Shorter-reach bars

[PrairieSpyder]

I have the "short-reach" handle bars on my F3T. But I wish they were about 1.5 to 2 inches closer. I don't get to enjoy the "sit back & stretch out" of the F3 because I have to sit up to drive it. To the extent I do sit back, my arms are like zombie arms. It's really tiring on my arms and shoulders. Joe (Cptjam) suggested risers, but I can't find some that suit the F3 handlebar mounts. (If anyone knows of some they think would work, please post here.)

So im putting this out there. I wish some enterprising SL vendor would come up with some risers that would work. I'd buy them in a minute. I'm gonna pm Lamont about this. But there may be others who'd be interested.

 

[spyderpagan]

I have the "short-reach" handle bars on my F3T. But I wish they were about 1.5 to 2 inches closer. I don't get to enjoy the "sit back & stretch out" of the F3 because I have to sit up to drive it. To the extent I do sit back, my arms are like zombie arms. It's really tiring on my arms and shoulders. Joe (Cptjam) suggested risers, but I can't find some that suit the F3 handlebar mounts. (If anyone knows of some they think would work, please post herebar

So im putting this out there. I wish so me enterprising SL vendor would come up with some risers that would work. I'd buy them in a minute. I'm gonna pm Lamont about this. But there may be others who'd be interested.

Try loosening the bar clamp and turning the handlebars down a couple inches , will bring them closer . Worked for me , hands used to get numb on long rides , no more :yes:

 

[H2O]

Be careful rotating the bars down. When turning to full left lock, switch housing may hit the body above the gas tank.

H2O

 

[NautiBrit]

Patti,

Check out Rox risers, they have a variety of risers for different bars and extensions. Although none are specifically made for the Spyder, you should be able to find a set that fits. The caveat would be cable length.


roxspeedfx.com.

 

[Bob Denman]

Patti,
:agree: with the idea of trying to rotate the bars a little bit... I THINK that there's a locating tab on some of the pieces... :shocked: They can be pretty-much ignored, and ground down. :thumbup:
Just be careful of handlebar clearances at full-lock. nojoke

 

[Highwayman2013]

I have the "short-reach" handle bars on my F3T. But I wish they were about 1.5 to 2 inches closer. I don't get to enjoy the "sit back & stretch out" of the F3 because I have to sit up to drive it. To the extent I do sit back, my arms are like zombie arms. It's really tiring on my arms and shoulders. Joe (Cptjam) suggested risers, but I can't find some that suit the F3 handlebar mounts. (If anyone knows of some they think would work, please post here.)

So im putting this out there. I wish some enterprising SL vendor would come up with some risers that would work. I'd buy them in a minute. I'm gonna pm Lamont about this. But there may be others who'd be interested.

It seems you need someone to machine one or a different handlebar. Hope you get some relief soon.

 

[Highwayman2013]

These may work, they look like they could be angled if there is enough room to clamp the bars on each side of the stock clamp.http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/53759/i/rox-speed-fx-elite-series-anti-vibration-pivot-risers

 

[PrairieSpyder]

Try loosening the bar clamp and turning the handlebars down a couple inches , will bring them closer . Worked for me , hands used to get numb on long rides , no more :yes:

They're rotated down as far as possible with still being able to turn fully.

 

[Bob Denman]

I haven't looked that closely at how things are put together on the F3s... Could you take a set of conventional bars, and mount them? :dontknow:
If that's an option within reason!); you could just start handlebar shopping, at any number of online sites.
Just take some measurements of what you have, and keep an eye out for something that's a bit taller, with a bit more pullback... :thumbup:

 

[trikermutha]

If I am picturing the risers like on a Harley. The idea of changing the risers would work. They can be made higher/ lower or back more.
All that would need to be done is replace the risers and then remount the handlebars.

 

[Highwayman2013]

If I am picturing the risers like on a Harley. The idea of changing the risers would work. They can be made higher/ lower or back more.
All that would need to be done is replace the risers and then remount the handlebars.

If you look at the clamp BRP uses it is angled at the outer edge so you need a riser that can twist to a parallel position to fit the bars. The clamp on the F3 looks to be one big piece but without having one it's hard to speculate.

 

[PrairieSpyder]

Here's what the handlebar mount looks like.


I dont think hunk any of the Rox products will work.

 

[trikermutha]

does someone sell pull back F3 handlebars??

 

[Bob Denman]

Patti,
If the grips and switches just slide on over the handlebar ends, (I think that they do), you just need to find some new handlebars of the same diameter, but with a different bend... :thumbup:
(They clamp onto the bike in the same manner!)

 

[NautiBrit]

Here's what the handlebar mount looks like.


I dont think hunk any of the Rox products will work.

Although the top bracket is angled rather than square, I think that the Rox would have enough length for the bracket to get sufficient purchase on the Rox. Maybe an email to Rox along with the photo would elicit a response?

 

[Bruce B]

BRP Bars are a user fit system

Why don't you just go back to a Spyder dealer because they all were supplied with a user fit system from BRP that they should have setup on a Spyder so you can find out what bars you like and then the dealer orders the correct bars for you.:yes:
BRP have gone out of there way with this system so keep it simple don't go trying other bars that are not made for your Spyder and don't go grinding the stops off like some on here have told you to do they are there for a reason.:banghead:

 

[Bob Denman]

She's already using the shortest reach bars, that BRP offers...

 

[Colin]

The riser block that is used for the F3 Drag bar would be about right, but you cant just buy the riser block
you have to buy the whole set, bars included

 

[loisk]

Hmm.
If those risers from the drag bar work with your short reach bar and may solve the problem, keep an eye out in case anybody takes the drag bars off their Daytona in favour of another bar, then grab the drag bar AND riser, and just use the riser part. I've filed this snippet away in case my planned new short reach bars need a bit of help. My s-r bars are for husband's "old" F3S as he's hoping-to-buy the Daytona and already doesn't want the drag bars, just not for him he says.
Just a thought...

 

[bigwhammy]

All model f3 have the same lower steering column p/n 709401397.
Theoretically. Try ordering the p/n 709401680 black lift posts X 4 and the p/n 231103060 Srew socket m10 x130 mm. I would get these and try them as the cheapest quick fix not sure what colour they are could be yellow but black paint can fix that.
it appears that these may bring it closer by 90 mm. Not sure but you may need this also
p/n 709401775 black handle clamp assembly. I think this is just a minor upgrade to make the bars tighter or maybe does not have a pin.
Failing that.
Just a suggestion . . Take them to a competent fitter machinist to insert 50mm sleeves to each side.
the bars are hollow and nothing is in the middle. A good machinist and tig welder can do it. It would just necessitate getting them powder coated.
i have chrome short reach and they are really good. I found that having foot boards helped out as well, the cannonball seat also sits you a bit differently.
let us know how you go as their are a few people who would like this option also.