Spark Plug saga continues

[Mazo EMS2]

So, I have the plugs and wires I ordered from Ron. I called a dealer for a quote to do the swap and they said $332. Then I called the dealer that I bought the bike from and they said $240. Then it gets interesting....I said I definitely wanted the new wires put on as well. The reply that I got was that "our service tech has NEVER seen, or heard of a wire breaking on an RT under normal wear/tear OR while changing them". Then of course he followed it up by saying that "they won't warranty any after market items" (understandable). Also said that "they won't service the bike if it throws any codes due to the aftermarket wires"......Good grief....Am I being "taken" by my dealer? I thought I'd try to save myself some grief by letting the dealer do the job, now I'm thinkin' it's time to just dig into it myself. If it takes a couple evenings after work, and a few spikes of my blood pressure, so be it. Oh, they won't allow me to use my "free oil change" credit to offset some of the cost. "That was strictly for an oil change" he said. Fine, I'll cash that baby in in the fall then.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BE VERY SCARED ABOUT THIS DEALER

It's not un-heard of that a dealer that's pi**ed off because He gets caught Lying or BS'ing you might ( WILL ) damage your Spyder just to prove He's right or get revenge........I know it,,,,,, happened to me ......with the Dealer I bought the Spyder from...." dealer from h*ll, Essex Jct. Vt.".......Mike :thumbup: ..........; PS, on the OIL THING , I would absolutely check your OIL in their parking lot when they bring it out ....IN FRONT OF THE EMPLOYEE...:lecturef_smilie:

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Their main problem is that they didn't get to clip you for the parts....

 

[Chupaca]

As I see it..!!

You need a new place to go...being superior plugs and plug wires (not some off the wall brand) none of the dealers I know would not install them. Price may vary but that is par. If they have not run into the plug and plug wires failing they do not work on many machines. The only problem is the front cylinder because of the air box. :thumbup:

 

[joebryanjr]

One thing you might consider. When a dealer or any other service company provides a service part of their profit is on the parts. With that profit they are expected to guarantee their work. It seems you want to deprive them of that profit but still expect them to provide a warranty on the service.
They know the quality of the parts they provide, but not of ones you might bring to them. They have likely ad instances of using customer supplied parts that were defective and then beung held responsible or the performance after those parts are installed.
I am willing to spend a couple of extra $ to keep my Spyder in good running condition and to ensure the dealer is there when I need him.

 

[Bob Denman]

If they're saying that they never heard of the OEM wires breaking...

Call their bluff, and tell them that you're going to be looking for a more reputable shop...

 

[jcthorne]

If you want aftermarket plugs and wires on your Spyder (good choice) then do it your self or have a reliable aftermarket shop do the work. The dealer will use OEM parts.

Try taking autozone parts to the chevy dealer for installation. They won't do it either.

Nothing new here. Why do you think so many folks learn how to work on their own bikes? Because they want a level better than what the OEM and dealer organization can offer.

 

[Orange Spyder Man]

I would save that dealer the burden of depositing your money in his bank account.. do yourself a huge favor go elsewhere and go quickly... he will eventually stiff you to make up for the profit you deprived him by buying parts elsewhere..

osm

 

[Mazo EMS2]

I fully understand the not wanting to install after market parts, for various reasons. No biggy. But they're basically telling me I'm crazy to think that the wires get broken, or even need to be replaced ever. They're saying that wires used to break on the GS and RS..?? Told me they even went on a forum to see if they could find what I was talking about because they had never heard of it. Maybe their tech is just that much better than all you guys...LOL.....:banghead:

I'm gonna wait for a couple cooler evenings and do it myself after work. 90* and high humidity=pi$$ed off when it comes time for digging into the unknown of the Spyder.

Sorry for the soap opera and multiple threads, and thanks for all the input everyone. I'm gonna go practice standing on my head, (no hands of course)and breaking my arm in 2 places, just so I'm good to go when the weather breaks again.

 

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: Gee... If you're going to go through all of that...

...It'd be a shame to waste it, by not keeping a video record!!!

Seriously: The best of luck to you with this endeavor... We'll send for the Paramedics and pizza, if you don't resurface in a timely manner!:thumbup:

 

[finless]

If you lived near me I would help you do it.

