• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Shifting problems from 1st to second. Not downshifting, No or very Low oil?

AZLife

New member
I have a 2013 RT-S with 4300 miles on it. Last service done at 1000 miles back in October. The last two weeks or so I have noticed some extremely rough shifting from 1[SUP]st[/SUP] to second. i get an unusually loud clunking nose, louder and rougher than the norm. At times, the Spyder will rear backwards and then forwards (lurching) when shifting into second from a normal shifting speed of about 30 mph. Kind of like a mechanical bull trying to throw me off :shocked:. Other times when coming to a stop, the Spyder won't downshift to 1st gear, sometimes sticking in 3rd or 2nd gear even when in a full stop. I've also had an experience where I lost power/acceleration when making a left turn through an intersection and it kind of coasted for a few feet before regaining acceleration power (I was not going fast, nor making a sharp left. I highly doubt that this was due to the "nanny" as it wouldn't allow me to do anything).

So, I decided to check the engine oil last night. Followed the directions in the manual. Had just come back from a short ride, let the bike sit for a few minutes with engine off. Turned it back on (around 3 bars or so), then shut it down and checked the dipstick (after a wipe and re-insertion). No oil, not even a drop on the dipstick. Tried this several times. A flashlight showed some oil appearing, but not a lot. Have never seen any oil dripping or any stains on garage floor.

Here are some of my many questions that hopefully some of you will have experience with:
1. Could the shifting problems mentioned above be from a lack of oil?
2. Where could the oil have gone?
3. Could it be that the previous mechanic didn't fill up the oil canister?
4. Could the engine be damaged already due the very low oil?
5. Why has the oil light not come on by now?
6. I have NOT checked the oil since the 1st service. How normal is it to do this, even though the manual recommends it? Guess I will do it more often now.

Feedback, thoughts greatly appreciated, especially what you think I should do now, short of taking it in right away for it's 5000 mile service. (maybe add oil myself to see if it helps the problems?)

Thanks, all, and Merry Christmas to you!
 
Relax a bit..!!

yes the shifting is affected by low oil.
Though critisized for it...it goes up in smoke..to the air box
You need to check your oil every 500 miles or so. Make sure you screw the dipstick all the way in when checking..over filling has it's side effects also
The mechanic could have incorrect amount of oil in it but not likely
The oil light is controled by oil pressure not oil level
You can damage your engine but you would have the lights and warnings going off before that

I like to check my oil right after a long ryde. Engine is hot and easy to check it..enjoy your ryde you will get used to it and oil consumption gets better the more you ryde it....:thumbup:
 
I have a 2013 RT-S with 4300 miles on it. Last service done at 1000 miles back in October. The last two weeks or so I have noticed some extremely rough shifting from 1[SUP]st[/SUP] to second. i get an unusually loud clunking nose, louder and rougher than the norm. At times, the Spyder will rear backwards and then forwards (lurching) when shifting into second from a normal shifting speed of about 30 mph. Kind of like a mechanical bull trying to throw me off :shocked:. Other times when coming to a stop, the Spyder won't downshift to 1st gear, sometimes sticking in 3rd or 2nd gear even when in a full stop. I've also had an experience where I lost power/acceleration when making a left turn through an intersection and it kind of coasted for a few feet before regaining acceleration power (I was not going fast, nor making a sharp left. I highly doubt that this was due to the "nanny" as it wouldn't allow me to do anything).

So, I decided to check the engine oil last night. Followed the directions in the manual. Had just come back from a short ride, let the bike sit for a few minutes with engine off. Turned it back on (around 3 bars or so), then shut it down and checked the dipstick (after a wipe and re-insertion). No oil, not even a drop on the dipstick. Tried this several times. A flashlight showed some oil appearing, but not a lot. Have never seen any oil dripping or any stains on garage floor.

