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Small cooling effort

I wonder on some of these really hot bikes if a slightly lower thermostat would help, I've done this w success on different types of vehicles in the past.

Then again, I'm guessing this has all been discussed at length. Lol

There actually is one available on the Aprilia AF1 site. However, its results have been mixed. The general consensus seemed to be that it did very little, if anything.

At least your thinking in the right direction. Everyone seems to forget that these motors are water cooled. Increasing airflow around the motor will do very little for engine cooling.

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venting

Seriously Scotty I know what they are for and am not blocking them only trying to push a little more air under the skin at speed and I do not believe it to be counter productive. I am surprised you did not tell cuzinjohn he wasted his money on the Vertika parts that actually do restrict those vents. In effect I expect little gain engine wise since that depends on coolant flow. Only help there might be an electric water pump but since we have 650W stators that will never work. I have already done most of what you mentioned in Excess Heat In Engine Compartment and in effect this is "power ventilation" at highway speeds I do expect a little (hopefully) cooler gas tank. Air flows from front to back on motorcycles not rear to front. I have thoroughly thought this out and it is one of the few viable ways to pump more air under the skin. Tell you what I will tie some strings behind the vents to test your theory of going in my scoop and being drawn out the rear of the same vent by the passing air flow from the open deflector and I bet they do not stand up. Thanks for your thoughts though. :thumbup:[/QUOT

I installed two cowl vents ,with three inch inlets at the same location as magdave did on his. I think there is more than enough room for the air to exit at the bottom rear, at least on the 2013 rt model. I have removed the wind deflectors so the air is forced down the throats of the vents. of course this action has not lowered the engine temperature {never had a heat issue} but it certainly cooled the engine compartment. the tubberware is cool to the touch after a ride. as for sitting in traffic, I added an exhaust fan just below the engine and operate it by switch. to test the value of the fan, I left the spyder idle for thirty minutes in the garage and the temperature bars never went over five. you would be surprised the hot air that is exhausted out thru that fan . for my purposes {to cool the engine area}these mods work well.
 
.........I don't believe the Veritikas scoops are very effective either, because they have no discharge point for the air they ram in, and they push air in at the top instead of the bottom. They would push in far more air than your small ones however, and can't short circuit because they cover the entire vent space. If there was a good discharge vent toward the rear, I expect they would actually be pretty effective. Just thinking about yours here, and I wonder about scooping in air on the right side (with any exposed exit vent space on that side blocked to prevent short circuits, and letting the left side serve as the exit, without an inlet scoop. The cross flow would be inhibited by the tank and other components, but it might still set up the circulation you are looking for.

This approach likely has some potential.... I have experimented on my RT using the BRP adjustable vents set differently on each side and have been able to use them to cause changes in the Temps under the panels. Riding on the Interstate in hot weather and setting the RH vent open and the LH vent closed made a difference of several degrees under the panels near the intake (where my VDO temp sensor is located).

I have to mention at this point that my oem airbox is long gone and there is plenty of space near the engine for airflow so this might not be as effective on a stock RT with no space for airflow.

I believe using a scoop to increase the air flow across the engine could make a difference...

Updated: 1/26/14. The settings of the BRP vents mentioned above are just descriptions of the 3 available settings and are not meant to imply the air flow was closed off in any way, just redirected...
 
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I didn't intend to upset you with my comments. Sorry if you took it that way. I only wanted to point out that the vents you are working with are not connected to the airflow through the radiator, so should not affect the engine temperature. The venturi action drawing air out of the vents when the deflectors are straight back would be inhibited by the scoops...even if just from disrupting the air and blocking part of the vent. I wish you well in your experiment, but it does not make good aerodynamic or engineering sense, I'm afraid.

I don't believe the Veritikas scoops are very effective either, because they have no discharge point for the air they ram in, and they push air in at the top instead of the bottom. They would push in far more air than your small ones however, and can't short circuit because they cover the entire vent space. If there was a good discharge vent toward the rear, I expect they would actually be pretty effective. Just thinking about yours here, and I wonder about scooping in air on the right side (with any exposed exit vent space on that side blocked to prevent short circuits, and letting the left side serve as the exit, without an inlet scoop. The cross flow would be inhibited by the tank and other components, but it might still set up the circulation you are looking for.

I am not quite following I have them on both sides. I see a post above that used one side open and one closed is that something like what you mean? Different pressures on each side? You do realize they are 3 position and the third will really inhibit flow through and create some more pressure over the vent? The other comment above is also true the rear is totally open under the bike on a 2013 the covers only go back a little more than 1/2 way. Don't worry about upsetting me I always appreciate your comments. :thumbup:
 
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