Shifting problems from 1st to second. Not downshifting, No or very Low oil?

[NancysToy]

Off hand I would say there is something wrong here. With a dry sump system there is a check valve designed to prevent oil from re-entering the small oil sump in the engine. Otherwise there will be too much oil in the engine at start-up. The scavenging pump will fix this fairly quickly, but it isn't good at start-up.

The usual cause of the level dropping quickly is dissipation of entrained bubbles from the return oil. Some oils retain the bubbles (foam) more readily than others. I find that the oil levels are the most stable if the initial reading is done from 1-3 minutes after the engine is shut off. Too soon and it reads a little high due to the foam (all dry sump engines foam the oil a bit, as the scavenging pump is not always fully immersed, so it can pump air as well as oil out of the sump). Read it after too long a wait and oil can cool and read low, or drain back to the sump, depending on the condition of the check valve and the position of the oil pump rotors. If your engine drains quickly or the tank drains dry, your oiling system should be examined. In that case your check may be bad or the oil pump may be scored or badly worn.

 

[Dizneyman]

wealth of information

As always Scotty. you are a wealth of information and have a way of explaining things that makes it easy for me to understand.

Thanks my friend!!!

:bowdown:

 

[missouriboy]

...Read it after too long a wait and oil can cool and read low, or drain back to the sump, depending on the condition of the check valve and the position of the oil pump rotors...

I had toyed with the idea of learning how the stick would read cold by checking according to manual procedures, then waiting overnight to see where this registers with a cold engine...

According to Scotty's post above, this is NOT acceptable! That makes sense too, else why wouldn't BRP just calibrate the dipstick to work that way? (Like an oilpan dipstick.)
So I agree, Scotty's posts are worth their weight in gold!! :yes:

 

[AZLife]

I have a 2013 RT-S with 4300 miles on it. Last service done at 1000 miles back in October. The last two weeks or so I have noticed some extremely rough shifting from 1[SUP]st[/SUP] to second. i get an unusually loud clunking nose, louder and rougher than the norm. At times, the Spyder will rear backwards and then forwards (lurching) when shifting into second from a normal shifting speed of about 30 mph. Kind of like a mechanical bull trying to throw me off :shocked:. Other times when coming to a stop, the Spyder won't downshift to 1st gear, sometimes sticking in 3rd or 2nd gear even when in a full stop. I've also had an experience where I lost power/acceleration when making a left turn through an intersection and it kind of coasted for a few feet before regaining acceleration power (I was not going fast, nor making a sharp left. I highly doubt that this was due to the "nanny" as it wouldn't allow me to do anything).

So, I decided to check the engine oil last night. Followed the directions in the manual. Had just come back from a short ride, let the bike sit for a few minutes with engine off. Turned it back on (around 3 bars or so), then shut it down and checked the dipstick (after a wipe and re-insertion). No oil, not even a drop on the dipstick. Tried this several times. A flashlight showed some oil appearing, but not a lot. Have never seen any oil dripping or any stains on garage floor.

Here are some of my many questions that hopefully some of you will have experience with:
1. Could the shifting problems mentioned above be from a lack of oil?
2. Where could the oil have gone?
3. Could it be that the previous mechanic didn't fill up the oil canister?
4. Could the engine be damaged already due the very low oil?
5. Why has the oil light not come on by now?
6. I have NOT checked the oil since the 1st service. How normal is it to do this, even though the manual recommends it? Guess I will do it more often now.

Feedback, thoughts greatly appreciated, especially what you think I should do now, short of taking it in right away for it's 5000 mile service. (maybe add oil myself to see if it helps the problems?)

Thanks, all, and Merry Christmas to you!

Update: 01/08/2013

Spyder continued to run great after adding the Mobil 1, but I decided to take the Spyder into the Dealer for routine maintenance and to get the oil changed out. Getting home from the dealer after a 45 minute ride, I was unable to get an accurate reading on the dipstick. There was oil on the entire dipstick. Next day tried it while warm again, and still the same result. The next morning checked while totally cold and oil level clearly showed FULL. So it appears that the Dealer incorrectly filled the oil and overfilled it? I can't believe it. Spyder going back into the shop soon for a new fuel sending unit (pump module?). I'll have them remove some oil at that time and put them on the spot about why it's showing full while cold.

 

[NancysToy]

Update: 01/08/2013

Spyder continued to run great after adding the Mobil 1, but I decided to take the Spyder into the Dealer for routine maintenance and to get the oil changed out. Getting home from the dealer after a 45 minute ride, I was unable to get an accurate reading on the dipstick. There was oil on the entire dipstick. Next day tried it while warm again, and still the same result. The next morning checked while totally cold and oil level clearly showed FULL. So it appears that the Dealer incorrectly filled the oil and overfilled it? I can't believe it. Spyder going back into the shop soon for a new fuel sending unit (pump module?). I'll have them remove some oil at that time and put them on the spot about why it's showing full while cold.

:gaah: Maybe it's time to find a new dealer...or consider doing some of the maintenance yourself. You can remove some oil using a small length of tubing (or a turkey baster). Just insert the tubing into the oil, put your thumb over the end, and pulll out the tubing. Drain the oil into a waste container by removing your thumb, and repeat as many times as necessary. It is slow, but cheap and effective. BTW, make sure you are not reading the oil level too quickly after you shut off the hot engine. It takes 30-60 seconds for most of the bubbles to subside. I usually try to read within 1-2 minutes.

 

[Bob Denman]

So I agree, Scotty's posts are worth their weight in gold!! :yes:

:gaah: Maybe it's time to find a new dealer...

Scotty's two-cents is CLEARLY worth thirty-seven dollars... and change!
nojoke