Here are some of my many questions that hopefully some of you will have experience with:
1. Could the shifting problems mentioned above be from a lack of oil?
2. Where could the oil have gone?
3. Could it be that the previous mechanic didn't fill up the oil canister?
4. Could the engine be damaged already due the very low oil?
5. Why has the oil light not come on by now?
6. I have NOT checked the oil since the 1st service. How normal is it to do this, even though the manual recommends it? Guess I will do it more often now.

Feedback, thoughts greatly appreciated, especially what you think I should do now, short of taking it in right away for it's 5000 mile service. (maybe add oil myself to see if it helps the problems?)

Thanks, all, and Merry Christmas to you!

Answers:
1. Yes, low oil level can/will affect shifting
2. It could have been consumed or perhaps the tech did not fill it "full" at the 1000 mile service.
3. Yes.
4. Possibly but probably not.
5. Your oil level is not low enough to cause your oil light to come on.
6. Recommend you check your oil level regularly until you learn your motor's oil usage. Especially recommend checking your oil after dealer service.

I doubt that you have done any damage. Add oil per procedures in your manual and go for a ryde. I'll bet you'll find your shifting issues have been resolved. Good luck.
 
Wow, great response time!

Man, you guys and this site are awesome. Posted my question and within 10 minutes have the answers! Unfortunately my Christmas evening ride might be cancelled since not even a Walmart is open to quickly run to get some motorcycle oil. Hope no damage has been done! Thanks for the quick replies and advice! Merry Christmas.
 
you got the answers but i want to agin tell you to make sure when you do check the oil the bike is warm enough some times a small ride wont be warm enough more like a 30 to 40 minet ride that should be warm enough,to be at what they mean by operationg temps.and alwas check after you get home after a service is done by your bike shop ive check and two times they had too much oil and too much oil gose in your air box.too much is also bad.i had to pump out almost a half qut.:chat:
 
So, I decided to check the engine oil last night. Followed the directions in the manual. Had just come back from a short ride, let the bike sit for a few minutes with engine off. Turned it back on (around 3 bars or so), then shut it down and checked the dipstick (after a wipe and re-insertion). No oil, not even a drop on the dipstick. Tried this several times. A flashlight showed some oil appearing, but not a lot. Have never seen any oil dripping or any stains on garage floor.

When you let the bike sit after you turned off the bike, this might have cause you to read a lower level. When you come in from a ride or right after the service from the ride home put the bike in "N" and let it idle for atleast 30 seconds.

Its sounds like you possible didn't have it at normal operating temp either when you checked it or when you got back and shut it off it might not of finished draining back down into the reservoir.

What I do is after a ride I put the bike in "N" w/ the parking brake on and let it idle. Then I let it sit there while I grab a rag and take the side panel off. That is atleast 30 seconds and allows the oil to drain back down. I then shut the bike off and then check immediately. I have noticed that I have about 1 minute give or take before I can start to see the oil change start to change, showing a lower reading as the time keeps elapsing.

Like others have said if you were really in trouble with the engine you would of seen lights. I would go on your XMas ride and just check it again when you get home.
 
Man, you guys and this site are awesome. Posted my question and within 10 minutes have the answers! Unfortunately my Christmas evening ride might be cancelled since not even a Walmart is open to quickly run to get some motorcycle oil. Hope no damage has been done! Thanks for the quick replies and advice! Merry Christmas.

Read your owners manual to ensure you get the correct type of oil.
 
Good advice and answers here. One thing I would add to teh oil checking procedure, in addition to being at full operating temperature when you check (i.e. after a ride). Be sure you screw in the diptick when reinserting. Just inserting it in the hole will make it read too low.
 
Thanks all for your comments regarding oil. Any feedback or thought on the shifting issue, assuming the oil level is fine due to a misreading of it?

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks all for your comments regarding oil. Any feedback or thought on the shifting issue, assuming the oil level is fine due to a misreading of it?

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

I'd see your dealer. Could be as simple as a clogged transmission filter or as complex as TCM problem. Let them figure it out and make it right. That's what a warranty is for.
 
