spark plug has a certain heat range (how much heat is retained by the center electrode and porcelain part of the spark plug inside of the cylinder head). Too hot and you get premature ignition (knock) and shortened spark plug life. Too cold and you get a build of of contaminants which can foul the plug.
For this optimum spark plug temperature to be maintained there must be a good pathway to shed heat. Thermal transfer between the spark plug threads and the head is how this is done.
If no thermal paste (or worse, anti-seize) are used you are effectively increasing the heat range and the plug will overheat.
A spark plug that retains too much heat may ignite the incoming fuel charge before any spark is introduced (pre-ignition or knock). The anti-knock sensors detect this condition and begin to retard ignition. While this corrects the problem your engine is not running as it should.
So, use the correct heat range spark plug (RS and RT take different heat range plugs), use a small amount of thermal paste on the spark plug threads, and put dielectric grease on the spark plug boots to keep them from vulcanizing to the porcelain tower.
The reason for this is the spark plug has a certain heat range (how much heat is retained by the center electrode and porcelain part of the spark plug inside of the cylinder head). Too hot and you get premature ignition (knock) and shortened spark plug life. Too cold and you get a build of of contaminants which can foul the plug.
For this optimum spark plug temperature to be maintained there must be a good pathway to shed heat. Thermal transfer between the spark plug threads and the head is how this is done.
If no thermal paste (or worse, anti-seize) are used you are effectively increasing the heat range and the plug will overheat.
A spark plug that retains too much heat may ignite the incoming fuel charge before any spark is introduced (pre-ignition or knock). The anti-knock sensors detect this condition and begin to retard ignition. While this corrects the problem your engine is not running as it should.
So, use the correct heat range spark plug (RS and RT take different heat range plugs), use a small amount of thermal paste on the spark plug threads, and put dielectric grease on the spark plug boots to keep them from vulcanizing to the porcelain tower.
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SllimG
New member
It is so nice to have a forum like this. The information here is invaluable. I'm sure most of you guys know how to do this, but thought I would post what I learned today in hopes that it makes this easier for someone else.
Ran to Radio shack and picked up the heat sink compound. This is what I got:
I had a tough time getting the front plug out, but finally figured out an easy way.
First, trying to get the ratchet through the jungle of hoses and wires to the plug was very challenging. What I finally did was to go through the top after removing the display. Make sure the plug socket has the rubber boot in it so it holds the sparkplug. You have to use a swivel to get the right angle. This is what I used:
Inserted socket through here:
Straight down to the plug like this:
This worked very well. The plug came right out and the new one went right back in. I had to guide it just a bit with my other hand while I lowered it back down into place. I didn't have to remove the airbox or console, just the side panel and the display on the console.
Hope someone finds this helpful.
Ran to Radio shack and picked up the heat sink compound. This is what I got:
I had a tough time getting the front plug out, but finally figured out an easy way.
First, trying to get the ratchet through the jungle of hoses and wires to the plug was very challenging. What I finally did was to go through the top after removing the display. Make sure the plug socket has the rubber boot in it so it holds the sparkplug. You have to use a swivel to get the right angle. This is what I used:
Inserted socket through here:
Straight down to the plug like this:
This worked very well. The plug came right out and the new one went right back in. I had to guide it just a bit with my other hand while I lowered it back down into place. I didn't have to remove the airbox or console, just the side panel and the display on the console.
Hope someone finds this helpful.
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SllimG
New member
Thanks! saved me from having to order and wait. Ran to Radio Shack and picked some up. I really appreciate the help.
:thumbup:
:thumbup:
JJW SpyderRider
New member
Thermal Heat Sink compound is correct (same thing as used on computer CPU's). Some people think it is anti-seize, DO NOT use anti-seize! Anti-seize is an insulator and does exactly the opposite of what is needed, which is enhanced heat transfer from plug to head (as already mentioned).
The reason for this is the spark plug has a certain heat range (how much heat is retained by the center electrode and porcelain part of the spark plug inside of the cylinder head). Too hot and you get premature ignition (knock) and shortened spark plug life. Too cold and you get a build of of contaminants which can foul the plug.
For this optimum spark plug temperature to be maintained there must be a good pathway to shed heat. Thermal transfer between the spark plug threads and the head is how this is done.
If no thermal paste (or worse, anti-seize) are used you are effectively increasing the heat range and the plug will overheat.
A spark plug that retains too much heat may ignite the incoming fuel charge before any spark is introduced (pre-ignition or knock). The anti-knock sensors detect this condition and begin to retard ignition. While this corrects the problem your engine is not running as it should.
So, use the correct heat range spark plug (RS and RT take different heat range plugs), use a small amount of thermal paste on the spark plug threads, and put dielectric grease on the spark plug boots to keep them from vulcanizing to the porcelain tower.
After buying a new set of plugs from you I went to Advance Auto to get some dialectic grease and the thermal paste. The parts guys tried to convince me to use Anti-Seize, he said that is what he always recommends and uses. I new that was not right and explained to him why. Thanks to posts like this I knew better than follow his advice. :thumbup:
BajaRon
Well-known member
Good for you! Sticking to your guns on this one was the right move. After all, it's not Their Spyder!
Don't get me wrong, they meant well. Anti-seize on a spark plug is old school advise and old ideas die hard. I have Googled this issue and there is some very bad advise out there (with the good, of course).
Thermal paste and anti-seize look similar but they are very different compounds. I'm glad you got what you needed.
My Custom Plug and Wire set comes with Dielectric Grease and Thermal Paste. I am going to start including thermal paste for those who purchase just the spark plugs and I have been including dielectric grease for those who purchase just the wire set.
JJW SpyderRider
New member
Good to know you will include the grease and paste with the new wires. :yes: You can bet I will be ordering my plugs and a new set of wires from you for my new RT when that time comes.
Texmac1011
New member
I will definitely give this a try next time. That airbox causes me more grief.....................
Captain Fin
New member
Thanks for the advice!
I will be changing my plugs soon. Thanks for the great advice and photos.
I will be changing my plugs soon. Thanks for the great advice and photos.
xpeschon
MOgang Member
Tip of the day about the dielelectric grease,, don't ask!!! Great advice coming from a great person...
X Man
BajaRon
Well-known member
Ron
Will you be able to do the plug/wire install at the fest?
How much would that run? (when quoting pricing, remember I have sold many on your sway bar. Love it! :clap::yes
Thanks
Larry
I will be at Spyderfest. I plan to come as a participant and not as a vendor. Last year Len and crew handled my wire sets. I assume he will do this again but I have not discussed it with him. He's been a tad busy lately!
The iridium spark plugs should last you at least 30,000 miles. The problem you're most likely to run into is that the wires will not last nearly that long, maybe 15k. Some have gotten more miles, some less out of their OEM wires. But the wires are certainly the weak link.
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