Getting the air box out is the hardest part. search here and read as much as you can. You will be removing the bolts from the left frame bar that is along side the bottom of the air box. This will allow you to lower this bar to get the box out. there is all kinds of stuff attached to this bar like the parking brake pulley, etc. Oh for me it also helped to take some of the bolts out holding the radiator as this allows the bar to move lower.

Then the thing that will make you cuss getting the air box out is the spring clips on it. They hang up on everything! The video below shows what I did to them so next time they would not be in the way.

Finally once the air box is out, pull off the plug wires and before taking the plugs out, plow some air in the spark plug holes. They tend to collect a lot of debris like small rocks. You don't want those dropping into the cylinder.

Bob

 

[Mazo EMS2]

If you lived near me I would help you do it.

Getting the air box out is the hardest part. search here and read as much as you can. You will be removing the bolts from the left frame bar that is along side the bottom of the air box. This will allow you to lower this bar to get the box out. there is all kinds of stuff attached to this bar like the parking brake pulley, etc. Oh for me it also helped to take some of the bolts out holding the radiator as this allows the bar to move lower.

Then the thing that will make you cuss getting the air box out is the spring clips on it. They hang up on everything! The video below shows what I did to them so next time they would not be in the way.

Finally once the air box is out, pull off the plug wires and before taking the plugs out, plow some air in the spark plug holes. They tend to collect a lot of debris like small rocks. You don't want those dropping into the cylinder.

Bob

Bob, is it necessary to pull the frunk? Any other pointers would be great. Not really finding many videos

Rick

 

[spyderyderjim]

2011 RT front sparkplug removal shortcut

So, I have the plugs and wires I ordered from Ron. I called a dealer for a quote to do the swap and they said $332. Then I called the dealer that I bought the bike from and they said $240. Then it gets interesting....I said I definitely wanted the new wires put on as well. The reply that I got was that "our service tech has NEVER seen, or heard of a wire breaking on an RT under normal wear/tear OR while changing them". Then of course he followed it up by saying that "they won't warranty any after market items" (understandable). Also said that "they won't service the bike if it throws any codes due to the aftermarket wires"......Good grief....Am I being "taken" by my dealer? I thought I'd try to save myself some grief by letting the dealer do the job, now I'm thinkin' it's time to just dig into it myself. If it takes a couple evenings after work, and a few spikes of my blood pressure, so be it. Oh, they won't allow me to use my "free oil change" credit to offset some of the cost. "That was strictly for an oil change" he said. Fine, I'll cash that baby in in the fall then.

Hi,
Finless (Bob has an excellent video of front sparkplug /airbox removal.
But I used a shortcut on my 2011 RT front sparkplug removal 3 years ago.
By just un-clipping air cleaner housing, pulling it sideways out of plastic tab slots, removing air filter from right side, wedged a small 2 x 4 in between air housing opening, I was able to get my arm thru airbox opening to #1 front sparkplug to pull plug wire off & install Baja Ron wires/sparkplugs.
Air blow out dirt around sparkplug before removing (like Finless said).
You can reach around front cylinder from left side, using a short handle socket with universal joint to remove/install front sparkplug also.
Photo attached of air box opened up to be able to reach hand/arm in between to reach front plug/wires (from right side).
(yes that is blood from arm cuts in photo, ha).
It will save you $$ doing it yourself.
You can do it, just be patient allowing twice the time you think it will take.
Have fun learning about your RT.
Enjoy your rides.
Jim

 

[finless]

I read about and tried to get at the front plug that way.
My big hand and arm I just could not get at it. Trust I tried as I did not want to hassle the air box.

Bob

 

[Mazo EMS2]

After all the hype and aggrivation, I did the plugs and wires myself. It really wasn't that complicated. A little trying on the patience, but certainly not difficult. I found that if I simply bent one tupperware mounting tab on the right side down, (the one on the right frame bar) it made life much easier. ( I simply bent it back up for reassembly) I also squeezed all of the airbox cover locking tabs closed a bit more so they didn't stick up so much. Totally forgot to put the inner panels back in on both sides, so I have a couple pieces left over....LOL...I'll see if it's an issue at all. Can't tell they're not in there from just looking at it. I'm thinking it might let some heat out quicker/easier....Ron's wires are certainly better. It took me about 3 1/2 hrs altogether. Glad I did it. Not only did I save a bunch of money, but I learned a bit as well. As to be expected. In the fall I'll pull the panels and degrease, and reinstall the inner panels again. I would encourage people to DIY.....not complicated, just tedious.