• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Side Mirror Arrow Lights

The translation from Chinese to English is a bit confusing. Although it sounds like these are made to install behind the "rear" mirror I highly suspect that they attach to the front surface of the mirror. I may be wrong but I would send a question to the seller about this product and see how they respond.
 
LED Strips DIY

I personally would not take the mirrors apart. Several people on this forum have reported breaking the tabs off. Drilling the hole instead is no big deal. At the risk of making a simple job complicated, I'll outline what I did and show some photos:
First, remove the lower two-wire spring clip -- two screws.
Second, the inside lower corner is where I chose to drill a small hole. To avoid the drill bit wandering, I first just twisted the bit in my fingers to make a small depression in the right spot, then put the bit in the drill and made the hole. Tape the glass so you don't accidentally scratch it.
You can fish the wires thru the drilled hole and thru the open hole where the spring clip should be.
I put sheathing over the new wires but given they're all inside the plastic mirror housing I don't know if that's necessary. I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy.
Use a stiff wire like a single-strand copper wire to fish the new wires back thru the lower hole and thru the mirror and out thru the central hole.
Use posi-taps to tap into the original turn-signal wires. LED's are polarity sensitive so you need to make sure you get + to +, etc. You can test at this point with a 9-V radio battery and confirm that all is working. Then shove the posi-taps back inside the mirror housing and your'e done.
Remember when you're choosing where to tap into the original wires that you should connect at a location near the mirror housing. After putting the connectors inside the mirror housing you want a long original lead still remaining so you can connect easily back to the bike and when you or an unknowing mechanic pulls the mirrors off the next time, they won't be straining the posi-tap connections.
 

Attachments

  • 100_2217.jpg
    100_2217.jpg
    44.7 KB · Views: 220
  • 100_2219.jpg
    100_2219.jpg
    60.9 KB · Views: 222
  • 100_2227.jpg
    100_2227.jpg
    89.1 KB · Views: 203
  • 100_2228.jpg
    100_2228.jpg
    65.7 KB · Views: 199
  • 100_2229.jpg
    100_2229.jpg
    57.2 KB · Views: 220
:agree:Taking the mirrors apart did not seem easy. so I drilled following your pictures. Thankks

I personally would not take the mirrors apart. Several people on this forum have reported breaking the tabs off. Drilling the hole instead is no big deal. At the risk of making a simple job complicated, I'll outline what I did and show some photos:
First, remove the lower two-wire spring clip -- two screws.
Second, the inside lower corner is where I chose to drill a small hole. To avoid the drill bit wandering, I first just twisted the bit in my fingers to make a small depression in the right spot, then put the bit in the drill and made the hole. Tape the glass so you don't accidentally scratch it.
You can fish the wires thru the drilled hole and thru the open hole where the spring clip should be.
I put sheathing over the new wires but given they're all inside the plastic mirror housing I don't know if that's necessary. I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy.
Use a stiff wire like a single-strand copper wire to fish the new wires back thru the lower hole and thru the mirror and out thru the central hole.
Use posi-taps to tap into the original turn-signal wires. LED's are polarity sensitive so you need to make sure you get + to +, etc. You can test at this point with a 9-V radio battery and confirm that all is working. Then shove the posi-taps back inside the mirror housing and your'e done.
Remember when you're choosing where to tap into the original wires that you should connect at a location near the mirror housing. After putting the connectors inside the mirror housing you want a long original lead still remaining so you can connect easily back to the bike and when you or an unknowing mechanic pulls the mirrors off the next time, they won't be straining the posi-tap connections.
 
SIDE MIRROR TURNING SIGNALS

yes and they work really well drilled a small hole behind mirror for wire.was able to thread wire through back of mirror body and solder them to mirror wireing.This was on an rts, mirror has to be removed for this
i iI PURCHASED THE SAME SET UP ..HAD TROUBLE GETTING THE LH MIRROR OFF AND GETTING DOWN TO THE MIRRORBODY. BEFORE DRILLING HOLES, I WENT LOOKING FOR A GROUND FOR THE SIGNAL LAMPS TESTING THE TWO WIRES FOUND THE POS LEAD, BUT THE OTHER WIRE GAVE NO GROUND READING SINCE JUST THE ENTIRE MACHINE IS MADE OF PLASTIC I WAS WONDERING WHERE YOU FOUND THE GROUND FOR THE TURNING LAMPS. IF IT TURNS OUT OT BE THE OTHER WIRE LEAD, I WILL CERTAINALY BE EMBRASSED I MEASURED THE POSITIVE AGAINST A BOLT I FOUND BEHIND THE OIL PANEL --BUT THE OTHER LEAD DID NOT SHOWANY CONTINUNITY TO GROUND. AFTER ATTEMPTING TO FIND A LOCAL GROUND (NG) I IPUT THE ENTIRE MESS BACK TOGETHER WHICH LEAD TOTHE HOUSING NOT GO BACK SO SMOOTH. THE BOTTOM FORWARD STUD DOES NOT FIT SNUG AND THE HOUSING RETAINERHAD TO BE 'BUILT OUT' TO 'FIT' IF THOSE TWO LEADS WERE ALL I NEEDED, I STILL GOT TO FIGURE OUTWHAT I DID WRONG TO LOUSE UP THE LH SIDE. ( HOPE IT WASN'T THAT $$ TAB) THAT OTHER MEMBERS ARE SPEAKING ABOUT
 
