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Spark plug change
- Thread starter RudyB
- Start date
BajaRon
Well-known member
Warranty aside. I would say it's a good idea to do your plugs at the recommended intervals. Probably won't destroy anything if you don't. But letting them go longer you should expect performance to suffer. Plus, you put more load on the coils and replacing plugs is cheaper and easier than replacing the coils.
PW2013STL
Active member
I did my first set at 34,000 miles and the old plugs looked good. I did not notice an improvement in performance or mileage with the new set. You do need to remove most of the upper tupper wear and the air box assembly so you can get to the coils. The plugs are directly under each coil. For the first time doing this I would plan on 5 to 6 hours.
My next set will be done at 40,000 miles, or in another 6,000 miles.
There is a heat sink material that needs to be applied to the spark plug threads. When I purchased the plugs from the dealer they put some in a baggie for me so I did not have to purchase any.
My next set will be done at 40,000 miles, or in another 6,000 miles.
There is a heat sink material that needs to be applied to the spark plug threads. When I purchased the plugs from the dealer they put some in a baggie for me so I did not have to purchase any.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Not surprising really. These Iridium spark plugs do not show wear like a traditional spark plug. But there is much more to a spark plug than what you can see. The problem is that everyone has a different riding style, climate, loading, etc. Some have mostly flat, open roads. Less stress. Some do a fair amount of city driving, more stress.
The 28k change interval may or may not be necessary for everyone. But it doesn't hurt because it may well be necessary for you. If after the 1st change out you don't think you need it that often. Then maybe it is fine to extend the subsequent change outs.
Everyone should do what they think best. It's your ride and that is the way it should be.
Easy Rider
New member
PW2013STL
Active member
No typo
34,000 + 40,000 = 74,000
I have 68,000 on the RT so 74,000 - 68,000 = 6,000 miles to go.
KX5062
Active member
Since I use my RT mostly for touring and very little stop and start type riding, I deliberately pushed it off from the factory recommendation to about 38k miles. I knew it would be a huge pain to do it, so that was part of my reasoning too. However, when I did it there was noticeable wear on the plugs. BRP does use high quality iridium type of plugs, which in most motorcycle type applications last longer than the recommended 24k miles. However, I would say that BRP has the interval right as a general rule. If you're stop and start/go type of riding, then 24k I'd say is spot on. If, on the other hand, your touring like what I do, then I'd say you could push it out to about 35k miles 'ish.
As far as a video goes. I didn't find one when I was looking. The tupperware removal is standard, but the trick is the airbox. It separates and has to be removed in pieces. It's kind of tricky, but logical once you get to that point. Once the airbox is removed it's easy from there.
Oh, BTW, when you in there check and double check all of you coolant hoses and clamps. The clamps that BRP use are well known to loosen up and I'd recommend you replace them with standard stainless steel screw type clamps. :thumbup:
As far as a video goes. I didn't find one when I was looking. The tupperware removal is standard, but the trick is the airbox. It separates and has to be removed in pieces. It's kind of tricky, but logical once you get to that point. Once the airbox is removed it's easy from there.
Oh, BTW, when you in there check and double check all of you coolant hoses and clamps. The clamps that BRP use are well known to loosen up and I'd recommend you replace them with standard stainless steel screw type clamps. :thumbup:
Easy Rider
New member
A couple of those important details were missing before.
You said AT 40,000; that is quite different than in an ADDITIONAL 40,000.
And it just so happens that 34 plus 6 equals 40.
Do you really NOT see that it was confusing as originally stated ??
SPYD3R
Active member
60 YRS
i've been changing spark plugs cars, trucks, motorcycles, boats, gas turbines, race cars, etc for some 60 yrs almost....
the SPYD3Rs come with iridium plugs, and this type plug is good for way more than 100,000 miles...
i pulled the plugs on my RS after 30,000 miles and they were PERFECT...
i also pulled the plugs on my wifes Camry with 105,000 miles, and they still were in excellent condition...
i have 45,000 miles of smiles on my F3 without a plug change...
not to say something is 'fishy' here, but why would BRP states such a low mileage change-out on iridium plugs... my guess is 'monetary enhancement' only...
call me crazy, but i plan on going no less than 100,000 miles with the original plugs...