I agree but......

I'd see your dealer. Could be as simple as a clogged transmission filter or as complex as TCM problem. Let them figure it out and make it right. That's what a warranty is for.

no :spyder2: for the long weekend :yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes: The dealers here have slow turn around times nojokenojoke I'd try checking oil after a ride :pray::pray::pray: than add if needed :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: hopefully it's as simple as that :clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:. If not, to dealer you go:banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead: let us know what happens:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
 
You should always check your oil level after having your Spyder serviced. It is all too common to get overfilled or underfilled. The Spyder will burn some oil, (some more than others). And some will put oil into the air box. So it isn't a surprise that your oil level will go down. But knowing that you've stared with the correct level will give you a much better idea of just how much oil you're using. Not to mention, checking every 500 miles or so should keep you from having shifting issues.
 
I'd see your dealer. Could be as simple as a clogged transmission filter or as complex as TCM problem. Let them figure it out and make it right. That's what a warranty is for.
I'm hoping that the level was read correctly, and this is as simple as getting some more "dino-squeezings" (Synthetic or otherwise! :D), in the tank! :thumbup:
 
You should always check your oil level after having your Spyder serviced. It is all too common to get overfilled or underfilled. The Spyder will burn some oil, (some more than others). And some will put oil into the air box. So it isn't a surprise that your oil level will go down. But knowing that you've stared with the correct level will give you a much better idea of just how much oil you're using. Not to mention, checking every 500 miles or so should keep you from having shifting issues.

:agree: Every owner should know how to correctly check his or her oil level, check it frequently, and check following every service.
 
AND REMEMBER THIS

I didn't see this mentioned .........be sure to have the spyder on as LEVEL a surface as possible........it really makes a BIG difference if it's not......What may look relatively level to the eye is PROBABLY NOT.....your Garage floor most likely is.......if you think the lawn is level ....check it with a " carpenters level " you will be surprised how not level it is .........just sayin................Mike :thumbup:
 
shifting

I have a 2013 RT-S with 4300 miles on it. Last service done at 1000 miles back in October. The last two weeks or so I have noticed some extremely rough shifting from 1[SUP]st[/SUP] to second. i get an unusually loud clunking nose, louder and rougher than the norm. At times, the Spyder will rear backwards and then forwards (lurching) when shifting into second from a normal shifting speed of about 30 mph. Kind of like a mechanical bull trying to throw me off :shocked:. Other times when coming to a stop, the Spyder won't downshift to 1st gear, sometimes sticking in 3rd or 2nd gear even when in a full stop. I've also had an experience where I lost power/acceleration when making a left turn through an intersection and it kind of coasted for a few feet before regaining acceleration power (I was not going fast, nor making a sharp left. I highly doubt that this was due to the "nanny" as it wouldn't allow me to do anything).

So, I decided to check the engine oil last night. Followed the directions in the manual. Had just come back from a short ride, let the bike sit for a few minutes with engine off. Turned it back on (around 3 bars or so), then shut it down and checked the dipstick (after a wipe and re-insertion). No oil, not even a drop on the dipstick. Tried this several times. A flashlight showed some oil appearing, but not a lot. Have never seen any oil dripping or any stains on garage floor.

Here are some of my many questions that hopefully some of you will have experience with:
1. Could the shifting problems mentioned above be from a lack of oil?
2. Where could the oil have gone?
3. Could it be that the previous mechanic didn't fill up the oil canister?
4. Could the engine be damaged already due the very low oil?
5. Why has the oil light not come on by now?
6. I have NOT checked the oil since the 1st service. How normal is it to do this, even though the manual recommends it? Guess I will do it more often now.

Feedback, thoughts greatly appreciated, especially what you think I should do now, short of taking it in right away for it's 5000 mile service. (maybe add oil myself to see if it helps the problems?)

Thanks, all, and Merry Christmas to you!
check your clutch oil level, it takes #4 brake fluid
 
Back
Top