Simplifying Wiring for Laam Custom F3 Driver Heated Seat?

[Spyder_Cowgirl]

It's been a while since I've been over here ... but I did do a thorough search on this subject. Briefly:

• Only the driver seat is heated (I never carry a passenger).
• I have a Denali Power Hub installed in the frunk; getting the seat pigtail to that point is going to be a pain in the backside.
• I know that there is a connector under the left side of the driver seat labeled GPS2. It is a keyed switched hot that is either tied to F4 (5 amp) or F6 (10 amp). It is this that provides the keyed hot for the power hub.
• The connectors for the heated seat have a 3 amp fuse installed inline.

I would like to simplify my wiring, if I can, and build a "bridge" connector (like Spyderpops does) that would provide connections to both the power hub and to the heated seat (preserving it's inline fuse in the process).

Okay ... so, I am looking for some electrical advice here. Since I am planning to preserve the 3 amp fuse in my bridge connector / harness, am I safe in wiring the heated seat to the GPS2 connector?

Thanks in advance ........... Ann

 

[Jetfixer]

If you are talking about an F3 (You're signature lists an RT), then there will be a much easier way. Under your left access panel next to the gas tank, you'll find a wire with a white tag that says, "Customer Accessory Circuit". It will be capped off and tie-wrapped to another wire bundle. That circuit is only powered when the engine is running. Using good quality waterproof splices you can power your seat there.

 

[Spyder_Cowgirl]

If you are talking about an F3 (You're signature lists an RT), then there will be a much easier way. Under your left access panel next to the gas tank, you'll find a wire with a white tag that says, "Customer Accessory Circuit". It will be capped off and tie-wrapped to another wire bundle. That circuit is only powered when the engine is running. Using good quality waterproof splices you can power your seat there.

Thank you for the response .... yes, I need to update my signature as I have BOTH an RT and F3. That customer accessory circuit is already in use for several pieces of additional lighting (fogs and turn signals, for example). I suppose it is an option, but it is only on when the engine is running ... GPS2 is hot when the key is turned on (and that is why I am not sure which fuse it belongs to ... the wiring diagram is exceedingly hard to read even on my largest computer screen).

All the best ... Ann

 

[Jetfixer]

This might help. It's in the right fuse box. 5A fuse. Also, there should be a total of 3 customer accessory circuits. One I described above, another under the frunk liner or near the battery, and another under the pax seat. They will all have the same white label and be tied to an adjacent wire. They are all fed from a 10 amp fuse.

 

[Spyder_Cowgirl]

This might help. It's in the right fuse box. 5A fuse. Also, there should be a total of 3 customer accessory circuits. One I described above, another under the frunk liner or near the battery, and another under the pax seat. They will all have the same white label and be tied to an adjacent wire. They are all fed from a 10 amp fuse.

View attachment 194132

Yes ... thank you! I believe this means, as long as I maintain the 3 amp fuse in the seat harness, I am safe in wiring the heated seat to this plug. Do you agree?

All the best ....... Ann

 

[Jetfixer]

Yes ... thank you! I believe this means, as long as I maintain the 3 amp fuse in the seat harness, I am safe in wiring the heated seat to this plug. Do you agree?

All the best ....... Ann

Yes, I agree. If the seat ever pulled more than 3 amps, it's fuse would open, and the bike wiring would be protected by the 5 Amp fuse.