Dan P
SPYD3R
i've been changing spark plugs cars, trucks, motorcycles, boats, gas turbines, race cars, etc for some 60 yrs almost....
the SPYD3Rs come with iridium plugs, and this type plug is good for way more than 100,000 miles...
i pulled the plugs on my RS after 30,000 miles and they were PERFECT...
i also pulled the plugs on my wifes Camry with 105,000 miles, and they still were in excellent condition...
i have 45,000 miles of smiles on my F3 without a plug change...
not to say something is 'fishy' here, but why would BRP states such a low mileage change-out on iridium plugs... my guess is 'monetary enhancement' only...
call me crazy, but i plan on going no less than 100,000 miles with the original plugs...
Dan P
SPYD3R
PW2013STL
Active member
Sorry for the confusion. I should have stated it as an additional 40,000 miles which will take place in another 6,000 miles for me.
Purple Guy
New member
I did mine this weekend, here's a side by side comparison. Don't think I wasted my time changing them...
These had 50,000 kms - 30,000 mi 4 years old.
SPYD3R
Active member
E GAS
let me guess: you are using Ethanol (contaminated) gas....
however, still many miles left on that plug.... hope you put anti-seize on the new ones...
Dan P
SPYD3R
let me guess: you are using Ethanol (contaminated) gas....
however, still many miles left on that plug.... hope you put anti-seize on the new ones...
Dan P
SPYD3R
PW2013STL
Active member
It should be heat transfer paste - not anti-seize.
BajaRon
Well-known member
No Anti-Seize!
Very good advise. DO NOT USE ANTI-SEIZE on your spark plug threads. You must use Thermal Paste or Heat Transfer Paste (different names for the same thing). Computers use this on the CPU to increase heat transfer to the heat sink. My spark plug kits include thermal paste for this reason.
Anti-Seize works very well to lubricate the threads and prevent thread damage. The problem is, anti-seize is an insulator which prevents heat transfer from the spark plug to the head. As you can see in the picture below. The lions share of heat dissipation away from the spark plug is through the head. Anti-Seize on the spark plug threads will greatly impede this vital heat transfer process. Thermal paste gives you the same thread lubrication while enhancing the heat transfer process.
When you purchase spark plugs it is important to get the correct heat range. Heat range has to do with how much heat the spark plug retains, and how much it dissipates. The spark plug is engineered to dissipate more or less heat depending on the needs of that application. When you use Anti-Seize you will effectively increase the heat range of that spark plug. And the difference can be quite detrimental to function and longevity of the spark plug (and engine in severe cases).
Very good advise. DO NOT USE ANTI-SEIZE on your spark plug threads. You must use Thermal Paste or Heat Transfer Paste (different names for the same thing). Computers use this on the CPU to increase heat transfer to the heat sink. My spark plug kits include thermal paste for this reason.
Anti-Seize works very well to lubricate the threads and prevent thread damage. The problem is, anti-seize is an insulator which prevents heat transfer from the spark plug to the head. As you can see in the picture below. The lions share of heat dissipation away from the spark plug is through the head. Anti-Seize on the spark plug threads will greatly impede this vital heat transfer process. Thermal paste gives you the same thread lubrication while enhancing the heat transfer process.
When you purchase spark plugs it is important to get the correct heat range. Heat range has to do with how much heat the spark plug retains, and how much it dissipates. The spark plug is engineered to dissipate more or less heat depending on the needs of that application. When you use Anti-Seize you will effectively increase the heat range of that spark plug. And the difference can be quite detrimental to function and longevity of the spark plug (and engine in severe cases).
SPYD3R
Active member
sorry
sorry, i used the incorrect words....
i should have used heat paste, which is correct...
Dan P
SPYD3R
sorry, i used the incorrect words....
i should have used heat paste, which is correct...
Dan P
SPYD3R
BajaRon
Well-known member
Sorry if it sounded like I was getting on you Dan. Not my intention.
I know people use these words interchangeably and I was pretty sure you had it right. Mostly posted for the rest of us. You would be surprised how many are still using anti-seize on spark plug threads because back in the day, it was the thing to use.
But now, with computers and sensors running everything. Little things like using the right paste on the threads of the spark plug can make a good deal of difference.
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