EXTRA SIGNAL INDICATORS

THESE ARE ALL NICE JOBS....I WENT SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT ROUTE.....I WANT ALL THE MIRROR VIEW I CAN GET I HAVE A G/S, R/S AND I THINK THE MIRRORS ARE SMALLER.....SOOOO I HAD TWO SINGLE ROUND AMBER LED'S 1/2 INCH DIA.,...I TOOK THE INSTRUMENT POD OFF AND PAINTED THE TRIM YEL. WHILE IT WAS OFF ( LOOKS RAD) ...I DRILLED TWO HOLES ON EITHER SIDE OF THE POD TRIM ( IT KILLED ME TO DO THIS ) SO I COULD PUSH THE LIGHTS IN .....AFTER MAKING EXTENSIONS TO THE LED LEADS I CONNECTED THEM DIRECTLY TO EACH SIGNAL CONNECTOR .....BY PLACING THE STRIPPED END OF SOME PHONE WIRE INTO THE MALE CONNECTION AND PUSHING ON THE FEMALE SIDE .....WAH-LA INSTANT CONNECTION NO ERROR, NO SPLICING , NO WRONG WIRE, NO BAD GROUND, BLAH BLAH BLAH, ETC........NOW I HAVE TWO SMALL TURN SIG INDICATOR LITES ON THE DASH THAT WILL BLINK INDIVIDUALLY UN-LIKE THE GREEN FLASHER BRP PROVIDES....SOMEDAY I'LL FIGURE OUT THE PICTURE POSTING THING ARRRRRRGG......MIKE....:thumbup: I've had two PM's on this soooo I bought them at my local auto parts store for $ 3.50 each..they are very bright, so good in daylite...come in five colors....I also first drilled a same size hole in a thin piece of alum. and painted it flat blk. then glued it to the dash ( I used silicone sealant, you only need it to keep it from moving around ) before putting the lite in....it looks better..and the phone wire is the stuff they put in your house around the walls....it's about # 26 guage...maybe # 28, the led's only draw power in milli-amps so this is fine....it's actually less than what your phone draws so don't worry.....do not use on reg auto wiring.!!!!
 
Last edited:
i iI PURCHASED THE SAME SET UP ..HAD TROUBLE GETTING THE LH MIRROR OFF AND GETTING DOWN TO THE MIRRORBODY. BEFORE DRILLING HOLES, I WENT LOOKING FOR A GROUND FOR THE SIGNAL LAMPS TESTING THE TWO WIRES FOUND THE POS LEAD, BUT THE OTHER WIRE GAVE NO GROUND READING SINCE JUST THE ENTIRE MACHINE IS MADE OF PLASTIC I WAS WONDERING WHERE YOU FOUND THE GROUND FOR THE TURNING LAMPS. IF IT TURNS OUT OT BE THE OTHER WIRE LEAD, I WILL CERTAINALY BE EMBRASSED I MEASURED THE POSITIVE AGAINST A BOLT I FOUND BEHIND THE OIL PANEL --BUT THE OTHER LEAD DID NOT SHOWANY CONTINUNITY TO GROUND. AFTER ATTEMPTING TO FIND A LOCAL GROUND (NG) I IPUT THE ENTIRE MESS BACK TOGETHER WHICH LEAD TOTHE HOUSING NOT GO BACK SO SMOOTH. THE BOTTOM FORWARD STUD DOES NOT FIT SNUG AND THE HOUSING RETAINERHAD TO BE 'BUILT OUT' TO 'FIT' IF THOSE TWO LEADS WERE ALL I NEEDED, I STILL GOT TO FIGURE OUTWHAT I DID WRONG TO LOUSE UP THE LH SIDE. ( HOPE IT WASN'T THAT $$ TAB) THAT OTHER MEMBERS ARE SPEAKING ABOUT

Yes, the other wire is the ground. Don't know why you couldn't detect that but trust me, it is.
 
Back
Top