smoothspyder belt system

[mastertek2000]

thinking of getting smoothspyder belt system how do you like it i know i do not like the vibration i get from my spyder any input would be greatly triplicated

 

[Mspiv]

Are you getting the characteristic 70 mph vibration? The frequency feels like a rumble strip?

I think I read that it is coming from Brice belt vibration.

 

[hrbeta]

The smoothspyder tensioner really makes a difference. My suggestion: go for it


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[cjackg]

Ism the belt tensioner compatible with SpyderPops RT belt guard ?

 

[Recluze]

I just put one on a 2008 RS. When they first came out the belt was tight and there was not a noticeable problem. Once I loosened the belt on #10 it started to vibrate at 5500 rpm or about 60-65 MPH.

I added the SmoothSpyder this week. It is a bit fussy to get it aligned correctly but it can be done. Then I had to trim the belt guard a bit. With a slight modification of the Smoothspyder design this could be avoided. The guard is plastic, no one will ever see the trim but I just hate cutting pieces off of my bike, although I have been getting over that.

Once on the road there is a high pitched whine almost like a turbo spooling up. I also added a Madstad windshield bracket so now I can actually hear things like this since the wind noise is down. In any case the sound of the idler is not bad but you know there is something spinning down there. The vibration is gone. So much so that I kept forgetting to shift into a higher gear. I guess I was shifting when the engine sounded rough but now it just keeps climbing in rpm with no noticeable rough spot. If I pay strict attention I can discern where it wants to vibrate.

After a 100 mile run I noticed my belt was tracking to the outside of the rear pulley. So I started over and readjusted everything and then readjusted the belt tracking at the rear axle. I believe this is all necessary because the Smoothspyder idler pulley just will not adjust to the center of the belt on my bike. I could move the entire thing in board to avoid the trimming and this tracking issue but then I cannot get the idler parallel to the belt. There is something not quite correct in either the design of the bracket or the way it mounts to my particular bike frame.

Another shorter run indicated that the belt was tracking correctly.

All in all this is almost a necessity on my bike with the looser belt spec. The bike was going to shake itself apart without this. It already had gone through one license plate frame in just a few miles. Now it is what I imagine is BMW smooth.

 

[SPYD1]

They are worth the money...

 

[larrymz3]

I just ordered one!


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[capt.jim]

I just put one on a 2008 RS. When they first came out the belt was tight and there was not a noticeable problem. Once I loosened the belt on #10 it started to vibrate at 5500 rpm or about 60-65 MPH.

I added the SmoothSpyder this week. It is a bit fussy to get it aligned correctly but it can be done. Then I had to trim the belt guard a bit. With a slight modification of the Smoothspyder design this could be avoided. The guard is plastic, no one will ever see the trim but I just hate cutting pieces off of my bike, although I have been getting over that.

Once on the road there is a high pitched whine almost like a turbo spooling up. I also added a Madstad windshield bracket so now I can actually hear things like this since the wind noise is down. In any case the sound of the idler is not bad but you know there is something spinning down there. The vibration is gone. So much so that I kept forgetting to shift into a higher gear. I guess I was shifting when the engine sounded rough but now it just keeps climbing in rpm with no noticeable rough spot. If I pay strict attention I can discern where it wants to vibrate.

After a 100 mile run I noticed my belt was tracking to the outside of the rear pulley. So I started over and readjusted everything and then readjusted the belt tracking at the rear axle. I believe this is all necessary because the Smoothspyder idler pulley just will not adjust to the center of the belt on my bike. I could move the entire thing in board to avoid the trimming and this tracking issue but then I cannot get the idler parallel to the belt. There is something not quite correct in either the design of the bracket or the way it mounts to my particular bike frame.

Another shorter run indicated that the belt was tracking correctly.

All in all this is almost a necessity on my bike with the looser belt spec. The bike was going to shake itself apart without this. It already had gone through one license plate frame in just a few miles. Now it is what I imagine is BMW smooth.

Some of them do have a tendancy to whistle slightly, mine included, the only time I ever noticed it was while decelerating at lower speeds, but either I've gotten used to it or the belt and pulley has worn in together. For every action there is a reaction and I hope a little whistle is better than the detrimental effects and annoyance of the vibration. According to the tech's at the tensioner manufacturer it is most likely the low tension setting combined with the cooling ribs on the back of the belt, a smooth belt would likely be quiet. I have sent out a half dozen replacement idlers to some concerned with excess noise, but after receiving the noisy ones back and trying them on mine, they were as quiet or quieter than mine, I can't explain it. As for the bracket, I could not move the bracket further forward without putting a bend in it, as the swingarm starts bending out and not in line with the belt anymore, the swingarm is more parallel to the belt where the bracket is now, and the bracket was easier to get to and adjust, that's where it ended up. The idler pulley can also be moved inwards or outwards by removing or adding a washer between the pulley and tensioner arm, but the bracket has enough adjustability you shouldn't have to. The Rt tensioner has 1/16th spacers between the tensioner and bracket that can also be removed or added to make up for variances in manufacture or assembly, just in case , but should fit as it comes assembled. The reason I like the belt in the middle of the pulley is so the pressure is inline with the center of the bearing, but it's probably not all that critical, there have been no bearing failures that I'm aware of, and there is not nearly as much tension as this tensioner and pulley are capable of, I fully expect the idlers to last the life of the spyder. The rear sprocket tracking will remain the same if aligned correctly, you should not have to change the static tension or tracking on the rear sprocket. Anyone with any problems or questions feel free to send me a PM.

