Shift Points on the 1330 cc engine

[DaveMcC]

I'm about to purchase a 2017 RT LTD with less than 1000 miles on the odo... but before I do that, can anyone enlighten me about the happy rev range and recommended shift point for the 1300 engine? I have owned an an incredible 2013 ST LTD Spyder with a little over 32,000 miles on the odo and it demands a shift point of 5000 rpm and above. The longer I've had the bike, the higher the shift point (rev range) required to keep the 998 cc engine happy. Done well (in the right rev range), I get 33 mpg on average. I'd like to know if there's a significant change in the approach to shift point and rev ranges or is it just a bigger Rotax engine with the same shifting process. And, any other notes for me about shifting to the RT from an ST? By the way, I added a Bajaron sway bar and Fox adj. shocks to improve cornering on the ST. Am I going to have to do that again with the RT?

 

[MONK]

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...t-Do-s-and-Do-Nots-quot-for-new-Spyder-owners

 

[SpyderAnn01]

The 1330 is much more forgiving than the 998. You can wind it out or you can put it in Eco Mode and shift when the arrow tells you to.

 

[RICZ]

I'm upshifting at 4K++. Depending how fast I want to accelerate, I will shift up at 6K. It won't hurt to go above that after the engine is well broken in.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

If I'm just putting around, I shift mine at 2500 .... if I'm in the twistie's and pushing it - 5000 to 6000 .... If at the drag track 7000 ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[FlyBoy2121]

Hi Guys

For my 2014 RTL 3000 RPM has two people on it is very smooth on the gear change.

FlyBoy2121

 

[SpyderConvert]

I've found that if your speed/rpm's are below an acceptable point, you can't upshift.

 

[Mazo EMS2]

I typically shift up at around 3500 rpm. It really does depend on conditions/situations. No real concerns about shift points with the 1330 compared to the 998. If you really wanna simplify it, think of 1 gear up for every 10mph. So by the time ya get to 60mph you might be in 6th gear......just as an example....certainly not a guideline by any means. On another note, I like to downshift me SE6, some people prefer to just let the bike downshift on its own.

 

[ARtraveler]

Totally agree with Mazo above.

The 1330 engine likes 3000-3500 rpms. I usually try to keep it in the 3500 range no matter what speed I am riding at. It is always ready to get up and go.

I also am a believer in the 1, 2, 3 mentioned above. Speeds in the 10's first, 20's second, 30's third, 40's fourth, etc., etc. I do not use 6th gear unless in am cruising the freeway at over 60 mph. The 1330 has a lower torque than the 998, and a roll on the throttle in its "happy" spot will send you quickly down the road.

The 998 engine is another animal. It likes to be kept in the 5500 range.

 

[johnv50]

Mine also likes to shift around 3500 for most normal riding, higher if I want to scoot.
I also find that 6th gear does not like anything below 3000, I use 6th mainly for highway speeds.

johnv

 

[JayBros]

Throw another log on the 3,000 - 3,500 pile although is the hooligan strikes I may go higher.

 

[T.P.]

Just a few comments here. Stock red line for the 1330 is 8100 rpm, adding a Dynojet PV3 adds 300 rpm, so bumps that up to 8400 rpms. And an ecu flash at Monster or Wick-it and they want to bump that up to 8600 or 9200 rpms. Carlton at Wick-It told me if I was not up shifting at 8100 I was sure missing out on a lot performance. I tried a couple of runs at 8100 rpm and its screaming.

T.P.

 

[Gwolf]

Just ride it and don't worry about exactly when to shift. It will come to you. If you don't lug the engine it will shift smooth enough and become a habit. I rarely even look at the tach. I shift by feel and sound most of the time. Don't over-think it........... just ride the heck out of it.

 

[Lew L]

Stage 1 ECU upgrade makes for a big grin, bigger grin as the revs climb. 3500 to 4000 is normal. 5500 to 6000 is where the fun really hits, 6500 to 7500 ---- Hauling the mail:yikes:

 

[Mazo EMS2]

Is "Hauling The Mail" the same as "Giddy Up"?.....LOL....

 

[Lew L]

Is "Hauling The Mail" the same as "Giddy Up"?.....LOL....

No --- it's more than that. Is your ECU flashed????? It's not the V-boost opening on my V-Max, It's not a nitrous hit ( but what is???) But it's MUCH better than stock with NO other mods.

Lew L

 

[RICZ]

Is an ECU flash a thing a dealer does, if not, who? How much should I expect to pay? Would a Stage 1 or 2 be recommended for a 1330 with a RLS cat delete and stock muffler?

 

[DaveMcC]

Thanks all for your feedback. Sounds like there's not much difference between the two engines in terms of shift rpm ranges. Would think the 1330 engine would operate at a little lower rpm's and we'll see. I know that my Twin shift ppoints rose closer to 5500 rpm as the engine broke in at around 10,000 miles and even now at 32,000 miles 6000 rpms turns out to be the sweet spot for smooth and powerful shifting.

 

[Lew L]

Is an ECU flash a thing a dealer does, if not, who? How much should I expect to pay? Would a Stage 1 or 2 be recommended for a 1330 with a RLS cat delete and stock muffler?

The dealers can't ( and won't)do the ECU flash ( but can do other things in the :spyder2:'s brain). Monster FI of Canada is under $400 for stage 1. Stage 2 may limit you to premium fuel. I have Stage 1 and it's great. Stage 2 is worth a few more HP and costs at least $100 more.

Lew L

 

[AeroPilot]

35 to 50% more torque below 4000 RPM than the twin engine-- 25% more torque above 4000 than the older twin, but you can pull and shift well anywhere above 3000.

Your choice.