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Short Shifting?

jmcbow

New member
Ok, so this is probably going to sound like a realy dumb question, so humor me.

I recently took a friend for a spin on my new RT. After the ride a conversation ensued at which time I was told that I had a tendency to "short shift". In other words, I'm not letting it wind up enough before shifting up. As there really are no guidelines in the owners manual concerning at what RPM one shifts, and there is no "shift up" indicator, I've always gone by what "felt" right. In other words, if you let out the clutch and it doesn't lug, your probably at the right RPM to up shift. Again, I'm sure some of you think this is a dumb question, but a small wager hangs in the balance here so help me out. How much do you "wind it up" before up shifting? :dontknow:
 
For me, it's speed related. If I'm just putzing around, I'll shift at a lot lower RPMs than when I am taking off quickly. I don't really pay too much attention to the specific RPMs at the time but, if I had to guess, I'd say I upshift anywhere from 3500 - 6500 RPMs.
 
That was kind of my thinking as well. It really depends on the situation. There is no one RPM at which to shift. It depends on the how "hard" you happen to be riding at the time.
 
If you put the SE in trailer mode it won't shift till 4600 rpm's. I think that's a good indicater of where you should shift.
 
welcome
I just shift by feel [ear?] been doing it that way from my 3 on the tree days. As long as your not LUGGING it your good, Now if you want to out run or pass some one quick, the red line will do just fine

P/S The only dumb question is the one you don't ask! So feel free to ask about any thing.
We are all good people here.:thumbup:
 
Good question, I hope ya win the bet, anyhow when I first started riding i would shift btwn 3K to 4500 rpms

and after listening to others say that the rotax doesn't wake up until 5-6k, well that's where I shift when

I am going, heck getting on a freeway here in LA I most often will take first out to 7K,before shifting and

then 2nd to 6500 then 3rd and 4th, not really paying attn where I shift, just goin by sound and feel, I find

myself riding in 4th on the

freeway going btwn 65-70ish in 4th rather than fifth, just in case I need to get on it to get out of the

way of any issue, the response in 4th is so much more instant ad controllable.
 
Good question, I hope ya win the bet, anyhow when I first started riding i would shift btwn 3K to 4500 rpms

and after listening to others say that the rotax doesn't wake up until 5-6k, well that's where I shift when

I am going, heck getting on a freeway here in LA I most often will take first out to 7K,before shifting and

then 2nd to 6500 then 3rd and 4th, not really paying attn where I shift, just goin by sound and feel, I find

myself riding in 4th on the

freeway going btwn 65-70ish in 4th rather than fifth, just in case I need to get on it to get out of the

way of any issue, the response in 4th is so much more instant ad controllable.
Agree:2thumbs:

Glynnk
 
The Sweet Spot ...

Between 45-50k seems to be the sweet spot without lugging on my RT-S SE5.

:2thumbs:
 
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forgive me I'm old but in my day Short shifting was an attempt to shift at a very fast rate while just pulling the Cluch in just enought to allow for engagment. Sound like the trem you are lokking for is lugging the motor or shift at too low RPM. each bike will have its own sweet spot. you will hear the engine and know when to shift by the sound or vibes you feel. These seem to like the 4000 range. just a hint it is normally better to shift higher rather than lug the motor/ think of lugging like the sound of a train chug chug chug
Around here, what you describe was called "speed shifting" when I was a pup. Shifting at less than an optimal rpm was called "short shifting", as described above. Different groups of folks call things by different names. Here in Michigan colas are "pop", but elsewhere they are "soda". It matters not what things are called, but it can lead to some head scratching and puzzled looks.

For my money, the optimal shift point is one where the rpm will not fall below where the engine runs well in the lower gear. In other words, if the Spyder RT feels better at 5,000 rpm or better, shift at 6,000 to 6,500 to keep it above five grand when it hits the next gear. Obviously, there is room to maneuver here. If you are on a flat road cruising, you might shift lower. If you are trying to merge into freeway traffic, you might take it higher. There is no "magic" number, there are no rules. Do what your butt, or ego, or wallet tells you at the moment.
 
Short Shifting

I'm really glad you asked this question, because as a new Spyder man I have noticed that when I shift from 1st gear to 2nd, sometimes it drags or slips into 2nd gear. In other words, not a quick click like what should happen. By the way, I have the SE5.

I recently have figured out that I am not going fast enough to shift into 2nd gear...even if my RPM's are at 3,000 it labors into 2nd gear. That has taught me to simply stay in 1st gear. I was concerned that I would be taxing the motor too much by staying in gear 1, but now I see that I need to be going faster before I change gears. Now I get my RPM up to 4,000 or more before I move to gear 2 and I get a good, solid clicking gear change.
 
Similiar Subject

This is a similiar subject;
I test rode a RT SE5 and then ordered it(to be built next week)
Anyway, the dealer that took me for a test ride said that there was no problem with "flat shifting" either. Hold the throttle open, shift up through the gears and never let off of the throttle. I tried it with him watching me and sure enough, very quick speed, no problems. nojoke
 
This is a similiar subject;
I test rode a RT SE5 and then ordered it(to be built next week)
Anyway, the dealer that took me for a test ride said that there was no problem with "flat shifting" either. Hold the throttle open, shift up through the gears and never let off of the throttle. I tried it with him watching me and sure enough, very quick speed, no problems. nojoke
That is the correct way to shift an SE5.
 
That's interesting, it was presented to me as an alternative on my test ride. I am glad I mentioned this here as I liked it. Thanks :2thumbs:
The SE has a "throttle blipper" feature, that automatically takes care of the throttle for you when shifting. You can back off the throttle yourself, but it has a tendency to produce rough shifts...and they are slower. Also, be sure you shift at high enough rpm. If you shift too quick, the rpm in the higher gear may be insufficient, causing the Spyder to want to downshift again immediately. For smoothest shifting, get the rpms up a bit, hold the trottle steady, and hit the button, from what I have seen and been told. You'll find what works best for you, very quickly. Experiment a bit.
 
I'm really glad you asked this question, because as a new Spyder man I have noticed that when I shift from 1st gear to 2nd, sometimes it drags or slips into 2nd gear. In other words, not a quick click like what should happen. By the way, I have the SE5.

I recently have figured out that I am not going fast enough to shift into 2nd gear...even if my RPM's are at 3,000 it labors into 2nd gear. That has taught me to simply stay in 1st gear. I was concerned that I would be taxing the motor too much by staying in gear 1, but now I see that I need to be going faster before I change gears. Now I get my RPM up to 4,000 or more before I move to gear 2 and I get a good, solid clicking gear change.
Like I said :D
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=202520&postcount=5
 
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