 

[Bob Denman]

Hey Captain,
I've got a 2010 RT; How do your systems mount up to my model of Spyder? There's not a human on the Planet with less mechanical skills than me... pps:

 

[Recluze]

Some of them do have a tendancy to whistle slightly, mine included, the only time I ever noticed it was while decelerating at lower speeds, but either I've gotten used to it or the belt and pulley has worn in together. For every action there is a reaction and I hope a little whistle is better than the detrimental effects and annoyance of the vibration. According to the tech's at the tensioner manufacturer it is most likely the low tension setting combined with the cooling ribs on the back of the belt, a smooth belt would likely be quiet. I have sent out a half dozen replacement idlers to some concerned with excess noise, but after receiving the noisy ones back and trying them on mine, they were as quiet or quieter than mine, I can't explain it. As for the bracket, I could not move the bracket further forward without putting a bend in it, as the swingarm starts bending out and not in line with the belt anymore, the swingarm is more parallel to the belt where the bracket is now, and the bracket was easier to get to and adjust, that's where it ended up. The idler pulley can also be moved inwards or outwards by removing or adding a washer between the pulley and tensioner arm, but the bracket has enough adjustability you shouldn't have to. The Rt tensioner has 1/16th spacers between the tensioner and bracket that can also be removed or added to make up for variances in manufacture or assembly, just in case , but should fit as it comes assembled. The reason I like the belt in the middle of the pulley is so the pressure is inline with the center of the bearing, but it's probably not all that critical, there have been no bearing failures that I'm aware of, and there is not nearly as much tension as this tensioner and pulley are capable of, I fully expect the idlers to last the life of the spyder. The rear sprocket tracking will remain the same if aligned correctly, you should not have to change the static tension or tracking on the rear sprocket. Anyone with any problems or questions feel free to send me a PM.

On my next hundred mile plus ride I found that the whistling was almost unnoticeable for any and all of the reasons you mentioned. I think it is just running in a more aligned position or it was run in a bit.

On the alignment of the bracket to the frame of the bike I suspect that the bend radius of the bracket and the curvature of the bike frame are not the same. So the bracket does not want to snug up completely to the bike frame and stay there. On my particular bike that makes the alignment a fussy thing but I got it. It could be my skill set. I am running with the belt more to the inside of the idler pulley rather than dead center. This makes the pulley run very close to the plastic belt guard so I took a bit off of the guard.

My drive belt is now where I want it. It may be a little too close to the lip of the rear sprocket but I will put a feeler guage in there and check it.

Bottomline: I don't know if I could run without this. This Smoothspyder thing should be factory equipment. I don't know how many other vibration caused problems are now not going to happen. The ride is much more enjoyable.

 

[Sarge707]

I would spend time getting the allignment perfect and belt tension - I like 140 on the cricket (On the Ground) .
The lower belt tensions increased vibration at certain RPM levels BUT is a lot better than wearing out the bearings and sprocket
pre-maturely? If the vibration is excess you could have other problems- But I,m no expert.:yikes:

I can,t see paying extra $$$ for somehing that should be a minor -normal issue?

 

[Jornie1]

They work well.... Do it!!!

Kim & I have one on each of our 2010 RT's. We now have around 2500 miles on each. Plenty of time for running in and becoming properly seated. The belt vibration is gone... GONE!! We never did have any whistling.... I will say that I had to adjust the tension a time or two to get rid of all vibration... Kind of like trial and error. The first time I put 10 lbs of tension from when the idler just touched the belt. I think you will find that tension should be measured after the tensioner is at the bottom of the slack in the belt. I am completely satisfied with our two and can highly recommend the SmoothSpyder Belt Tensioner to everyone thinking of getting rid of belt vibration. So much so that I think BRP should look into this fix as standard equipment.. IMHO of course.

With a great deal of care mounting and center punching in the middle of the elongated holes on the tensioner bracket there is enough movement available in the elongated holes to correct for any slight mis-alignment. Well... that was how mine went anyway... You know the drill... measure...measure....measure...stare at it for a while, maybe even discuss it with your dog if you have one and then go for it!!! ray:

Len

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BELT VIBRATIONS

I never did nor do I now have any belt vibrations is something wrong with my spyder ?....it seems to be a common problem ....Mike...:thumbup:

 

[MikeinGA]

I never did nor do I now have any belt vibrations is something wrong with my spyder ?....it seems to be a common problem ....Mike...:thumbup:

:agree: I had a vibrations at 70+ mph and I though it was the belt, was a the engine. It was the engine getting oil in the airbox, check your airbox before you do anything. The oil, at high rpm, was going down the throttle body and causing a high speed miss. I added a PCV filter and stopped the oil from getting into the airbox and I installed a K&N air filter due to oil got on the paper filter. If you want more information PM me. If you don't go over 55 mph it won't virbrate.

Mike

 

[Sny]

Everyone talks as though this is something really significantly noticeable.

I don't know how you can tell a belt vibration from any of the other hundreds of vibrating bits on these things

It's a bike... stuff vibrates... never knew that needed fixing...

I'd love to ride a Spyder that has one of these installed to see if I can tell the difference.

 

[Jornie1]

Stuff Vibrates....

Ever ride a Gold Wing or A BMW....Seems not.... The inherent vibration characteristics of the "V Twin" engine ... Well we can't change that, but the slack side of the drive belt vibration... We can... Go with a "SmoothSpyder Belt Tensioner.".... it really does work........Len

Everyone talks as though this is something really significantly noticeable.

I don't know how you can tell a belt vibration from any of the other hundreds of vibrating bits on these things

It's a bike... stuff vibrates... never knew that needed fixing...

I'd love to ride a Spyder that has one of these installed to see if I can tell the difference.