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Spark Plugs..over 5000mi?...change um!

RShrimp

New member
Well, I just finished my 6000 mile service and have a couple of observations.
1. I put in a new set of plugs. (just the stock ones for $3 each at Advance Auto) Man what a difference! The old plugs looked great but it runs soooo much better with new ones. No more misses! So, if you have more than 5000 miles on the bike, change the plugs! BRP says to use heat sink compound on them. You can buy it at Radio Shack for $6. I will say that if this is the first change you probably dont need any as BRP put enough on the first ones for three sets and there would likely be plenty left on the threads from the first set. I bought some and used it however.

2. Oil Drain Plugs are very soft! I use Snap on tools so it is not like I rounded this off with some chinise alan wrench. The plug came out of the tank OK but the hex rounded off on the block plug and I was unable to remove it. (I will get it out later but will destroy it doing so, so I will need a new one on hand first) Looks like whoever did the last service tourqued the plug to about 100ft/lbs. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE DRAIN PLUGS!
Really not that big of a deal as when you remove the oil filter the vast majority of the oil comes out.

3. The service was very easy once you get the plastic off. The plastic is very easy to take off. Just take your time. A T30 T-Handle is a big help!
 
Well, I just finished my 6000 mile service and have a couple of observations.
1. I put in a new set of plugs. (just the stock ones for $3 each at Advance Auto) Man what a difference! The old plugs looked great but it runs soooo much better with new ones. No more misses! So, if you have more than 5000 miles on the bike, change the plugs! BRP says to use heat sink compound on them. You can buy it at Radio Shack for $6. I will say that if this is the first change you probably dont need any as BRP put enough on the first ones for three sets and there would likely be plenty left on the threads from the first set. I bought some and used it however.

2. Oil Drain Plugs are very soft! I use Snap on tools so it is not like I rounded this off with some chinise alan wrench. The plug came out of the tank OK but the hex rounded off on the block plug and I was unable to remove it. (I will get it out later but will destroy it doing so, so I will need a new one on hand first) Looks like whoever did the last service tourqued the plug to about 100ft/lbs. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE DRAIN PLUGS!
Really not that big of a deal as when you remove the oil filter the vast majority of the oil comes out.

3. The service was very easy once you get the plastic off. The plastic is very easy to take off. Just take your time. A T30 T-Handle is a big help!



I have a long ways to go before my 6000mile maintenance check, but I find it helpful reading your notes on yours. Thanks for posting!
:thumbup:


Cheers.
 
for those who are thinking about doing some of maintanance on spyder by themselves, it's not that hard. if i can do it, most can.:D
i have not even done a oil change on a car before but i am doing a lot things on my spyder. oil change, spark plugs, airbox removal, hid, fogs, anti sway bar, etc. whatever i have done to spyder i did them myself. my next big project will be the front shocks. i know things are daunting at first and first time i took the plastics off, i was kinda panicky but you will get used to it. i must have taken my plastics off 100 times and it does get easier every time.:D

first project was the fog lights and i only had 2 screws left over.:D
that was a project at the time but i think i can do it in 2 hours or less now.
 
i forgot to add that without the "how to" section of spyderlovers, i probably would not have even tried any of the work.
 
So for the 6000 mile services I do not need to take it to dealer for this, what about the computer hock up check I hear about.
 
RShrimp is correct...

if you are using the standard plugs change them often. If you use the platinum, gold or iridium you can go more miles without changing. The ceramic don't leave Radio Shack without it or you will find out just how soon that new set5 of plugs will go bad:gaah:. /Ken
 
So for the 6000 mile services I do not need to take it to dealer for this, what about the computer hock up check I hear about.


From 0 to almost 12 thousand miles, My Spyder has been on the computer only once and that was for the recall. I'm comfortable with that. But like i said many times before ,that's just me. :dontknow:
 
2. Oil Drain Plugs are very soft! I use Snap on tools so it is not like I rounded this off with some chinise alan wrench. The plug came out of the tank OK but the hex rounded off on the block plug and I was unable to remove it. (I will get it out later but will destroy it doing so, so I will need a new one on hand first) Looks like whoever did the last service tourqued the plug to about 100ft/lbs. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE DRAIN PLUGS!
Really not that big of a deal as when you remove the oil filter the vast majority of the oil comes out.
Thanks for the info on the plugs. I am 1 season away from 5K. So this winter will be the change over.

I changed the oil for the first time at the beginning of the season and those plugs were on there pretty tight by the dealer. Be sure to use metrics tools when servicing the :spyder2:. I had no problem getting them plugs loosened.:thumbup:
 
Someone else will never treat your ride as good as you do. If you have the ability it is always better to do the work yourself.

You'll almost always get a better end result, you'll get to know your machine and you can pocket the extra cash.

Spun, cross threaded and stripped drain plugs are all too common when the work is done by a "Professional".

In the fire service we used to say "Being a professional just means you get paid, it doesn't necessarily mean you're any good at it".
 
In the fire service we used to say "Being a professional just means you get paid, it doesn't necessarily mean you're any good at it".

Great point! Also keep in mind that Professional Athletes, Doctors, and Lawyers, are the only ones that get paid to practice.
 
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