Shift lever stripped out..... again! What's causing it to re occur?

[pegasus1300]

2012 Can Am RTL SE5. This is the 3rd or 4th time this has happened. The original shift lever lasted over 50,000m. In the last 20,000m I have replaced 3 of them. Something has changed but I don't know what. I am on a ride up in Richland Wash. right now trying to fix this so I can get home, but I would like to know what is causing this to re occur. Any ideas? TIA.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

2012 Can Am RTL SE5. This is the 3rd or 4th time this has happened. The original shift lever lasted over 50,000m. In the last 20,000m I have replaced 3 of them. Something has changed but I don't know what. I am on a ride up in Richland Wash. right now trying to fix this so I can get home, but I would like to know what is causing this to re occur. Any ideas? TIA.

Well proir to 15 the front spockets weren't a problem .... Now even BR admits something is wrong .... I hope the FIX is better than the one they came up for the DESS module :-/... jmho .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[pegasus1300]

I don't know that this is BRP's problem as I have not seen very many shift lever failures on RT SE's over the 12 years they have been in production. Something has changed on my Spyder that is causing this. I am looking for ideas as to what that could be that is causing this to happen.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I don't know that this is BRP's problem as I have not seen very many shift lever failures on RTSE over the 12 years they have been in production. Something has changed on my Spyder that is causing this. I am looking for ideas as to what that could be that is causing this to happen.

Well 3rd. or 4th time it has happened if it isn't something to do with BRP . _ then who ????? you - ???? ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Peter Aawen]

Just thinking out loud here, but I wonder if the shift solenoids have moved or something else has been moved that means the shift lever is being pushed too far or too hard one way (or both??) so that it eventually (or even quickly??) strips out due to the excess pressure that'd entail being applied on every gear change?? :dontknow:

Or maybe when you fit the new shift lever you're not getting it clocked exactly square onto the correct splines, meaning it's going to be subject to something similar ^^ in the way of abnormal pressure on every shift?? :dontknow:

ORR, is it possible that the spline on the shaft itself is either damaged or partially filled with metal abraded off the softer shift lever, enough that the splines in every new lever that goes on are immediately compromised & so wear quicker?? :dontknow:

Like I said, that lot's really just thinking out loud, but maybe there's something useful in those thoughts?!? Worth a look?? Good Luck! :cheers:

 

[Isopedella]

Loan a drill from somewhere and put a bolt through, im picking that will get you mobile. If you can check out those shift solenoid positions, ha wherever they are as I wouldn't have a clue and not frighted to admit it. Doon dare somewhere I guess.

 

[pegasus1300]

Mike
"..then who ????? you - ????.." I have been thinking along those lines

Peter
"Just thinking out loud here, but I wonder if the shift solenoids have moved or something else has been moved that means the shift lever is being pushed too far or too hard one way (or both??) so that it eventually (or even quickly??) strips out due to the excess pressure that'd entail being applied on every gear change?? "

I don't see how that could happen and don't know how I would test for it.


"maybe when you fit the new shift lever you're not getting it clocked exactly square onto the correct splines, meaning it's going to be subject to something similar ^^ in the way of abnormal pressure on every shift??"

Anything is possible but I did check closely


"is it possible that the spline on the shaft itself is either damaged or partially filled with metal abraded off the softer shift lever, enough that the splines in every new lever that goes on are immediately compromised & so wear quicker??

I had not considered this as a possibility as I am dealing with a soft metal on a hardened shaft. Still I went out and checked and yes the shaft splines are damaged up near the seal just before it goes into the case. When I get it home I will see if I can file them straight with a metric thread file. The spacing on the splines is the same as a 1.25/mm screw.


Now I just have to get it home. My wife is with me in her car with a 1500 towing limit (newer Chevy Equinox). Does anybody know if UHaul has trailer that will fit a Spyder that is that light? Any other suggestions?

 

[trikermutha]

I am picturing one like on the Harley. The dam bolt would loosen up over time and cause the lever to get loose on the splines. Now just guessing yours is about the same. Make sure the bolt that you tighten to the splines is tight and use some thread locker. You don't want any movement on the splines when done. Oh and don't over tighten that bolt it could snap off while making sure its tight. Like I said I am just guessing its the same setup as my Harley was?

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Yo Paul. Once you get home and things get sorted out, I’d love to see a picture of it as is, before you start taking things apart. Can’t help you about a trailer. Sorry. Your too far away to come get you. Good luck.

