Shifting sweet spot....

[Jeriatric]

:agree: Maybe they should put a voice message that tells you when to shift, Like the one some cars had;;

[Female voice],
Your door is ajar.:roflblack:

Like the Garmin gal :roflblack: She's a winner for sure.

 

[donec]

View attachment 49093


$35.00


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...31_12?ie=UTF8&m=A3Q5L29ROA0I31&n=&s=&v=glance

Under features it says "Works with 4, 6, and 8 Cylinder Gasoline Vehicles". Spyder has 2.

 

[Jeriatric]

Under features it says "Works with 4, 6, and 8 Cylinder Gasoline Vehicles". Spyder has 2.

Seen any 2cyl cars lately. If so, I'm sure they would at it. :joke:

 

[Daisyjoe]

I have a question. I know you guys will roll your eyes and say "women". When I am riding and I slow down, the speed drops to 40 to 45 (still in 5th gear), should I manually downshift to another gear? Is it doing harm to my transmission to let the machine take charge of changing gears? After reading these posts on changing gears at high RPMs, I might be setting myself up for a trip to the dealership for repairs. I have a 2010 RS SE5.

 

[Jeriatric]

I have a question. I know you guys will roll your eyes and say "women". When I am riding and I slow down, the speed drops to 40 to 45 (still in 5th gear), should I manually downshift to another gear? Is it doing harm to my transmission to let the machine take charge of changing gears? After reading these posts on changing gears at high RPMs, I might be setting myself up for a trip to the dealership for repairs. I have a 2010 RS SE5.

Not me, that's not my style. Try this, when you're decelerating and the tach hits between 4500 and 4000 RPM bump the paddle to downshift. Try to keep your RPM at or above 4000. Granted you can't always do it, just do it when you can.

Jer

 

[Jeriatric]

Ow!! :yikes:....Ow!! :yikes:......:shocked:

(Sweet female voice)......SHIFT you idiot!!

:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

That was GREAT!! :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

 

[mtbear]

I also found that 5000 rpm seems to be the sweet spot on mine also, nice and smooth shifting.
mtbear:thumbup:

 

[Bob Denman]

Scotty's right; two tachs, and we need a light too?? :shocked: :roflblack:
By the way; does anybody ever look at the analog speedometer? (the one on the left; in case you hadn't jnoticed it...)

 

[dannymax]

Scotty's right; two tachs, and we need a light too?? :shocked: :roflblack:
By the way; does anybody ever look at the analog speedometer? (the one on the left; in case you hadn't jnoticed it...)

Well, now that you mention it......no, I don't. :shocked:

 

[Bob Denman]

Well then that'd be a great spot to put the shift indicator light that we all need... :thumbup: :roflblack:

 

[Jeriatric]

Well then that'd be a great spot to put the shift indicator light that we all need... :thumbup: :roflblack:

Bob........you must have missed this part of the post, and I quote.

"Posted this for anyone that may be interested in having a RED LINE indicator."

Jer

 

[smoky]

shif

By the way; does anybody ever look at the analog speedometer? (the one on the left; in case you hadn't jnoticed it...)


What analog speedometer?:bowdown:smoky

 

[Sny]

I have a question. I know you guys will roll your eyes and say "women". When I am riding and I slow down, the speed drops to 40 to 45 (still in 5th gear), should I manually downshift to another gear? Is it doing harm to my transmission to let the machine take charge of changing gears? After reading these posts on changing gears at high RPMs, I might be setting myself up for a trip to the dealership for repairs. I have a 2010 RS SE5.

I don't think you'll do much damage letting it downshift on it's own. It's mostly when under power that you can damage the clutches.

I would think that decelerating lightly (coasting) and letting it downshift automatically (which is at 2750 I believe?) wouldn't put much strain on the clutches... and it would be brief. Cooking the clutches would require a higher load for a longer period of time. This is why normally accelerating PAST 3200 rpms won't hurt them beyond normal wear. It's that cruising along for several minutes (or hours) at 3000 rpms that causes them to never fully lock up and burn up.

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: It's the load on them when they're not fully locked-up that'll cook them... :shocked: