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Shift Point for 1330 SE6

rcturner

New member
After 4 years of good service from my 2012 RT-L, I have upgraded to a 2014 RT-S. This was my dealers demo last year and only has 2100 miles on it. One piece of information I have not been able for find for this combination is shift points (RPM) for normal and ECO mode. Also, if the weather cooperates, I hope to have it home by this weekend. We had several inches of snow last night. Welcome to Minnesota spring.
 
1330 SHIFT - RT

You can shift as low as 2100 RPM's......But I prefer 2400-2500 ......It has way more torque at lower RPM's than the 998........Mike :bbq:
 
You can use ECO mode to tell you when to shift as a suggestion. I don't like it because it is a little on the "conservative" side. Gas savings, one to two mpg if you are lucky.

I now shift between 3000 - 3500 in all gears. A little higher on freeway entries. Each :ani29: seems to have its own sweet spot. When you find it, you can shift by "ear."

The 1330 SE6 will go very nice at lower rpm's as it is made to lug and go. I can run sixth gear above 50 mph and it is ready to go if I give the throttle a twist.
 
"Low & Slow" guy here! :D
I shift into 2nd and 3rd at 2000 (or so) rpm...
4th, 5th, and 6th get grabbed at 2500 rpm... :thumbup:
The bike doesn't mind the low revs, and I get into top gear before I reach 40mph.
 
Just for kicks I was playing with my 1330 RTL today in my driveway and it seems to have total lockup on the clutch at anything above 1300 RPMs at least in first.
 
2800-3,000 seems to work the best for me. I don't use ECO mode as I have determined it to be completely useless. You will hear varied opinions on this topic, so be prepared. It's best to just experiment until you find your own sweet spot.

Pam
 
Just because the 1330 ACE motor is a higher torque engine than its predecessor doesn't mean you should depend on it. It puts strain on the drive train to shift repeatedly at low RPMs. A good value is 3000 or higher.
 
Okay; I'll bite... WHY??? :dontknow:
"Strain on the driveline"; I don't think so...
Come up with something better.
Modern metallurgy has rendered this argument so... 1930s!
 
2800-3,000 seems to work the best for me. I don't use ECO mode as I have determined it to be completely useless. You will hear varied opinions on this topic, so be prepared. It's best to just experiment until you find your own sweet spot.

Pam
It's funny you say that because I had Eco mode on from the beginning then the other day I looked at the dash and noticed it wasn't on. Point is I had no idea it wasn't on and didn't ride or shift any differently. So I would have to agree its useless - unless maybe you do get another 1-2 mpg but wouldn't count on it.
 
Shift points in ECO mode are displayed by a arrow on the display that indicates the need to upshift.

ECO mode does make changes to the engine maps. If you are on the highway at say 65 mph with ECO either on or off, change it. You can easily hear and feel the engine change how it feels.

As for what rpm to shift in non ECO mode, we run a cat bypass and the engine pulls well and like a shift at 4200 to 4500. However it can be short-shifted at around 3500, but certainly is not pulling as hard.
 
I use to shift in the 2200 - 2600 range, but I now do it in the 3600 - 4400 range as it seems to shift smoother it that range. Most likely do to the fact I hit those RPM's rather quickly.
 
Okay; I'll bite... WHY??? :dontknow:
"Strain on the driveline"; I don't think so...
Come up with something better.
Modern metallurgy has rendered this argument so... 1930s!

your opinion, prove that I'm wrong. Any engine operated below its power curve creates additional strain on engine components.
 
WELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL

your opinion, prove that I'm wrong. Any engine operated below its power curve creates additional strain on engine components.
IMHO almost ALL combustion engines ( not diesels, steam engines, rocket ships etc ) are being operated below the POWER CURVE 85% of the time ......Unless you are racing .......Mike :bbq:
 
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Unless I'm mistaken, an internal combustion engine's power curve is a representation of the amount of torque it is putting out at at any given rpm. Therefore the engine is always somewhere on the power curve except when it is turned off. Of course when the engine is running but not in the rpm range where it is delivering maximum torque it is not putting out the maximum power that it was designed to produce but that does not necessarily mean that damage to the engine is occurring. I offer as an example locomotive diesel engines. They run for years and millions of miles within speed limits railroads are allowed and do this on the power curve but below the point wherein they must produce absolute maximum torque. Just a dumb guess. The term "behind the power curve" refers to the engine of a specific vehicle, namely an aircraft or a ship wherein if the engine is not putting out enough power the aircraft will not achieve enough speed to produce adequate lift for flight or in a ship enough power at the propellers to achieve steerage. Another dumb guess.
 
IMHO almost ALL combustion engines are being operated below the POWER CURVE 85% of the time ......Unless you are racing .......Mike :bbq:

This is the reason god made rev limiters...

As a kid, and even now when I ride my 250, leave the throttle pinned, little bit of clutch and grab the gear. The rev limiter will keep things safe. Don't even close the throttle...

The Spyder sounds bad ass with the converter removed, in a tunnel or passing through an overpass, 4500 revs. I'm not at all into a deep rumble, and under those conditions it has that triple sound...
 
your opinion, prove that I'm wrong. Any engine operated below its power curve creates additional strain on engine components.

If I bust something in the drivetrain; I'll be happy to sing your praises... :bowdown:

...But I'm not the least bit worried about having to limber-up my vocal chords. :D
 
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