 

[LongIsland]

U-Haul trailers are too heavy for your vehicle. They're are 1,260 lbs and heavier. Try reaching out to a US Spyder Ryders chapter perhaps they could help with the trailer.

 

[PapaHotel]

To get home, Try wrapping the shaft with Teflon tape. It will take up some of the over clearance, and prevent further rubbing wear.

 

[pegasus1300]

I am picturing one like on the Harley. The dam bolt would loosen up over time and cause the lever to get loose on the splines. Now just guessing yours is about the same. Make sure the bolt that you tighten to the splines is tight and use some thread locker. You don't want any movement on the splines when done. Oh and don't over tighten that bolt it could snap off while making sure its tight. Like I said I am just guessing its the same setup as my Harley was?

Well not quite the same but almost. I had the same thoughts so after the first time I bought a longer bolt and put a nylock nut on the back end to prevent that. It didn't seem to help. BTW Yamaha Ventures and RSV did the same thing.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

........
Now I just have to get it home. My wife is with me in her car with a 1500 towing limit (newer Chevy Equinox). Does anybody know if UHaul has trailer that will fit a Spyder that is that light? Any other suggestions?

This is a bit complicated but ..... look at renting a U-haul CAR DOLLY. .... you will have the get the belt off, but not the windshield ...... first ask U-haul how wide that dolly is and can it be narrowed to the Spyders front wheel base if necessary ?.... the dollies are pretty cheap to rent .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Paul. The problem with the whole setup is not the fact that the bolt comes loose. The problem is that you can’t get enough pinching force on the slot by using the internal threads in the arm in the first place. That allows movement between the arm and shaft, gradually wearing away at the splines in the arm.

When you get the new arm, DRILL OUT the internal threads, put in the longer bolt, use a nut, washer and blue lock tight to squeeze the slot closed. It will then be so tight it will feel like it’s welded on there.

Three other hints. When installing the arm, align the dot on the end of the shaft with the slot. Use a bolt diameter large enough so that it is captured by the groove in the shaft. And don’t put the arm on backwards.

 

[pegasus1300]

Has anybody had any experience with Mike's U-Haul Dolly suggestion? I know it has been put forward a few times but usually discouraged, tho I don't remember why.

Doug, Thank you for the offer.

I do have friends in this area through the group I ride with, but I am reluctant to put them out at this point. I do have an idea which I will tell you about after I test it out. In the meantime thank you all for your kind thoughts and good wishes, prayers etc.

 

[trikermutha]

I would think you would have to lock the steering if using a car dolly.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I would think you would have to lock the steering if using a car dolly.

NOPE - the front tires when on the Dolly are strapped & ratcheted down TIGHT , they can't move. AND if the steering is locked, I'm sure it will be damaged. ....... Mike :thumbup:

 

[pegasus1300]

Doug you are right it is not a bolt tightness problem, the bolt really only locates the shifter on the shaft. In order to get it to squeeze tighter I would have to cut thru the top of the shifter along the line of the factory slot otherwise there is no place for the movement to create the squeeze.I do have the shifter located properly.

So here is the idea one of my Temple Rider friends came up with - JB Weld it in place. I went to a hardware store and got some steel JB Weld, super cleaned the shaft and the shifter and welded that sucker on there. It has now cured for 12hrs. I put the shifter rod back on this morning and have already gone for a ride. :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: It work! It's not a very elegant solution, maybe not even a prefered solution, but it works and right now I am grateful I can drive it closer to Utah, maybe all the way home. I have relatives in Tremonton, Salt Lake City that have trucks and trailers if I need them. Once I get past Provo I am almost home and can leave it somewhere while I go get my truck and trailer. So I am happy for now and very thankful ray: for the help and inspiration I received. You all have given me much help and Doug and Mike and others have always been there with ideas when I needed them. Thank you all.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I think there are a lot of JB Welded shift arms out there. Last winter I went looking for an aftermarket replacement but the thread sizes were different. This spring I replaced mine as a preventative and modified it the way I described to you. Drilling out the threads in the arm, and using the bolt and nut to pinch it together worked out. I could feel it squeezing together right away. For whatever reason, there’s a lot more pinching force on the slot that way. It’s solid but…, so is yours right now. Good luck.

 

[fatboy]

sounds like a heavy foot on down shifts